Drive plate/cover interference ????
 

And the fun begins ...
At this point I'm not going to make a judgement on what I bought ...yet, but a running GY6 this isn't. The flywheel looking drive plate in the transmission is grinding against the cover. It's missing one vane, no sign of it inside, but it has obviously been apart before. lots of filings from the cover and edges of the vanes. Given this is a small valve head engine, I don't think i'm going to put much effort into it. Obviously something isn't right. Doesn't appear to be a bent crank. I pulled the plug and the inside of the pulley stays even with the side of the engine as i turn it. maybe the outer portion is bent. The yerf manual shows a non-vaned plate, could this be an aftermarket piece that doesn't fit or is it just bent??

Pics show the drive, the cover and the driven/clutch, which is also heavily blued--normal--coated??? or is this from running waaaayy too hot?

The second GY6--the one for $90 at least is a 4-bolt valve cover type. It has a 6 pole stator and I'm thinking i'm better off swapping the stators and installing this engine in the Yerf. Looks like it's time to buy a gy6 flywheel puller. Like everyone else, i just learned that a normal one just doesn't work.

Looks like they ran it without the gasket. Also they could have shimmed the variator for more top end. The clutch looks hot, check for glazing on the pads.

it had the gasket on it. I'm thinking this engine is one for the shelf. Grabbed my old park crank removal today, which works the same as the gy6 tool, of course, it's just slightly undersized for the flywheel threads ( .

Well, after a rather depressing morning thinking about this pile of nuts, bolts and wiring in my garage I'm happy to report some success. The Pic is of "1 am GY6 Hell"

Getting myself home-schooled in GY6.

Took apart the variator. When the PO last worked on it, the rollers apparently fell out of position and were left that way when assembled, which forced the spacer tube outwards and prevented everything from being bolted up tight. At first I thought there was an extra roller, turns out one of the roller pockets was completely full of old cobwebs and so crusty it looked like dirty metal--I couldn't tell there was a pocket there until i poked it. before, the inner half of the pulley sat about 1/4-in. outside of the case, now it's inside the case and there's no grinding on the cover.

Took the clutch apart --wheee that's a fun spring!-- clutch pads and outer bell surface look ok. Both the driver and driven had a buildup of rust where the belt was sitting, cleaned those up.

Question ---how tight should the belt be? it's a 743, I had to put it on the clutch, then roll it onto the spacer followed by installing the vaned outer plate. I had to work it on the spacer, that's how tight it was. I take it there is no belt adjustment on these???


Drained the old oil, which while not milky, seems to have water in it. Oil plug threads are pretty shot.

I put it in the bare chassis, wired it up, rigged my tec fuel tank to it and jumped the solenoid ...it runs! 1 down, 1 to go.

It still needs a solenoid (seller should be sending me the one he had on order) oil plug, variator fan plate, mounting bushings and more TLC. Carter is a dirty boy!

The belt should be as you desctibed. You need to replace the rollers with lighter ones and also the torque spring. Which spring and what weight rollers will depend on terrain and type of driving. If running a lot of steep hills I would also suggest clutch springs as well.

TOM

FWIW, both engines have 14g rollers, can't tell what spring, likely the original. They're just plain black.

Sounds like stock to me.

TOM