the little yerf dog restore
 

well since I cant keep my dam eyes off craigslist I cam home with a yerf dog once again. 15 min ride around the block and $120 scooped it up. Already trying to research some parts to restore it back to shape. When I was 16 my first kart was a yerf, so kinda cool my sons first kart will be a yerf. Even though my son is still very young I figured this will last him till hes at least 12. Also figured if he doesn't like it once restored can always sell it.

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lol love how my dog is checking out the yerf dog. Getting a small parts list together.

1. New front wheels and tires
2. New seat
3. The cables are intact
4. What to do for a engine and tq converter, probably do a harbor freight special
5. Need to clean or replace drum brake
6. need a new chain

Going to go over the whole frame and weld all the joints and beef up the spindles. The floor pan I didn't know was rotted out because he had the old seat over the floor and didn't realize it was like that till I got there but I will be able to find a piece to weld in. The paint is actually not in bad shape at all which is nice. Don't want to go over $500 in total which I think I should be right around that mark.

Cool Beans , I'm sure you know - BMI , BMI , BMI , and BMI . I think they have that seat also . You know , the funny thing about that band break setup : The 3 I had ( and they got ridden alot ) came my way with about 3/16" of lining on them , never wore out , and surprisingly did a pretty good job ( better than what I would have expected ) Never had to replace one .:cheers:

If you go the 212cc Predator route , look for a junk Tecumseh ( maybe the guy has the original ) as your gonna need a short section of the 5/8 keyed crankshaft to make a spacer for the driver clutch . The Predator has a shorter crankshaft .

Crap I did not know that, he gave me the engine but it was toast so i didn't bother taking it.

Well if you can still get it you should , trust me , could explain now , but would be a long drawn out post , I'll do , just not at the moment , 10/4 .

Oh boy, the 3203..... My nephew's squeaks like crazy when it's moving.

I didn't need to steal anything from the Tec motor when I did the Predator conversion. Pretty sure i just elongated the mounting holes and moved the engine over a tad. It's been a while now, so please forgive me.

Also added a second band brake on the other side because the one didn't fair so well when it got wet.

Pay attention to the swing arm. Mine was getting pretty warped where it mounted to the frame. (Torque twist at take off)

Also look over the frame, mine had some cracks that needed welding.

Lastly, the steering knuckles bend pretty easily. I added some gussets to mine to give them some strength.

xlint after I bought it I found the model # is a yerf dog 30034. I will most likely go with the predator 212cc. As for the brakes il have to find out once in use. The tubing seems thin and small but I know its for kids not adults so less weight. Ill probally take the cage off and well some supports around the swing arm and any other week points. The steering knuckles are thin as **** and those will aslo get beefed up. Keep the tips coming.

Parts are ordered !

1. I picked up the predator 212cc today $120

2. Spent $50 at bmi karts

3. Spent $231 at go power sports

Grand total came to $521 and that's with purchase of kart. Most of the kart will have brand new parts so I feel like its a good deal.

Have new brakes coming for it, Brand new seat, like stated brand new engine, new tires and wheels for up front, complete tq and clutch setup, new chain. Cant wait for the parts to come, once I get the front tires and wheels on I can push it around a lot easier. Had to lift up the front end while dragging by rear wheels to put in storage. Il probably wire the engine kill switch up by the dash, and decide whether or not to keep the top roll cage on.

look at the very first posts in my yerf upgrade thread, if you want to get ride of the shake squeak and clank at the back swingarm mounts, do the mod i did with some square tubing, bronze bushings and bolts. made a world of difference getting rid of that u-shackle setup back there.

hey x, I keep reading threw your thread. I'm def going to beef up the framing on this yerf. The roll cage I'm not a fan of its design I'm thinking of a re design for it. The steering is god awful. I didn't realize it but one of the steering rods is slightly bent. I was thinking of a heim conversion. Wanted to ask where do you guys get your heim conversion kits from. Wanted to do something 3/8 heim on it if I cant get the steering beefed up on my own. Also I weld with flux so I cant go with chromoly steel.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/370824141361...MakeTrack=true

I was thinking these if I'm not satisfied with the steering.

the design of the steering setup on the smaller single a-arm karts doesn't leave much room at all for the tie rods to clear the frame, I used to bend mine along with the steering arm on the spindles on a daily basis. I would only beef up or gusset the critical areas and keep it light. the rod ends you show would be fine, but once the tie rod is larger in diameter than what's on there now, it will most likely hit the frame. best bang for the buck would be to put in a spiderbox rack which includes the tie rods and ball joints and make better spindles. cut off the crushed-tube roll cage bolt together junk, weld it solid with a couple cross tube supports and beef up the rear shock mounts on the frame and swingarm. Those two latter areas are the most prone to tube cracking. for heims i always go with midwest control products, US made and decent quality, pricing and excellent customer support. if this is going to stay as a yard/field kart, the tie rod ends with the rack will be fine. I messed with the pitman arm setup countless times and could never get anything satisfactory out of it.