Yerf dog 3203 10" frame stretch project.
 

Decided to lengthen our current go cart untill we can settle on a buggy.

We have an old Yerf dog 3203 mostly stock. Since i'm pushing 6'4" it's not comfortable riding with the kids.

After a few fit test measurements I decided to start out with 10" extension plans figuring if it turns out to be too long it can easily be shortened.

Cut floor off first, decided it was shot
http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8e1ea92b.jpg

First cut. I used a regular cut off wheel.
http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/...ps52903a85.jpg

Two piece go cart.
http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7a0db061.jpg

Done for today, more to come.

looks good.it would be a good idea to weld the roll bars at all points on the buggy wile your at it.that would help to make the buggy stiffer.good luck

Thanks,

I'll keep that in mind, I also thought about adding a few extra bars in the roll bar since it will also be 10" longer.

Got all the slugs and tubes cut to size. I plan on drilling holes in the frame to plug weld the slugs along with welding at the seams.

Slug's to be used.
http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/...ps535e0d03.jpg

Held together with ratchet straps. Sat in it, I think 10" will be perfect. Obviously the steering wheel is to far from the seat. That will be adjusted once the frame work is done.
http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/...psa26acbd4.jpg

Full mock up....Keep in mind nothing welded yet just strapped together.
http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/...pse11e325f.jpg

Next will be plug welding the slugs.... all 14 of them.

Stretched Limo, comes to mind... add some 20" front tires, 22" rears, oh yeah! I'm liking this project.

I would add a bit of webbing in there but it looks good. I figure this aint your first time working with metal

def need diagonial braces added
as you go along

very cool........

The problem with these Yerfs is the front tire size is about as big as you can go without major mods, bigger tires will hit the frame when turning. 20s up front would be awesome.

Yeah, extra webbing has crossed my mind a few times. Especially since the cart is going to be overloaded most of the time. Combined driver/rider weight will be about 270 lbs. You're right about my working with metal, I work in a steel mill and do a little welding.

I finished up all the plug welds on the slugs and decided to go ahead and start the steering shaft stretch. I'll post some more pics later on today.

Not to change the subject but I picked up another cart yesterday, it's exactly the same as the 3203 except it's yellow (3205). No plans on stretching it, it's for my Wife and younger Son.

Could you do some wheel spacers on the front? When a guy uses words like plug weld he probly has an idea whats what

Thought about spacing out the wheels but didn't want to affect the steering geometry. Maybe stretching out the control arms, along with the tie rods might be the answer. I haven't really got that far in the project yet, something to think about down the road if I go with larger front tires.

Frame slugs plugged
http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/...psb90245bd.jpg

Decided to work on the steering wheel early, chopped in half and will be adding a 7" extension. The steering hoop will stay the same, the wheel and shaft will be sticking further out.
Next the frame will be going back together. Still haven't decided where to add the extra support, maybe you guys could give me a few ideas.
http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/...ps06c96254.jpg

And here's a pic of the Yerf we picked up yesterday.
http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/...ps69d035bd.jpg

Getting ready to weld the steering shaft.
http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4242dc85.jpg

Steering extension completed.
http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/...ps21882f87.jpg

I've had this laying around the garage for years, it's a steel door from an electronics cabinet. I'll be using it for the new floor....it's slightly thicker than what was there.
http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/...ps854bcfed.jpg

Need ideas on the extra supports for the lower frame. I painted the yellow lines where I think might be good reinforcement. I want to try to keep it simple yet safe. Let me know.
http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/...psacbbd8dd.jpg

As far as progress goes, everything except the roll bars have been welded, welds just need to be cleaned up.

I cut the new floor from the door.

Installed the longer steering shaft. With it being 7" longer it feels a little flexy, I believe it'll be fine....If not i'll extend the steering hoop.

I also ordered a set of oil filled coilovers from Surplus center, they were less than $12 each. Figured i give 'em a try, if they work out good i'll replace all the mechanical shocks on both carts.

The stock down bar right next to the seat and the one that runs from the pan around for the stearing... Notch a tube to go from the lower corner on both and up to the center of the upper bar. That way as the frame flex's down in the center it will transfer the pressure down and into the cage. Then if you got the steel run from the center ,or close to it, of the top bar and run one up to the windsheild area.

looking good

Thanks

Sounds like a good plan.

Something like this?
http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/...psbf180b09.jpg

add that bracing will help

And sorta remove, reshape, and soften the radius on that lower frame rail....then some bigger wheels and tires should go in there, maybe.

kliff is right if you trim the lower rails
you will get more room for bigger front tires

That was my next ideas guy's. Cut out that bend and put some big meats on it.

Thats basicly what I was thinking. That way regardless of the impact angle it will transfer the weight to another area of the frame

I'll save the front tire upgrade for later, I'll start a new project thread for it.

For right now I want to finish the frame stretch and do some riding.

Thanks Chuck for the frame advise. I do work with metal, just not go-cart chassis design.

Stay tuned, new pics soon.

Nice work :)

Thanks Rarerat!

Ok, just about completed the frame work except for the extra supports and some finish sanding to make the seams blend better before painting.

http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7f43d106.jpg

Here's a good shot of the extended steering.
http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0fbf3a5b.jpg

Rolls bars and where I might be adding extra cross bars.
http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/...ps904e2069.jpg

Next on the list is Chuck's idea for frame support, then i'll be installing the floor.

coming along good

I would add either aa lateral support going forward or back on the roof. I know I'm looking at it more like a race machine but week points bother me. Maybe from the back yellow line back towards the seats. Notched into the down bar in the main hoop

Looks great though.

Sounds like a headache bar, i'll have to take a closer look when I get home. This is by no means a race machine. I doubt if it'll see anything above 30mph or air time..... It'll mostly be rode in the woods and on powerline trails.

I also like the idea of being able to remove the roll bar if needed.

I think (not sure yet) i'll stick with the 2 or 3 cross bars. If it does roll the impact will be transfered over to the other bar then to the side bar idea you came up with.

Thanks for the input!

Started on the frame supports tonight, got all the cuts on one side finished and taped in place. Quite pleased with the turnout, kinda gives it a buggy look, thanks again Chuck.

My trusty Harbor freight tubing notcher....Worth every penny.
http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/...psa6459665.jpg

http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9364e532.jpg

http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0ba91115.jpg

http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/...ps36a4ca2a.jpg

Awsome man. That should really take care of frame flex right there. I'm gonna get me one of them notchers as well. Not bad for the price

Thanks!

Yeah the notcher comes in handy, makes cutting & welding tubes 10 times faster.

I was just on the Harbor Freight website and noticed the 6.5 clones are going for $110.

That's almost free, I eyeball them things every time I go there.

It's coming along......Got the driver's side frame supports welded in place, finished cutting and installed the floor & started on the roll bars.

Once the floor was welded I decided to take it for a spin. It feels like a different go cart. It's smoother on the bumps, overall handling has improved, especially hard cornering.

Chuck, I could tell a difference when cornering left & right since only one side has the frame supports. On pavement right turns felt very ridgid, left turns almost had a sloppy/tipsy feel.
Seems backwards since I was sitting on the left side. I couldn't visually see the frame flexing but I could definitely tell a difference.

Just need to finish the pass side supports, weld the roll bars, clean all the welding and paint. I plan to stay with the same color red or close as possible.

http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/...psd4494698.jpg

http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6b5b7bf2.jpg

Good deal. Get that other side done and she should be good to go. Top notch work man

you are doing a great job
post pics when finished

in that last pic you work makes the factory bar at the bottom left look cheap and flimsy. nice work

Thanks!

I've been unable to work on the cart since my last post due to my busy schedule, but i'll be back at it tomorrow night.

The HF 6.5s dropped to $99, couldn't resist, I bought one.............

Finished up all the extra supports, took the seat off, cleaned everything......time for paint.


http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/...ps53c0789b.jpg

http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1c374d70.jpg

(If anyone is wondering why the gas tank is mounted up on the back rack, it's because the motor is not the original. It was removed from a Murray Kilowatt which has a different shaped tank which caused it to hit the frame behind the seat when the suspension was compressed.)

it realy looks good

I bet thats the strongest part on the whole ride. Top notch work brother.

Beautiful work man! Should be stronger than original.

Now, go find a YD 3206 SpiderBox, and start modding. Bettin' you could join the Cult, and really fit in well doing it!

Thanks for all the compliments!

The frame feels very ridgid. With the extra length and strength it handles 10 times better than before. For some odd reason I can hard corner this thing at full speed without it coming up on two wheels anymore. It'll still lift one of the rears, the front stays planted.

I've been looking for a pair of Spiderboxes for some time now. They're either more than 4 hours away, priced too high or in bad shape. I'm still checking CL and Ebay every now and then.


I'll start painting it Monday night, I'll just be painting the bare tubes and floor, not the whole cart. Most of the bars will have padding anyway.

I'd like to put a set of rear fenders on it, something to keep the mud spray down. I'm thinking some kind of plastic I can mold myself. I've seen body kits for these carts somewhere, forgot where.

Got around to painting it. Turned out nice, almost looks like it was made this way.

I used Rustoleum sunshine red. It was very close to the original red.

http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9523510d.jpg

http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6505cf6b.jpg

Here's a comparison to our other Yerf, they used to be exactly the same cart. Check out the extra leg room.

http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9dc15f7e.jpg

Still need to add grip tape to the floor, bar padding and run the kill switch wire.

looking good as usual

is it complete yet or are you still finishing up?

Post some new photos,looks awesome.I have the same cart I'm planning on changing some things in future just bought it a few weeks ago.I'm thinking starting with the motor and doing a Batman mod.

It is complete....For now, as far as the frame stretch goes. I'll post some pics up in a few days, very busy with work right now.

I have rode it a few times. I've added grip tape to the floor and bar padding to the roll cage top and sides. It's very comfortable, more than enough leg room.

Thanks! What kind of plans do you have for yours?

I think my next upgrade will be the clone motor I recently bought. I'll have to do some rear swing arm work before I can start.

Yerf really did a poor job on the engine mount design, it's needs to be beefed up. Both of my 3203/3205s have bent mounts due to engine torque, that's with the tec 6.5, Not bad, but enough to notice, maybe .15 -.20 out.

keep posting pics

I thought about the clone but a motor guy said no replacement parts carb etc.I'm still thinking Batman mod but I think I'm going to start fresh with a new motor.already pulled old one off bought a new clutch,new chain,new belt.there just sitting in a bag waiting on my decision on a motor.I can't decide looking for one with least mod needed to work.if I had all your equipment would be no problem actually looked at a gasless MIG welder at harbour freight but wasn't to sure about the gasless setup and it was 110 the two together scares me maybe if was 220 .motor choices so far a briggs 8 HP 3/4 shaft a honda 6.5 robin 7 HP I could mod the Honda the most,the briggs would almost be a direct fit ,and people say the robin motor best off all.I'm still in the air but winters here so I'm in no hurry,maybe ill get a welder so I could go wild like you lol.

I figured $110 for the 6.5 clone with a 15 month no questions asked complete motor replacement was a good deal. The clones are alot better than the tecs, powerwise and reliability.

Be sure to reinforce the swing arm if you do decide to go with the larger engines.

For all the welding on this project I used a 110 volt lincoln pro core 125 wire fed welder with .030 flux core wire (gasless), it can be used as a MIG but works fine for projects like this without gas. It can easily handle the work, I had the power setting on low the whole time.

This is the welder I have. I picked it up about a year ago. I also have a AC/DC lincoln stick welder I used for big jobs.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_2961-1703-K2...ntity_sold%7C1

As far as tools all I really used was a Harbor Freight tube notcher, hand grinder with cutoff, sanding & grinding wheels and your usual basic hand tools

Coming soon, maybe tonight.

welder
 

Thanks for the reply I'm glad to hear that the gasless welder works ill have to look into getting one.I wonder how well the one at harbour freight would work? I went to look at clone motor this weekend there was a guy there that owned a small engine repair shop that warned me against getting one said not very good.I have a guy with a cr125 motor for 250 but I don't know if rear axle would withstand the torque.how much of a difference is the clone motor just more torque or speed also?

Another opinion- Tecumsehs vs honda clones
I've found the Tec's have more torque the clones since they are so easy to remove the governor makes them faster rpm wise. My kid's have raced both engines side by side and there isn't enough difference to brag about. Cost of the clone (very cheap) kills the Tec's all day long. I'm one of the few that dissagrees with the reliabilty of the two. My Tec's have run circles around my clones for length of life,starting ability,over-heating,ect... (excluding the only Robin engine we have that never let's us down)

Ok so I guess a clone wouldn't really be worth it then if reading right.I would just like a little more power and maybe 40 mph right now with tec motor lucky if it does 25mph.so how about a briggs 8 HP has 3/4 shaft any experience with those motors.

I used to have a HF 110 wire fed welder about 5 yrs ago. It worked, but not well. It spattered alot and the power seemed to fluctuate while welding, then the wire would jam every other time I used it. I ended up selling it at a yard sale for $50. Bought the Lincoln and never looked back, it's smooth as silk.

Do some research on the clones, go thru the forums. Alot of people are very happy with them, some are not. I really can't say since mine is still in the box, but i'll find out sometime soon.

A cr125 is alot of power & speed for that cart. You would need to basically redesign the swing arm. Do it right and you'd have one badass Yerf.

As far as more speed with the clone, with the 6.5 is probably about the same, but it's a new motor for $100. I'm really not looking for high power and speed since I ride with my 5 & 2 yr old.

The larger clones will obviously be faster. Check this kid out on you tube, he put a 13hp HF on his 3203 Yerf.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NFxGif61PsA

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bdksNsjc0tY

Here are the final pics. Project is complete. It's now called a Yerf 3203HD-XL.

Padding and grip tape.
http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0ca9bef1.jpg

The cart fits snug on the 4x8 trailer. (HF special- $209)
http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/...psb21b209f.jpg

This is how I extended the throttle/brake rod. Just threaded rod with a coupling.
http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/...psb3516e2d.jpg

The end result with the oversized operator. The seat is forward about an inch, with the seat all the way back I can't drop the hammer as easy.
http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2b33fa53.jpg

Total cost was about $30 since I already had all the metal.

Bought 2 spools of welding wire, 1 can of primer, 2 cans of paint, 5 pieces of pipe insulation & a small roll of grip tape.

Thanks for all the compliments! Any questions, feel free to ask.

it realy came out well.

Wow that looks awesome,now what's your address so I can send you mine lol.you've really got some skills now its time for the wifes.

3203HD-XL Video action.
 

Here's a short video of the go cart in action. It corners much better making left turns...:lol:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XiP_JS5u7sk

you need a passenger in it

Really nice job Kool video.

Tom

I know, I had a hard time finding volunteers to ride with me.

I'll Bet you did.
Tom

In your last picture on post #40, are those the coil-overs you posted the link for? How do they do? I'm thinking about getting some for my Punisher, just curious if they bolted right up and if they feel any different. Great looking cart build, you are the man, I wish I had all the fabrication tools you do, I love to do fab work!

Thanks for the compliments,

Yes they are & yes they bolted right up. They're about 1/4" away from the side wall on the tire because the diameter is bigger than stock.

They ride better than the bouncy springs it had. I could tell they dampen from the second I tried them. They work good for riding dirt roads and small bumps. If you plan on jumping the cart i'd go with something better.....Maybe raptor shocks

Bitter sweet news
 

My 3203HD-XL experience is over. Someone offered me $500 for it.:(:)

Not bad since I had less than $100 invested...

Maybe it's time to do some frame work with the Yellow 3205.:D

You may have found a new calling.

Tom

That is so awsome, nice job. I have been wanting to widen our baja 150 2006 buggy red. Our 2004 blue 150 dune is 46 inch wide and the 2006 red dune is 41. So when two people sit side by side in the red buggy it is tight. I will post pictures of the project when I start to widen the roll bars, the floor pan I will leave the same. I just bought a welder 6 months ago a Hobart 125 ez wire feed flux wire. I got tired of paying to fix the cracks that always happen on a rough ride. Thanks for the pics it has modivated me.

That was an awsome job. I have to admit, when I started reading this post, I really didnt see it ending up turning out as great as it did. Outstanding Job brother!

Hope your project goes well, you have one of the best welders for the job. Looking forward to your thread.

I agree with you, I was alittle surprised how nice it turned out.

Thanks for the compliments!

I'm back,

Just noticed all the pics are gone and the interest this thread has received!

Glad to see this project may have been helpful to others.

I've started putting the pics back up, hopefully they stay this time.

:drive:

wow, long time! I was wondering how this turned out/held up, but it looks like it went to a new home.

Everything is backup (pics). Any info or more pics of the build just let me know. Send me a PM on here, I'll check back every week or so.

Gary.

Its still being used as of a few months ago, it's a little beat up due to a few rollovers and being stored outside but the frame is straight as an arrow. The new owner said he thinks it's due for a new motor.

Crazy old fart!!!
 

I know this sounds crazy, but I've been thinking of doing something like this to my daughters little 110/gk17 for about 2 years now and seeing this post just made me start boiling the old brain bucket again! as if I don't have enough to do!!!:ack:

Go for it, make sure to start a thread on the build!:biggthumpup:

future thoughts
 

I'll hym and haw about it for awhile, but if I do it wouldn't be til next winters garage incarceration!

I see that this is an old thread, but I did want to thank the guy who wrote this, and those who offered advice. It has given me the push I needed to stretch the frame of my own 3203 that has been collecting dust for years. I have already bought a new Predator engine, axle, sprockets, bearings, ect for this project. I'll start a new thread and post pictures of the project as it goes along and how to resolve the little issues like the shorter crankshaft of the Predator to help others as much as this thread helped me.

Sorry for the long response time.... Did you get a chance to stretch your kart? I recently picked up a American Sportworks Black Widow 3171 for $300. I bought it for my younger son who is now 8. Very nice Kart, pretty quick for just a 4 horse motor.

Here's a video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sRQOsiOS5DA

awesome job! i just recently picked a 3203 up my self.. what shocks did you get and do you happen to have a link for them? thanks in advance

If I had those skills I'd be working on a 4-seater conversion right about now!

Glad to see this post is still alive! Hope it helped someone over the years!