Hammerhead keeps breaking belts
 

I have broken 4 belts on the hammerhead....cant find anything wrong with clutch spring / variator weights....Doesn't matter if its a cheap belt or gates ,they will pop in a few hours.

what size belt are you putting on? needs to be a 743/20/30. make sure the rollers are staying in place and all the debries is out of the clutch

Right size belt and clean before each installation

How long have you had this problem and when did it start. Check rollers for flat spots, alignment of pully's, grooves in pully's causing a hangup on decelleration, needle bearings in clutch housing, clutch pully not opening or closing without bind. How is the belt bereaking, shreadding or clean brake, also check broken belt and compare to new belt checking for signs if scuffing or unusual wear. You can put the buggy up on stands and operate the cvt to see what it is doing. Many do not when a belt breaks inspect the clutch halves when spread for debris. The best way to check is to totally disassemble. Sometimes a small piece of rubber of a strand will wedge between the clutch pully halves causing the pully to hang. At that point the belt will have gobbs of play and be flopping inside the cover. This will tear up a belt in a hurry. So check the operation of the cvt with the back up on stands and cover off then observe.

I don't know if you have a 150 or 250 but my 250 belt is directional. if you run it backwards it will shred. i have seen this first hand.

Kid....It's a 150 and to be honest...I never even thought about that...Thanks. The buggy had a broken belt when I bought it , Replaced variator,clutch and belt all new. First belt lasted about 2 weeks , The belts I have replaced since last only a few hours.

Thinking on re-springing the clutch with red springs and a red main spring and replacing 10 g sliders with 8g rollers.

Sycarms.....This thing is dissinegrating belts to pieces.

Check the belt for an arrow before digging into the springs. It would be an easier fix.

Kid just curious, what brand of belt are you using. I have the Gates, Bando, and one other and none are dirrectional for either GY6 or CN/CF 250. rustandweathered37, several things will cause this problem. Flat spots on rollers, belt slippage which can be caused by weak torque spring and as stated flat rollers or slidders installed incorrectly,clutch halves binding, or clutch wobble due to worn or broken needle bearings in clutch, or bad final drive shaft. Also pulleys not linned up, and a blocked air inlet in cvt cover. Last you could have if purchased from same person have gotten hold of some bad belts. I had this happen with some Gates belts about 5 years ago. Seems the factory making the belts had packaged them and sold at a discount to some distributors and e-bay sellers even though Gates had rejected them due to quality controll measures. The best thing you can do is check each component especially the clutch, didassemble it completely and inspect the bearings as well as the clutch halves for binding. Clean the old grease from the halves and regrease but don't over do it so that it doesn't ooze pzst the seals and get on your clutch. If belts are shreadding chances are there may be some strands of belting between the clutch halves which sometimes cannot be seen until halves are disassembled. I have run into this with my own as well as customers. When you have checked everything and have it reassembled with the cvt cover off, tires removed and buggy on stands run the buggy and observe the operation of the cvt looking for anything abnormal. When accelorated variator should rise to the top and clutch to the bottom and when decellorated belt should return to top on clutch and bottom on variator. During this process the belt tension should remain consistent and belt should remain in strait line between pully's.

Hope this helps in you finding the problem, please keep us informed og your progress.

TOM

Tom,
The reason i brought up the belt being directional is because the mitsuboshi belt for my cf250 is. It has a directional arrow because the angles are different on the sides. My brother has a hh and when he bought it the belt was on backwards and it started shredding. One thing i will not scimp on is a belt. I will pay more for the mitsuboshi even though it may be twice the price of another brand. I have had the same belt on mine for over two years now and it still looks new.
This may not be his issue but i thought i would mention it.

Glad you mentioned it for I also carry the mitshuboshi belts for the CF 250 but they don't have an arrow and do not seem to be dirrectional. It might be a special belt I'm not aware of or possibly an old design. Your post made be check my belts to see if any were dirrectional which they weren't. But the info is good to know.

TOM

here is a pic of my spare belt. this one is the same as the belt i am currently running.

See my mittsutoshi belts don't have the arrows but come to think of it years ago I had some bando belts from Blade pwr. spts that had the arrows.

Ok....New springs and belt arrived today.....Took the cover off and found that the variator nut had backed off and ruined the fin half of the variator and the crank threads. I think M15 is the nut size BUT, I am going to have to re-thread to an M14....Anybody done this before and if so what pitch do I need ?

The origional nut is a 12mmX1.25 pitch. I would get the die and try to tap the same threads first. I know of one person who tried to cut threads to the next smaller size by using a die grinder but it did not work and he ended up replacing the crank. The problem will be grinding it down evenly so that it is not off center or you will have one heck of a vibration, which is what happened to the person spoken about earlier. It will throw the crank out of balance. The next size down from 12mm is 10mm which is a tad more then a 1/16". It could be done with tons of patients and planning but I would first try to revive the origional threads first then use some blue loctite on the threads.

I would use a cutter the same size to save what is there and then use washers to keep your nut in the good treads. If possible? I have welded up a crank, then started the motor and used a grinder to round the shaft so I could thread it. It was a bad situation and the motor only lived another month or two.

DITTO, The trick is to insure the die chases the original threads back. Simply recutting a new line of threads won't hold for long. Use a triangular file to clean the first round of threads so the die will start in the old pattern then start the die by hand so you can feel it thread down. Takes a bit of patience but if the threads have not been totaly torn off, the crank will be saved.