High end coil install help?
 

I just did more work to the buggy today than I've done since last year and since my 2nd stroke in Oct 2011 if you call pumping the tires up and trying to install a new high performance coil.This new coil does not bolt in the same as the old stock as the old bolts in sideways in this case from right to left sideways.This new coil is about twice the size as you can see and does not have a bolt hole in like the bottom-so how do you mount it???I need your help please. mancoman

More from today
 

Photos

You only need one bolt (for ground) to hold it . You could use one bolt in the existing bracket with some type of bushing/spacer and ziptie the other hole in the coil to the frame to keep it in place. It sure looks much cleaner than the last pic's!!!!

metalstudman1 there is no way to bolt this new coil in the same as the old so I cannot have a metal to metal ground.Please notice the old coil has what I call a bolt inlet wing flange that runs on the bottom of the old coil from right to left sideways.If I unscrew the phillups head bolt the coil comes off and all that is there is the receiving hole for the bolt as there is no holding or mount bracket. mancoman

Look at the pic and see if this gives you an idea-I used the wording- "stud" when I should've used "bolt" in the pic.Sorry the text came out so small but that was just a quickie!!!!

I see from the photo what you are showing Thank You.I took some closeup shots of the new coil while this was coming in. mancoman

Do you have room for a double 90-degree angle bracket welded to the frame with some extra length to support the coil body with a zip tie? [___ shaped with a little extra length on the top so you can run your bolt in from the top.

x-bird I am going to try metalstudman1's way from the diagram he made.The only way I know to do a spacer is to use metal washers and zipties on the other end and hope it don't interfer with the unifilter.I have no way of welding at this time but Thanks man. mancoman

This is the first time since last friday I've had a chance to get over and try metalstudmans1's idea with the new coil.As I feared the coil will interfer with the unifilter and the mounting bolt is to big to fit either hole on either end.I don't know what to do at this point? mancoman

Go to Lowes and go in the Stanley harware section and find a punched plate that will let you bolt the plate to the existing bracket and the other end to the coil ($2.00 + nut & bolt for coil)

either that, or why not zip tie it to the vertical bar with the wiring harness on it on the other side of the uni filter and run a ground wire to your original tab.

What's the best to run a ground?simple wire or a bolt? mancoman

i'd get some heavy gauge wire or even a short ground strap with the internal "star" grounding serration on the terminal ends from the "help" section of your auto parts store and bolt it to both the coil and the old mount tab .

I took the family car over to the gas station where the company that I used to work for gets all their gas and repairs done.The owner and head mechanic is a friend of mine and I had the buggy coil with me and showed it to him and he said it did not need to be grounded.So I left after getting the tires rotated on the car and thought of the idea of you guys telling me to tie strap it on the vertical bar at the same place as the old coil for which I used 4 ties on the main coil body and one though the hole coil wire side and old bolt inlet and one in the hole on the plug in side and around the frame I then fired the buggy up and drove the buggy about 65 or 70 feet and Kaboom!!! and crackle Kaboom!!!Kaboom!!! crackle Kaboom!!! and it would not go over 10mph and then it quit.I had the plug ins backwards and one came completly off so switched the wires and this time it ran strong but the plug ins are loose and I was pressed for time and had to leave before I could get it corrected. mancoman

Glad you got it resolved- sorry didn't realize your coil didn't need a ground as the ones I have like your's do. I can't believe it ran/started with the wires reversed!!!I think you might need a few more zipties on it though!!!!!!

It looks like a porcupine!!!Trust it???mancoman

some of the zip ties are "backwards" (they have a gap under the block end because if it and can't be pulled really tight that way) i'd cut those off, 2 or 3 should hold it in place well enough. IDK regarding the main winding bar, i'd still run a ground wire on it.

Yes I agree it is a patch work job I did in a hurry just to see if it would work.I'm still not crazy about such an important componet just being tie wrapped to the frame of the buggy but if this is the only to install it I have no choice.What about wrapping some duct tape around it as well?The tie wrap on the end double plug in side will have to come off cause I fear vibrations could cause the low side plug in to come off even after crimping the plug connecters to make them tighter. mancoman

The zipties will hold it!! (FYI- most black zipties are UV resistant where the white/opaque aren't)
Round up some shrinkwrap the size of the connectors (1/4"-3/8") and a bic lighter. Cut a piece 3/4" for both connectors and slide the shrinkwrap all the way over the connectors-heat-em up with the lighter and forget them!!!! Now they're secure and weather proof yet can be removed.

metalstudman1 do I attach the wire plug ins to the male plug outlets and then use the shrink wrap by lightly using the lighter to melt the plastic on the connecters(the wrap)that is?Today has been a hot humid rainey day and not good to work on the buggy outside. mancoman

No- slide the shrink wrap over the female ends, with a 3/4" piece you'll have about 3/8" of it on the wire. Wave the lit lighter or heat source under the shrink wrap and it will shrink down to the wire size and shrink into the grooves on the connector to secure the whole connection.

Saturday May 5.It has poored the rain down since yesterday so the following photos were taken inside of warehouse and may be darker than normal.x-bird was right the white tie wraps were all loose to the point I removed them by hand and replaced them with longer black ones that tightened much better...photos with tips and then tips cut off. mancoman

More from Saturday May 5.I was unable to use the shrink wrap on the connectors as instructed by metalstudman1 because the plastic ends would not move to expose the metal female ends so I crimped them with needle nose plyers and they did much better but are still some what loose more than I than I like so any other suggestions?Also my coil wire is running along the frame-is this going to hurt anything or cause a problem-all in all I only got to run on the road for about 5 minutes to test it cause of all the rain. mancoman

For shrink wrap to work those big plastic(green ends) can't be on the connector-shrinkwrap would replace them. sorry didn't realize your wiring harness was like that. You've tried to crimp the rolled edges of the connector and straighten the center lock tab? I don't see anything that would cause an issue with the way you've run it.

The buggy is running strong and no longer has that bog down with the open throttle when the pedal is all the way to the floor so Thanks guys for all the help :cheers:.Ran through some tall grass 2 or 3 feet high and had hundreds of little green bugs including little green grasshoppers in the floorboard and all over my pant leggs and one tick,snakes I don't know?:eek: mancoman:biggrin:

The daughter & I have been exploring new areas to ride and 90% of it is 3' high grass/weeds, my daughter is always stopping to let her hitch-hikers out!!!!

metalstudman1 have a big spider to land in your lap and the the 2 of you will change your minds real quick!:lmao: mancoman

That's the hitchhikers she keeps stopping to get rid of are spiders!!!. The next day we have 20-30 spider webs all over the buggies.