should I buy this 3206?
 

New to site
Here goes ;
I am in 40s my son is 10.

We have two old school go karts a
5.5 tecumseh one legger band brake yerf dog a 30+ mph bone jarrin' ride we DIG IT
the second was just given to us by a neighbor who had it sittin in her backyard outside for 2+ yrs

Its 6hp tecumseh more of a higher end model has all the springs and chain and brake tensioner it a Murrauy cart as well
I am still going thru it(3WEEKS NOW ) new chain bearings gonna need tires was missing the carb and air clnr bought a carb and got it going with stater fluid but once it starts it stays runnning and its a money pit
as nutin's FREE :banghead:

Anyway found a 3206 yerf dog in a up here in CT for 600
i was gonna loball hasnt sold in 2+ wks
needs work says it need ends and maybe arms and I found the recall notice
these anygood in the snow ? or is it another money pit , thing is dont have the room spare coinage or really the place to run since they dont giveus any land for that up here in this lame ass state
BUT
figure my son and I could ride together He is my only son and we could use it more than just the summer on mean streets
Anyway sorry long winded but looking for some help all jazzed up like TOMMY BOY :biglaugh:







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Just my .02 the price seems high, if you wait you can usually find a full suspension buggy around that price.

The spiderbox is a fun buggy as many of us here have them. Plenty of info. on this site to do your repairs or modifications. - $600. isn't that bad if it runs well and only has ball joint issues (which all of them do).The stock rear axle is another weak point on these buggies.Just so you'll know "ALL BUGGIES ARE MONEY PIT'S IF YOU DRIVE THEM!!!!!"
My 2 cents is go for it if you're that excited about it-Big change from the ridgid karts you've been driving- your son will love it. Can you post pic's of it?

i would try for lower price
all stock 3206 have ball joint problems
can be cured look at posts for rarerat
& ckau
welcome to the group

If you get the 3206 you may really start to not like the other karts. They are a major improvement and probably the best go kart Yerf Dog every put out. I would try to beat them up on the price as well. I recently saw one go around here for $325!!

new owner yerf dog 3206
 

Ok .
I now have a buggie.
Besides needing spindles.
It wont stay running or start without the use of starting fluid .
I am leaning towards the automatic choke solenoid?
I saw a posting here about the proper length it is supposed to extend out .
Any other ideas ? about this issue?
where does one go to get the best prices for parts for buggies?
Thanks for the welcome and help in advance

Welcome to the "CULT/FOLLOWING" and all it's issues! First off try cleaning the carb (check the float for fluid)verify the jets are clear,fuel lines,fuel filter.The plunger on the choke extends about a 1/4" after a few minutes. Second check for leaks in the intake,move the intake back and forth and look closely for cracks. Thirdly if it still won't run long try adjusting the valves -.004
Is it your spindles that are bad or the ball-joints?
Post pics

Congats on getting the 3206 Yerf, we really enjoy ours and I am constantly amazed at the places we can go in this thing after just a few simple upgrades.

Here are a couple upgrades I did to ours that I strongly recommend to any Yerf.

http://buggymasters.com/forum/showthread.php?t=552

http://buggymasters.com/forum/showthread.php?t=860

http://buggymasters.com/forum/showthread.php?t=812

pics
 

Ok so heres some pics of what I am getting into.:banghead:
I was able to start it with statring fluid Monday nite and then after it warmed up it would start no problem without starting fluid other then pumping the pedal while pressing the start button . So I am leaning towards the choke solenoid . Right direction?
So I found 2 places that sell parts one is buggy depot and BMI wahts yalls view on these places .
I am going to do the heims, rod ends and spindles to start . Right direction?
Any idea about fuel line,
and the wiring would helpful what 'bout the carb line ?
Thanks

it does sound like choke it should extend after about 5 min about 1/4in always a good
idea to set the valves i torque my head to 15lbs first. then set the valves i set to .005
my manual says .003 intake--.005 exhaust but .005 works well for me. but i reset my
valves 2 or 3 times each season & any time i get starting issues.

I'm with Olderthan- ADJUST the valves,that small amount of effort makes ALL the difference on how easy it starts without having to pump the gas.
I've bought plenty from both vendors- Both sell quality product and quickly. I would suggest buying some 2nd or 3rd generation spindles or do the repair Rarerat did.(look-up his spindle repair) Drivers side spindle would need ALOT of work to get it back to it's original shape, the passenger side isn't that bad. Tank/fuel line looks like it did from the factory.You'll figure out that the factory tank is a very poor design as when the tank is full you'll spill gas and it doesn't hold very much, just about any other gas tank is an improvement! It appears the brake switch has been disabled. The black hose from the carb if from the bowl of the carb is normal overflow but usually drops out the other side of the motor- not over the exhaust. Where is the clear hose coming from that's capped off? The handfull of wires may have went to the lights- The original lights were mounted up front just in front of the steering wheel. Just a note: before you do your heim set-up, if you want to raise the front-end get the shocks you'll be using and check the travel for binding.

What are those blue things...LOL, j/k.

Looks like it still has the original fuel line on it too. That fuel line can be notorious for deteriorating from the inside out.... plugging up carbs jets and choke passage ways. Dump all the original fuel line, and go to the auto parts store, get some good reinforced fuel line, and clean your carb & jets, new filter too(fuel).

The two wire down by the master cylinder, are jumping out that switch which is disconnected. It is a starting safety switch.
Those other wires, could be the original headlight wires going up the roll cage to the top...not sure though, didn't get the diagram out and check colors.

Pull the choke and run 12v to it if the needle extends than the choke is fine. It really is not a choke, but an enrichment valve. Your carb has an extra fixed jet for cold starting. As the engine warms and the 12v is supplied tthe enrichment valve the needle extracts closing off the enrichment jet. I have never seen a defective enrichment valve stuck in the extended position. When the valve goes bad due to either the valve being bad or lack of power to it, the engine wil start just fine for the needle is retracted in its normal rest position, but as the engine warms up if the valve is defective the needle does not expand closing off the enrichment jet thus the engine will begin to run on the rich side and badly. I would first pull the carb and thourally clean making sure all jets and passages are open.When they sit for some time the carbs plug up . TOM

update
 

Adjusted valves .
Clear hose from air filter box
Black hose from under bottom of carb w/ screw for draining.
Rebuilt carb inside wasnt all that bad wasnt gummed up but hada green tarnish on inside of bowl and around float jets werent clogged
But all brass and needle were scored .
Reinstalled and and wont start .
Even before when would run it wouldnt idle . Started after adjusted valves so that isnt it ,
:banghead:
Thanks yall so far for all the help and interesting posts

:doh:
Oh boy I am red faced , the start switch wasnt on , it turned over but didnt catch <------big dummy... {fred sanford}:laughing:
Anyway got it started this morning after rebuilding it over last night got the idle set i think with tires off the ground but they were spinning still needs that solenoid as once warmed didnt hesitate to start .
Going local to get solenoid an then see what happpens with the starting issue.
Hopefully it will be just dem dare front end work needed to finish with the initial issues.:D of my 450.00 purchase

catch up with yall later gotta bounce and go get that part

we all learn as we go. glad you are running like your purchase price better than $600

yeah
 

Alrighty then,
P/U that there solenoid and first push that baby started right up.....:D
I set the idle at where im thinking it sounded good w/o stalling,I will load video soon actually as soon as i dump the memory card in the camera so yall can coach me thru that 1.
kliff --------quote
Looks like it still has the original fuel line on it too. That fuel line can be notorious for deteriorating from the inside out.... plugging up carbs jets and choke passage ways. Dump all the original fuel line, and go to the auto parts store, get some good reinforced fuel line, and clean your carb & jets, new filter too(fuel).
Done SIR.....ill post pic for ja .....

Now on to the front end OH YEAH I WANNA SET UP LIKE RARERAT.......
I mean like with dem dare hubs and bigger wheels in the front ......

But MEATALSTUDMAN SAID"
Just a note: before you do your heim set-up, if you want to raise the front-end get the shocks you'll be using and check the travel for binding. "
In other words I migrht need to lenghten the rods?
or changing the sizes of dem dare heim from 3/8 to 1/2 ?
I am not sure I am following ja ?
Splain please am I on the right track in what u r saying sir?

Anyway Thanks yall
My son cant wait for the front end to b finished so he can get the wind in his hair ..hmmmmm or is it really someone else lurking around anyway gotta bounce gonna go knock some pins around ...

Your Yerfdog comes with 9-1/2" shocks on the front and very little travel- If you want more travel and the nose-dive effect to go away get some 12"+ shocks for the front. Install the new shocks and you will be able to set the proper angle for the heims (horizontal to the ground) and tire alignment. Also with new spindle and larger tires you'll be able to test for turning radius. Then with all this done you might need to lengthen the tie-rod arms. By the way do 1/2" heims if possible. Just a note I moved my rack-n-pinion down so I ended up shortening my tie-rod arms. There's plenty of us here to help you with whatever you run into on the mod. Does it make any better sense? Spiderboxes gain a HUGE amount of stability from these up-grades that will help keep your boy from a roll-over and a pancaked front-end on rough trails.

A relocated steering box on mine...

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...f/IMG_1796.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...f/IMG_1795.jpg

Along with 5/8" heims, and hi-mis bushings for 1/2" bolt attachment at the spindles, and a 2" stretch per side on the re-inforced A-frames...

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...f/IMG_1793.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...f/IMG_1792.jpg

And "ground up" fabbed spindles(pitman arms not yet installed), 13& 3/4" shocks, with mounting provisions for 12.5"ers also designed into the a frame, will be necessitating some longer tie rods in my case.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...f/IMG_1791.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...f/IMG_1790.jpg

But it's all fun, just getting ready for DP in October!

Wow
That is some work that youve done .
I gotta say some of yall show some passion in the mods and alot of thought into these set ups and mods.

looking good kliff. toughfordbronco we are looking foward to your mods also post your
elevation and what part of the country you live in.

Looking awesome:biggthumpup:
Just curious is the square tubing structure in the floor going to be the new mounting point for the gas & brake pedal? When I did my rack relocation I was going to put it in the center as well but the steering shaft and gas pedal were in conflict with my feet. Also how's the travel on the heims with them at the same angle as the A-arm? I know the heim bushing doesn't care where it's at in the shroud as long as the bolt doesn't make contact.

Looking good kliff. Giving me ideas for the yerf chasis I have out back of the shop. My son and I talked how it wouls make a greay drag buggy. TOM

Yup, the square tubing is for pedal relocation. I did that for comfort, before relocating the SB, then ended up with the double benefit!

I know it's hard to see, but there is a 5 degree angle on the heims to the A-arms, but with the long shocks 7.5 would have been almost perfect. I do use the hi-mis align bushings on the top and botton hiem thou, and on the tie rod end. At maximum angle, for the shock extended and compressed lengths, the Hi-mis bushings do NOT bottom out, Bottom out occurs on suspension compression about 1.75" after the shock would have completely compressed. TOPPING out, would occur at about 1" beyond full shock extension.
So, if I get any damage to the heims from top or bottom extensions, it will be after something else has already broken, and I'll probably be in a pickle out in the midddle of the boonies somewhere...

Think I'm gonna carry an HRS radio set, with a claimed 32 mile range......LOL

Tom, I've been thinking about a "purpose built" drag buggy myself. The Yerfie is already light, but I think I could nip 40lbs off the front alone.
Be thinking "hot rods, drag modifieds, etc,,,," Staright tube front axle, light weight radius rods, suicide mount transverse leaf spring, handbuilt aluminum bearing/wheel hubs, 8" diax4" wide light duty ITP aluminum wheels. Expanded aluminum floor pan....all kinds of ideas for lighter weight, yet strong enough to drag race. Trail duty and hill climbs would be verboten, but if it ever shows enough interest, I might fab up a couple of extra straight axle front ends.....:biggthumpup:

You wouldn't beleive the idea I'm working on for a trail buggy/hill climber...AWD, twin engine.....

This was one reason I thought drag race due to its light weight,along with narrowing the chasis making a single seat, with I thought a 300ex built to a 360cc should make it a rocket. TOM

Man o Man those are some hot @ss spindles wow...
you should mass produce em their hot really nice job w/that buld from scratch.

Well I am probably go with some generic Heavy duty spindles I might reinforce them with some bolsters on the shoulders and and some ball joints right now in order to get it street worthy .

Just finished the go kart the neighbor gaave us some weeks ago took it for a quick burst gotta adjust the brake . but I had to finish this before I jumped more into the Buggie .
The big worry when I first bought it (BUGGIE)was the running problem w/that solved maaybe a engine air or some sort of mod after the front end is done .
I wanna keep reading and figure out which set up is for me .
There really isnt all that many places to ride up here in Connecticut so that is going to dictate how extreme or deep I would go into it (front end )