gy6 wont start!?!?!?!?!?
 

Have no idea what to do. It ran the day before. It took a while to start it though. tried to start it the next day and it would turn over fine but would not want to fire. please help!!!!!!!:crying:

Did you check for spark? if good then, check for air leaks around the intake, clean the carb (thoroughly). Check for fuel flow from tank. If you have some starter fluid, spray a little in the carb then try and start the buggy if it feels like it wants to start then you have a fuel problem.

I want to check for spark but the spark plug boot is stuck pretty bad on the spark plug. Do you have any ideas of how i can take it out?

Try looking at the seals aroung the carburetor and intake manifold. Then I'd spray some starter fluid in the air intake and see what it does. If you still don't get a spark you probably have a bad plug or an electrical issue.

spark plug boot should just pull right off, it's not screwed in or anything. If you have to use a ton of force on the boot to get it off something is wrong are you have a different type of boot than everyone else.

Ok i got new news on the buggy. I managed to get the a new spark plug and put it in. We got it started but it would only start if we took off the air filter and covered it with out hands. What does that mean? It would continue to run only of we pumped tge throtle but it would stay on idle. Any ideas?

I meant covered the hole where the air filter conects to in the carberator

You need to clean the carb... the engine is not getting fuel, by placing your hand over the intake you are starving the engine for air, but it is pumping lots of fuel into the intake it will fire but not run for long. Open the 4 screws in the bottom of the carb, clean that area out very good. Take the two jets out (they are flat head style) clean them until you can see through them, the longer one is the pilot jet (the hole is much harder to see through you have to use light on the other side to see the opening). Spray out all the orifices/holes with compressed air. Use carb cleaner on everything if you have it, if not, get some.

You can take the top off and make sure the rubber up there has no holes and is sealed (should be good if it was running before), put it all back together, let the carb bowl get filled up (takes about 30 secs) then try and fire it up. You may have to squirt a little starter fluid down the intake/carb to get it going.

Mine did this same thing, a few weeks back, I got some starter fluid, cleaned the carb, and it fired right up. It has been good every since.

Well she ran today. It only started when we blocked the air intake but after it warmed up she ran fine and we put the air filter back on and it ran perfect. After it got cold it didnt want to start anymore. Any ideas? Also when i was driving it i tried to go full speed but when i got to 75% throttle i noticed that the engines epms werent rising and i heared a weird noise from i think the cvt.

Did you clean the carb yet?

Also have you looked to make sure there is nothing wrong with the CVT?

No but we opened it up and it looked new. IT had no bad gas

yeah, I'd clean the carb, you have to blow out all the holes. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nei-9N_s9jU It's just good practice and it will eliminate that as being a possibility.

Next, to take off the CVT cover you'll have to remove the muffler, then there are 8 8mm bolts holding the cvt cover on, remove them and carefully romove the cover, there is a gasket between it. You don't want to rip the gasket, so slide a flat-head screwdriver to peel it off if it is stuck. Check and make sure everything is working properly and looks to be in good working condition. If all is good replace everything in reverse order.

Now, if you run it and it still seems to bog down, you may need to increase your jet size (do you have the stock airbox still?)

I am thinking of just taking it to the shop because for me this isnjust getting out of hand i have expirience with smaller engines but nothing like this

By blocking the opening with your hand, it acted as a choke.

It sounds to me as if your fuel enrichment circuit isn't working.

There's a test to see if it's working properly, but you'll have to search the board for the procedure. I'm not sure where it's at.

The cvt has more then one gear right? If it does should i feel it when it shifts to second?

The cvt itself is not much more different than a comet TAV. expanding pulleys and clutch move the belt to different positions, so technically it should be seamless shifting and you shouldn't feel a shift. I'm with Xlint on the carb issue. you're choking the engine with your hand like in a cold start mode, warms up and it's fine. cold again and it needs choked, which is what the fuel enrichment circuit does. It's under the black plastic cover next to the carb.

you've got a faulty fuel enrichener. It the black plastic case mounted on the side of the carburetor. In most carbs the choke closes off the air flow to richen the mixture for cold starts. With this CV carb, rather than choking the air, there is a independent fuel circuit thats allow extra fuel to richen the mixture for cold starts. The enrichener is a needle and seat valve that is activated by thermal expansion. As the motor warms the needles moves to close off the circuit. What throws most for a loop is the enrichener has to have constant power to operate.
Check the power connections to the enrichener. if there is loss of power the needle stays open causing a over rich condition, flooding and hard/no starts when the motor is warm.
Test the enrichener by remove it from the carb. One screw and it pulls out. Measure the length of the needle extending out of the bottom. Hook the leads up to any 12v power source. After a few minutes the needle should extend approx. 1/8". Remove the power source and the needle should contract. If no movement, replace it.
The cvt issue is most likely worn roller weights. They are a wear item and should be replaced periodically as a part of regular maintinance. There are tutorials on the web detailing roller replacement and the enrichener testing also

Wait but in your last post you put that it will be hard to start when its warm. Mine starts perfectly fine when its warm. It only has issues starting when its cold

I read some were only.line that it could be the valves? Is it true?

yes, your valves could be off, you should take the 4 bolts from the valve cover and check the valve clearance. Per most manuals on the GY6 150 both should be set anywhere from .003-.005. Some guys can tell you what is better for different styles of driving, I just split the difference and set both mine at .004.

I would check the fuel enrichment also, it can be stuck in the "on off" position. Meaning the plunger is pushed down and not contracting (basically your choke is off making it harder for fuel to enter the mix). And when it's cold it will suck trying to start the buggy.

These little engines are not as complicated as it may seem. I'd rather sit and learn how to fix it so if any problems arise I can trouble shoot it myself and get it fixed fast, and save a few bucks in the process.

T.J.

Im a little nervouse to mess with the valves. I dont have the measuring tool

Trust me, I was the same as you, but I did it anyway... it's super easy to do. The measuring tool is a feeler gauge, I bought mine from the local harbor freight. Do you have the manual for you buggy? if not look it up on google, adjusting the valves is routine maintenance just like changing the oil, you should learn how to do it you'll extend the life of your buggy and keep it running correctly.

Ok il see if i can get feeler guage sometime this weekend. Nearest tool shop from me is about 15 min away if there isnt any traffic

oh yeah, go on youtube and look up adjusting the valves on a 150cc gy6, plenty vids on there that show you how to do it. that's were I learn lots of stuff from, it's cool because it's visual.

I'll second T3 - I've never been in an engine before, watched the videos, did it, could not have been easier ! Now I'm pulling stators, replacing crankcase parts - I'm getting really dangerous ! Lot's of good people here to help you....

I cleaned the carb today. I was trying to check the choke but i was alittoe confused on the whole process. I did notice that it never moved when it was unplugged or plugged in. Does that mean its bad?

going through the cleaning process is a good experience, but at some point, like me, I just say enough.... I just went through the whole process, several times, and put on this new carb I had bought a few weeks ago. Couple shots of starter fluid to prime, started right up, runs great ! and includes new FEV

Yes if the FEV doesn't move when powered up it's faulty, check and see if it's been run without the block resistor hooked up to avoid burning up the next one.

Umm im sorry but i dont know what a block resistor is. Its been pretty warm here were i live. If it was a fault fuel enrichment valve shouldnt it have no proplems starting?

what i meant was since its warm it shouldnt need to use the fev right? sorry if im wrong im still new to this

The valve is supposed to move after a couple minutes of having 12V applied.

Like MSM said, look into the resistor block. Should be a ceramic block mounted in the elec connections area that has wires running to the FEV.

When it's warmer weather out the engine will start easier when the FEV has failed, but usually needs a rapid series of pumps to the gas(in my experience)
Here's the part you're looking for in the electrical box-

Mine wont start at all. But i did notice something right now. I took the carb off because i dropped a screw and i couldnt find it. I emptied out the gas out of the carb because it kept dripping. When i put the fuel line back on the only way i could get fuel threw the fuel filter was by flicking it. Even after it seemed like it was full of fuel every time i would flick it more air bubles would show up in the air filter

The vapor lock is typical- I siphon fuel to the carb inlet manually as a normal set-up when replacing a carb or gas tank cleaning as it takes a while for the engine to fill the line fully. If you have fuel dripping from the carb- you have a bad seal(bowl), a bad needle jet to seat seal or possible float level out of adjustment, clogged/obstructed main jet. Any small particle still in the carb after cleaning can cause this, as the fuel runs through the carb it will get lodged in the jets.

It was only dripping from the fuel line so im guess thats normal

Dripping fuel is NEVER normal!!!! I guess what you're saying is you need to put a better clamp on the line?

Yea thats what i meant.

Im wondering since the buggy runs fine once its started. Im guessing that means it has to be that only is needed when getting started. Do you guys think thats right? And if you do is there a list of stuff that i should check?

You are correct about starting- we've already given you most of the list!!!
All these items contribute to easy starting regardless the temperature outside.
Things to do if for "Poor" starting:
Verify airfilter isn't dirty
Check for good blue spark @ the spark plug
Clean carb
Check FEV to verify it's working
Check resistor to FEV and associated wiring
Check for good fuel flow from the gas tank
Check valve adjustment
Properly charged battery
Possibly clogged exhaust

I found some wires that look like they were touching the exhaust. They do look toasted but not to bad. They still work fine i think.

I noticed something today. Every time i try to start it when i havent tried to start it in a while it always sounds like it wants to start but then it doesnt. After that one almost fire it doesnt want tovstart anymore.

Mine did that too... I can't pinpoint exactly what I did to fix it, but, I can tell you all I did.

Took the carb out, cleaned every freakin part of it! I took apart everything that I could on it and blew it out with air. I also checked my FEV and made sure it was working correctly, then I put it all back together. It did not work right away, I shot some starter fluid down and it started to fire up, it took about 10 secs of starting and revving then it fired up. From that day forward it's been running pretty good, now i just have to fix my issue with it wanting to cut off when going down steep hills, don't know why it's doing that.

I ordered a new fev today. Hope it gets here soon to try it out. I also need a reverse cable but i cant seem to find it anywhere

have you tried ebay?

are these the type your looking for? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Reverse-Gear...#ht_967wt_1163

http://www.ebay.com/itm/52-Reverse-C...ht_3088wt_1163

Yea but im not really sure how long the cable is. I think its a 63 inch cable but i cant find one anywhere.

Quick question on the reverse cable; What does it go into on the handle end? Trying to set one up but i'm missing the connection. I take it that it's a clevis style end that goes on the bottom of the handle?

Distilledmetal , what about this one? http://www.chineseatvonline.com/gear...t-p-12850.html

X-bird, what type of shifter handle do you have? My shifter was older, It's not like the new ones that you find on most buggies. I had to rig up the connection to get it to work, I had to weld a little tab so the adjuster portion can screw on to.

Is yours like this?? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Reverse-Leve...ht_2667wt_1396

Yes and No. The concept and handle end/barrel is the same. this is the one from the 2008?? SunL. It's a basic metal plate with a pressed out bump and the big spring-loaded barrel on the bottom that the cable end screws into. The handle itself is a 1/2 wide, pretty long piece of steel with an extension handle bolted to the top end, (total length is like 14-16 inches) it pivots on a spring loaded bolt through the plate and a matching bump on the steel handle rides over the plate's bump when moving it back or forth. The bottom end of the steel handle piece has a small hole that lines up with the other end of the big barrel. Two things seem to be an issue. The inner cable doesn't seem long enough to go all the way through the barrel to reach the end of the handle arm. The bottom of the handle arm, when in the forward position, goes right up against the end of the barrel and there really doesn't seem to be enough room next to it to put a clevis pin in and have it clear the edge of the plate portion.

In terms of the "free" length of the inner cable, I'm wondering if what's missing isn't a long "shaft" type clevis that connects between the handle end, goes deep into the barrel and connects to the cable. which would require that the handle end be hooked up first, then the gearbox end. I can make a short clevis to connect the cable end at the handle end of the barrel, but I don't have enough "free" inner cable length to do it.

got any pics? I'm trying to picture it in my head but my brain is malfunctioning! lol

Opened a new thread on this ...

your gonna need a new cable or a new lever...

What I had to do with mine, because the stock cable broke (it had been sitting for years). I just took it out when to the local bike store and bought a tandem bike break cable its like 9ft long (just the cable not the sleeve). I had to do some grinding on the end to get it to fit into the grove on the gearbox side. Then I just cut the other tip off and wrapped it through the hole on the lever a couple times and used one of the wheel collars I had laying around to secure it. The break cable is a tad thinner than the original, but mine has been holding up pretty good. I'd like to change it all out soon to the type of lever that I posted, along with the correct type of cable, but if it aint broke, don't fix it!

this is the type of wheel collar http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...Ears&search=Go

this is like the cable, you can see the smaller end is not rounded, so I ground it into a ball.
http://www.bikepartsusa.com/bikepart...ry=cable-brake

What Buggy do you have?

actually the one in the link http://www.chineseatvonline.com/gear...t-p-12850.html
at 155 cm is 61 inches. Missed that, it would work well for yerf's being converted with a reverse gearbox.

More news on the buggy problems. I can get it started only when i manually choke it. But i noticed that every time im trying to start it the first couple of times it backfires. Any ideas?

I checked all the electrical stuff it all seems to be ok. But i did notice that when im trying to start it i dont sed any gas moving in the fuel filter. Its full but it is doing anything.

I think the backfiring is just when you manually choke it it gets just a little too much fuel.

If you have...

not in this particular order...
check the spark gap,
check for proper spark,
check the valves,
check compression,
check all electrical connections,
check the FEV,
check for any leaks around the intake manifold or carb to manifold connection,
fuel flow,
cleaned carb thoroughly,
checked carb for proper operations, (everything is there and in working order)
check that the vacuum line is connected and tight.
check tank for proper venting.
(I think that's it, if I've missed anything I'm sure someone will chime in)

If all this is done the engine should start and run properly.

T.J.

Compression should also be checked, the stock GY6 in excellent cond. should be between 150-155psi, with maximum compression loss of 15%. So anything below 127-131psi will effect the engine mechanically. A single piston engine don't like to start cold. The fuel enrichment valve if bad will give you a rich mixture when engine is warm. If the enrichment circuit is pluged up you will not get tthe extra fuel when engine is cold. I believe in one of the earlier posts it was mentioned they changed the carb.

TOM

I just found that the dip tube in the gas tank on mine fell off (my son thought it was out of gas). All of the same symptoms that you describe exactly, except no fuel in the filter. Is your pump noisy (kind of knocking sound?) if it's working, it should be rather quiet. If it's just pumping air, it's noisy.

What pump? I haventheard any wierd noises. I called my uncle to cone check it out because hes a mechanic and he couldnt get it to start either but he thinks its the carb. He told me just to buy another since ther like 30 dollors.

The thread just says "GY6", and the GY6 motor I have is in a Kandi kart. Mine has an electric fuel pump.
I missed the part of the thread before that you said it would start if you held your hand over the air cleaner. So, there's gas getting to your carb somewhere if that is still the case, and it's not the valves. You said that you pulled the FEV off and it doesn't move. It's got a resistor somewhere that limits how much current goes to it. On mine, it's inside the "Electronics Box", and easy to see. It's a rectangular white ceramic resistor about 2 inches long. Someone mentioned that it might have been bypassed, but it doesn't sound like something you would have done. If it is bad (resistors go bad by burning out and opening up the circuit), the FEV wouldn't move, but the buggy should start and run rich instead of not starting. The FEV could be stuck in the hot position as described above, and would then need to be replaced.
At this site: http://www.scooterpartssale.com/inde...roke-125cc-150
Carbs are around 50 bucks and the valve is 14 bucks. You may want to order one of each and end up with a spare something.
Good luck.

Im kinda pissed off. I bought a new carb hoping it would solve the problem but it did nothing its exactly the same as before. I still have to mauely choke it and it doesnt idle. I feel like its not gettingvfuel.

Only thing I can think to check is an intake leak.

Ok let me check for that real quick

did you go through my list of things to check?