Manco Scorpion 606 - Need some guidance
 

Just picked up a Manco Scorpion, need to go karts, but really like the go kart.

It seems to me like the Torq converter is seen better days, any types on what to do to liven it up? maybe replace with a clutch setup like a snowmobile or ATV setup?

also on the driven clutch on the go kart, there are little bolt like things sticking into the sheeves of the clutch that my belt keeps getting caught on, can get be removed or it just looks like it is opening way to wide, what would be causing that?

any tips on how to spruce it up a little to get a little more speed/accelaration out of it?

Send some pic's of the CVT setup and let us see what might be the problem.And yes there are ways to spruce it up! Let's see what you have first

I dont have pic of it yet, I wil take some tonight, but it just has standard setup I assume from the manufacturer.

I will update tonight or tomorrow morning.

Has anyone installed a bigger engine using the existing drive train?

Your engine has a 3/4" shaft and that's where the expense will come in-bigger motors have 1" shafts or larger and you have to step up to a 40 series CVT-more than $200. to buy if you can find one. There are some 8hp engines with a 3/4" shaft but you have one of the strongest 6.5 motors made and reliable.
When you take pics try to get alignment of driver clutch and driven units in line.Also the bolt thing sticking out is an issue-get a good shot of it.

Seems to me that go kart should have a robyn engine on it, right? Also, the clutch can be cleaned to get it to operate like it should. If you do have the Robyn engine, they are a fantastic engine. Metalstudman is right, it will cost more to get more but then again, what doesn't. Ultimately, by the time you sink the money into making it faster, you likely could have been in a full mini buggy for the same total cost. Once you are there, you will forget about the conventional go karts.

It has the subaru 6.6 motor, series 30 clutch. brand new belt, and after 35 mins of riding it, the clutches open way too far and the belt gets pinched and sticks making the jerk when you hit the gas, and the belt is almost shot already.

I attached pic of the cluthes, they look out of alignment to me. I am going to take them apart and clean them this weekend, any suggestions on carburation and changing the spring or weights/sliders on the clutches?

It doesn't look out of alignment to me.Looks pretty clean! You need to remove the clutch and wire brush the internals check that both springs are not broken and spray with dry lube around the outer portion of the bell..You need to verify that the belt is installed correctly with the flat side towards the motor.When you remove the clutch check the brass bushing that slides on the shaft between the the clutch inner and outer for debris or gummy material and clean.The surfaces of the clucth that the belt rides against need to be very smooth and shiney, including the driven unit on the jackshaft.The clutch can't really open too far- when the belt is worn it will get narrower and ride lower in the driven unit. Your picture shows that it's not as it sits at the top of the driven unit the way it should. After cleaning test drive and let us know how it works--This maintrenance should be done the first time the belt grabs to eliminate belt destruction.

I cleaned the drive clutch, extreme dirty and the sheaves were pitted and built up with crap, sanded and wire brushed it down smooth and polished, but all in all seemed fine, I cant get the driven off, it looks like I have to tip the motor to get it off, which is kind of dumb. or does it come off in pieces?

metalstudman1, fantastic advice.

If you can't slip the driven off without hitting the frame, then yes, you need to top it slightly.

Clean clean clean. The jerkiness happens when either the drive or the driven aren't moving freely and stick. In addition, there should be a bonze/copper looking bushing that rides between the halves (sheaves) of the drive variator. In many cases, that thing is just worn out to the point where it is flat out gone. Does it have something like this that rides on the shaft of the drive pulley?

The driven unit on this kart has a plate that runs under the motor. If you take the bolts out of motor plate you can slide the driven unit out and be able to work on it.Just so we're clear the driven unit has the sprocket on it. Take care when taking apart as the the spring has LOTS of pressure on it. There are You -Tube vids on re-assembly and spring change out. If the driven unit isn't in really bad shape and has the rubber contacts in place I'd leave it alone.Your adjustments for clarity are: motor front to rear tightens belt- driven unit tightens chain.Since the plate runs under the motor get the chain tight first and tighten the 2 driven bolts, then get the belt tight (belt adjustment is loose to snug on crankshaft. If you don't have the brass bushing on the crank then leave the belt loose.Tighten the 4 motor bolts and test. Belt should slip @ engine idle. If things are still confusing take some more pic's of what you're curiuos about and we'll try to help.
Driven units rarely fail in my experience, the rubber contacts fall off/wear out and can be replace without removing driven unit.Spray lube in the area of the spring and end of the jackshaft bearing only (never where the belt touches).I'm going to PM you a CVT breakdown sheet so you can see what's what.

After reading your first post it just donded on me that the driven unit has rivets (bolt thingy's) way down next to the shaft, This is what's eating your belts ---- you just need new rubbers on the driven unit.

I can't tell if the rubber pieces are there or not.

yes rivet ends, I was going to put that in when I told you I cleaned the clutches.

But after driving it this weekend, the Drive clutch is stuck in engagement now and wont come out. I am thinking of just getting a new torq converter setup, getting both new drive and driven clutches. Should I go 40 series or stay 30 series?

northern tool sells a comet clutch setup for 3/4 in drive, but they have 2 different setups, a 10 tooth and 12 tooth. which would be a better setup?

12 tooth more SPEED!!

Will this fit on my kart? and what is the best 8hp engine to go with on my kart?

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...ct_35770_35770

YES,It should as the TAV has just about a bolt pattern for every 6.5 or smaller.Verify the size chain you have and make sure they match-also I believe you'll have to shorten the chain with this CVT unit. I can tell you from experience and my opinion is that unless you're looking for more torque stay with the motor you have. These motors only rev to 3500-3600 rpm's and more rpm's spells more speed and the 8hp won't deliver anymore than your motor. You have to spend alot to get one of these to rev any higher and you might as well buy a buggy with a scooter/motorcycle type motor.If speed is what you're after start looking for a smaller axle sprocket that will fit your kart or a blank one that you can drill your own bolt pattern in.

k, I will stick with the 6.6, my sprocket is a 420p 60T and chain 420x66. so If I go with the 12 tooth CVT from northen tool, what would be the best gear ratio/sprocket to look for?

Verify that the TAV is a 420 sprocket.You need to see how the 60 tooth does on take off and the enviroment/terrian you'll be driving to know whether you can give up some bottom end, if it will spin the tires then (If I was to guess) I would drop down to a 54 tooth.

200379A. - # 24: 12 T Sprocket, #35 Chain, for Torq-A-Verter - So does this mean it is a 420 chain or not?

That's a number 35 chain, the little one. They do make both that and a 40/41.

Since COMET went under, their clutches are no longer available. How are the Hillard Extreme Duty Centrifigul clutches with sprockets built right onto them work? Would that go straight on the engine and chain from it to my sprocket on the axle - bypassing the whole need for a Belt system?

Link for above questions

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...0374_200310374

Yes it'll work- difference from a TAV/CVT system is that the hillard depends on rpm's with less ratio for top end where the CVT uses both clutch and the driven for the lower ratio to achieve greater top end. The Hillard clutch will be MUCH less maintenance (protect it from the rain and rinse it off after a muddy ride-rust is it's worst enemy. Easy to install and you should be able to slide the axle sprocket over to get alignment.

I have a 606 when i got it used i put a new belt on it cuase it was jerking that helped for a few hours then the 9tooth jackshaft sproket rounded the teeth off so i replaced it with a 10t gear well something happend the driven clutch broke the snapring came off so i fixed it now its still jerks some time and the go kart is slow or i should say it has no lowend wont even cimb hills the sring is in the #3 hole and i loaded the spring right

ii neede help !
 

As you may tell by my namee lol i am new to this whole buggy thing.. i recently purchasedd a manco scorpion 606 for 120$ .. all dat it needs is a new chian and da lightss are disconnectedd .. can some PLEASEE let me know how longg and wat the size of the chain iss.. also if anyone can help on how to connect theseee lightss the wires are all derr.. juss need a begin guide on how to kinda connect them ! THANK yu !

Here's a link to the schematics and parts list for the 606B & 606C http://www.gokartsrus.com/manco-606-...al-p-5018.html
your chain will be a #420 by about 70 links.Is the Robin engine still in it?Lights may be disconnected for a reason!

Any one know what a good motor upgrade would be iv been checking out a 16hp clone that is 78 to 83 pounds is this to heavy i would like to keep it simple i cant get my hands on a atv or bike motor i already know i need a 40 clutch but its easyer to make a new motor mount and some pillow blocks

yess da enigine is still in der.. da cables are all derr too..

So I have a Manco Scorpion also and my belt burns up and breaks quite frequently. I don't know too much about go karts or anything but i'm trying to figure out what belt to use for it. I know there is a specific belt that goes for this setup and i'm pretty sure its the manco 5959 or whatever its called... but obviously other people are having trouble with it breaking easily. I know that it mostly breaks because of it being grimy and sticking but I am wondering if anyone knows of a different belt that may be stronger or whatever. Or anyway to measure it to find a different belt. Any ideas? ALSO! the lights on my engine were smashed when a friend of mine accidentally drove into a stiff bush..... any ideas where I can buy lights for it that would fit into the mounts and have the same wiring? Thanks!

to search for a belt by length
http://www.*****************/comet.htm
To get your stock belt number http://www.gokartsrus.com/manco-606-...al-p-5018.html
Just a note- there's something wrong if you're shredding belts, Have you cleaned & dry lubed the clutch & driven lately. You said it you think the cause of the breakage was due to being dirty and sticky.A little maintenance will go a LONG way, instead of waiting on a replacement belt you could be out tearing up some dirt!!! Can you post some pic's of your CVT system so we can see if something is wrong-What do the lights on the engine do?

I have not yet cleaned and dry lubed the clutch recently but I know it will definitely help. The lights on the other hand are just the regular headlights and I will put up pics tomorrow. Now you say you search for the belt by length....does that mean complete full length or just like axel to axel?

I had the same problem at first, I put a new belt on and after a few rides I noticed the belt getting a little thinner and belt residue on the sides of the belt cover.... I did an extensive cleaning of both clutches the Driver and the driven... I had to sand them so that they were smooth, the guy who owned it before must have never done it because there were little pits all over both. when I put the sander to it it smelled like burned rubber (I'm guessing left over belt residue that basically welded itself to the metal.

I made sure everything was operating as it should and now I'm not eating through my belts.

Hope this helps. Also the belt I use is the 5959 (COMET 203589)... its 3/4wide 27 3/8" OD. This is with the 6" driven... If you have the 7" driven the belt would be a little longer, I think the 29" one.

Also, Harborfreight has a 55watt light set for 13.00 http://www.harborfreight.com/blue-gl...hts-46908.html ... they should fit on it, I bought a set to put on mine, I'll let you know how it goes (my motor does not have an alternator so I will be using a 7ah hobby battery for mine).

Oh thank you so much everyone! I'll try all of that!

So I was wondering if anyone has tried to upgrade the suspension? Cause I mean... its not the greatest, just some smalls springs and all. Any ideas? Also does anyone know what other tires would fit it? Maybe some better off-road tires? Thanks!

I plane on upgrading my rear supension first... I plan on buying some of the Surplus Center 12 and 3/4" shocks they have, they are about 12 bucks each. I have pair coming for the front of my Spiderbox, if they are nice I'll put a set on the back of my Manco.

Also Surplus Center has these https://www.*************.com/item.asp 18" wheels in stock for 25 bucks each which is a steal! Shipped to my house they will be about $67.00 they have a 4x108mm bolt pattern... The bad thing is I will have to buy some Hubs to fit the 5/8" spindles on the go kart, and most that I've found are only 4x110mm or 4x4"... so if I get either set of hubs I would have to buy some adapters and those things are around 60-80 bucks for a set of two.

My next option would be to go to BMI and buy two sets of 7" rims with 5/8" bearings and just take the tires off the surplus center wheels... It would steel be cheaper than buying the tires by themselves but I don't know how to change tires from rims (I guess now's a good time to learn).

What do you guys think would be the best option? I really want to upgrade my front wheels to some bigger, my best friends son hit a tree the other day and busted up one of the stock 14" wheels so this gives me a chance to make an upgrade.