Longer CVT belt?
 

Hi guys. Doing some research, I found a performance pulley (clutch side) that when used with a 115mm variator and his longer belt it's supposed to increase bottom and top end performance.

Makes sense if the pulley opens up a bit more, and the longer belt reaches higher on the top of the pulley.

Has anyone else tried this set up yet?

Do you think he's having a custom belt made? Or using one of the other readily available belts?

743 20 30 stock GY6 150 short case

757 20 30 new belt

757 17 28 alternative

759 21.8 30 alternative

And I found this one today.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bando-CVT-Be...item35b8358172

750 19.5 28

No one?????

Everyone is using the 743 20 30 belt?

You were looking into this a long time ago aye xlint?? If I can find a belt I can afford Ive been thinking of trying this. Just goes to show ya x. If you are patient the answers will come.

If this pulley is used in my short case will it fit or will I need a bigger casing???...cvt case/cover.

Unsure of the pulley that you speak of. We are talking about the Motorio Performance Pulley. It fit in mine but it scraped just a tad until it wore itself in. Since then it has been just fine. And it caused no damage.

See, and you said you couldn't find a bigger belt.

You didn't look hard enough.

When I spoke with Tom about this, he feared the larger belt may lead to slipping. The lightweight scooters might fare better with the longer belt, but our buggies might not.

I would LOVE for someone to try it out though...

Going through old threads.... Has anyone tried a different belt? I know my standard belt doesn't go to the top.

Two things will cause this. One being too light rollers and second is engine runs out of power band before belt gets to top.

Thanks for your response. I'm running 12g sliders, 7000 RPM max.

Those 12g. sliders are equivalent to 10g. rollers. You should have good climbing ability but other than that a lack there of. Have you checked valve adjustment and compression PSI. These engines are designed for scooters 100 lbs. wet, driving one wheel vs your 400 lb. buggy pulling much larger wheels with a 20 lb. axle. So peak power is a necessity before even tuning the CVT.

Valves are at.004. A12 cam. P&P head with matched intake and exhaust. It has a new 58.5mm jug, piston, and rings with 21 hours on them. Right now I'm running the stock exhaust. I bought one from BD, but it doesn't fit a Crossfire so the hunt is on for a good exhaust. Larger metal intake (forgot the size) and 26mm pumper carb. It has a new 58.5mm jug, piston, and rings with 21 hours on them. It tops out at just under 40mph @ 7000 RPM.

In the CVT I'm now using a Gates powerlink 743-20-30 belt, yellow clutch and torque springs, and a 115mm variator

Have not got a compression reading nor have I read the plug to adj the jet size.

I keep it at my brother's beach house a couple of hours away. Last weekend I rebuilt the transmission with 13/40 gears and replaced all of the bearings, 3 of which were were bad.

What do you mean by "peak power is a necessity before even tuning the CVT"?

It seems to have decent power for what it is. It hauls 2 adults all over the beach including the soft "sugar" sand. Slows way down going over the dunes, but it makes it. Once I jet it and find an exhaust, that will be it unless you have some other ideas.

The CVT does not create any power. The engine creates the power the CVT distributes the power through out RPM range. The lighter the rollers the more RPM it takes to move those rollers up the ramp. Top HP peaks at 7500 rpm which means you stop making power @7500 rpm, but those are bench specs. when you add the axle wheels and weight of buggy you are more realistically around 5 hp @ 7500 rpm. Dunes eat up a lot of HP as compared to hard pavement. Bottom line is you get that engine to its peak power than you tune the cvt. Example ; you have a completely stock new engine producing peak power and tune the cvt. That tune changes when you improve peak engine power.

I understand what you mean. As the engine is now the only thing left to do is find a decent exhaust and then jet the carb.

With your setup all you need to do is the following. Tools needed are hacksaw, 1" hole saw, wooden dowel to snugly fit end pipe. First remove if equipped chrome end cap, using hacksaw cut exit pipe as close to muffler as possible, knock wood dowel into remaining exit pipe to use as pilot, using 1" hole saw cut out end which will leave a hole slightly larger than 1" hole in end of muffler. If you know an electrician ask for a short piece of 1" conduit. Put your end cap back on if equipped and then tap that piece of conduit into end of muffler just enough not going any further than thickness of muffler. Remove end cap if equipped and mig or gas weld new larger exit pipe. This reduces the restriction greatly for cheap. You can also replace by cutting off old muffler and replacing with a FMF slip on muffler. Also where the header pipe bolts to head remove the pipe and you will notice a ring welded to end of pipe which seals pipe to crush gasket in head. This ring is welded on the inside and will look like bird s#!t on a metal pole. You will want to grind the globs of weld using a die grinder with a stone on end to smooth out this weld which also is a restriction.

Had pretty good luck in the past just taking the chrome cap off the muffler and drilling about six 1/4 inch holes around the factory exit just in the shell of the muffler end , then putting the chrome cap back on to hide it. Now that was on chinese scooters and atvs but they all pretty much have the same muffler. Might start with one or 2 holes depending on how loud you are worried about it being, then going up from there.

You most likely find any commercial construction site and just ask the electrician for a 2 inch long piece of one inch EMT. You ask us for conduit most of the time we will give you IMC or rigid, while it'll work it's thick and overkill. We generally don't save anything under a few feet long anyways. If you weld on it make sure you sand the zinc off it first. We don't need anybody getting zinc poisoning on here. If you can't find any local hollar at me and I'll dig around and see what I can find but my scrap is drying up since going out on disability.

What a great idea to shove a dowel into the hole to guide the hole saw! Unfortunately my muffler's guts have come loose and rattle like crazy. I would have to cut it open and remove the loose baffles then perform your method which would make it to LOUD. If I can find one with a larger header that will fit a Crossfire, that is the way I would like to go. Any idea where I could find a replacement?

I have Hammerhead, TK, and Eastside exhausts which will not fit the crossfire. If I remember correctly the shock is in the way. Your best bet would be the FMF slip on muffler.