These are 6 ply so I will find ATV shop thx for advise.

Discount tire saved the day.
$32 total to dismount and then remount onto new rims.
Installed last night, fun to drive again.

Sweeeeeet!

Unless you change a lot of tires it is cheaper and quicker to just take somewhere.

Fast buggy but need a better air filter
 

I was so wondering if anyone has yet to install a after market air filter for this thing

One of the first mods. most make. Usually using a UNI, K&N or R2C filters. You'll have to make up a redneck cold air intake and rejet the carb.

Don't think many of us here have a factory airbox anymore

What do you mean reject the carb? I’m
Honestly a noob at buggy’s. It’s my first toy.

Replace current main jet with larger jet. By doing away with the stock air box and replacing with an open filter you will be bringing more air into the engine so you must also increase the fuel as well.

Help - look at this video, my front suspension lower joint ... seems loose, is this normal or do I have a real issue? Don't want it breaking on me or the boys.

No the spindle shouldn't be like that. Looks like the nut on the lower ball joint has been loose for awhile. I bet it's wallowed the hole in the control arm out.

That nut is a cotter pin type, so it could not have come lose, right?
I never checked it because of the cotter pin.

Man if the lower control are hole is now oval, as it appears, I'll be really bummed. Guess I need to dis-assemble it and inspect it.

Shouldn't have if it was ever tightened up and the pin installed like it should have been. Any way I look at it I bet at least the spindle is gonna have to be replaced.

I just used it as delivered from the local shop I bought it from nearly 4 years ago.
Yea - my gut feel is same as you, replace the spindle, I'll post back after dis-assemble & inspection.

2017 taotao targa 150cc
 

Any idea how to tighten the chain on this bad boy?

Hey everyone! Can you help me grow my Facebook room? Tao Tao Buggy Group
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1394...642/?ref=share

I’m from Michigan by the way. Maybe we can ride together sometime if you guys live close by.

You loosen up the motor mount top bolt, then the lower portion is a adjustment bolt, slowly adjust that till like 3/8" to 1/2" slack, then re-tighten the top bolt.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZT...3=w800-h800-no

Well good news is the lower control arm does not appear damage, but I feel the guys who assembled the suspension did not make sure the square portion of the top/bottom spindle fit correctly into each side.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2T...6=w664-h885-no

Shows the bad square washer and the lower control arm
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/CJ...5=w664-h885-no

Spindle lower portion
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1C...=w1180-h885-no

Good square washer is top one, trashed square washer is bottom one
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2k...a=w664-h885-no

My local shop, who I bought the buggy from, has zero clue how to order the replacement washer.
Ha, they gave me these washer and suggested I try to file them myself, or take them to a machine shop
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LZ...r=w640-h640-no


Help:
Who has a lead on the service washer with square inside?

In any of my part diagrams it shows them with strut and not separate. You need to re tap those booggard up threads. You can get a rubber cup from the parts store. Won't be exact but close. As far as the washer goes it will have to be the same thickness as the old one and you will have to file it square just make sure the hole in washer is slightly smaller.

Thanks for help with the chain. Mine has two huge bolts in the back. Also need help with changing the transmission oil.

I only change engine oil every 8-10 hours of running use ... never touch the trans oil, my understanding is non-serviceable

Thx guess it's DIY square inside washer time for me :party:

Gear oil can be changed in any of these buggies. Intervals will depend on how much driving. I drive quite a bit and usually change every 2 years. You just pay attention to color of oil, when it starts getting darker change it. It is also important to use the correct oil designed for the air cooled engine since automotive oil has a lower thermal protection since the water cooled engines run 100+ degrees cooler than an air cooled engine.

Interesting. I honestly don’t even know how to check the gear oil without dumping the hole thing out. Where is the plug? I did change my engine oil. It was super black. I put the recommended oil but synthetic. I posted some pics so you guys can see the rear end.

So I’m having a small gas leak coming from the carburetor. When I flip the gas valve to on, without the buggy on. I get a small gas leak. Is this normal?

What make is your buggy? Can't tell by pics you posted. Does it have a neutral and does it have 2 cables for shifting? Any gas leak is not normal and dangerous. If it were to leak and catch fire while driving you may not know until you feel the burning.

2017 taotao targa 200

150cc

Has anyone messed with their Carburetor Jets?

Just about all of us have. Buy a jet kit and tune it with that. On mine I have to retune whenever the temp drops below 50 degrees F.

Awesome! Yeah I just ordered new jets and a uni filter and some uni oil. Going to get my hands dirty this weekend. I’m just not soo sure about tuning the carb. It’s a stock one that came with the buggy. I’m going to follow this link.

https://infocenter.buggypartsnw.com/...r/?page_id=173

When I removed the air box, there was a bolt on the side that I had to unscrew. The bolt was attached to a line that went to the gear box. The conector to the gearbox had a white looking plug. Any idea what to do with it once I install the uni filter?

Here’s the pic

So I installed a new uni filter and upgraded my 95 jet to a 130. No problem at idle, but when I drive it and start pushing down half way on the gas it bogs down. Does this mean too much fuel?

You will need to read the plugs but I'm gonna say 130 is way too much jet. It also depends on elevation but I have a lot more done to mine and I don't even run a 130.

Go find a strip where you can run it wide open for about 500 yards and turn the key off without letting your foot off the gas. Let it coast to a stop. Get off and remove the plug (be careful it's hot). look at the spark plug.

https://www.tuningmatters.com/wp-con...al-640x360.jpg

Guys this is super helpful! Also thank you for the help! I’ll tune it tomorrow. Probably will start with 115


Sizing at sea level:
With UNI filter 120-125
With UNI filter and low restriction exhaust 130-135
With UNI filter, low restriction exhaust, A12 cam, performance coil & CDI and NGK Iridium spark plug 135-140

Test procedure:
1. Run engine at less than half throttle a minimum of 15 minutes to close electric choke
2. On a 300' or 100 meter stretch or greater, run the engine at wide open throttle
3. While still holding the gas pedal to the floor, cut the ignition
4. Remove the spark plug and inspect end for color
a. White - Increase jet size
b. Tan/Brown - Correct jet size
c. Black - Decrease jet size
5. Clean spark plug with brass wire brush and check the gap prior to next test run

Hints:
1. Change jet size by 2 or 2.5 for fine adjustment by 5 for coarse adjustment
2. Reduce jet size by 2 or 2.5 for every 1500 ft or 500 meters of elevation
3. Stock fuel delivery may not be sufficient above a 130 main jet and may require larger diameter fuel lines and less restrictive fuel filter
4. Once main jet is selected, the air/fuel mixture screw can be adjusted for optimum idle

one thing these plug tests procedures never seem to mention is the potential for stripping out the threads in the head. Aluminum heads expand and will tighten around the spark plug. removing a plug while the head is hot can damage the aluminum threads. Give the head a few minutes of cooling time to relax the metal before pulling the plug, then make sure you can thread the plug completely back in by hand

Speaking about plugs. What gap is recommended? Quick update though. I finally got the buggy carb and air filter tinned. 110 size jet.

Always use high heat anti seize on sparkplugs. The stuff I use is the copper not the standard nickel stuff. The nickel will work I just have had better luck on spark plugs with copper in my race trucks.

I seem to remember .025 gap is what is suggested factory on most scooters. I wanna say I run my buggy at .028 but mine is bored and cammed.
110 jet sounds closer to home. I wanna say I only run a 115 on my machine. On mine I also find depends on the temp outside I have to retune, I call it swapping between a summer and winter jet. I also run a 28mm carb where I really should be with a 26mm so mine is on the ragged edge of tuning and can be pretty picky.

Thanks for those tips. Mine is gapped at 25 and is copper to. Guys please join my “Buggy junkies” group on Facebook. It’s hard to keep up with a blog. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1394...642/?ref=share

I’ll make the first few of you guys admins.

Thanks for everyone’s tips on getting my buggy back up and running. The only thing I really need now is a new air intake tube.

I joined but I very rarely get on FB, matter of fact I avoid it.

No problem bro! Thank you. You are now a admin.

My 13 year old son said "dad, I'm turning the steering wheel but it's not turning"
Upon checking it .... ugh, it's broke, the driver side spindle
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iG...k=w678-h903-no

pass side spindle is ok
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Lf...w=w678-h903-no

I ordered a pair for $59 thru local dealer.
Also ordered those spindle washers with square center holes posted earlier, they are 0.25 each ..

They might be in early next week, I'll post pictures of tear down and build up.

hey - your targa 200, does it hit 30-32ish mph??
my 150 hit's middle 20's , about 26mph-ish, just curious.

The replacement spindle came in, putting on today.

My front tires 21 x 7-10's were badly worn, my dealer offered 23 7-10 as replacement with rims mounted $120 out the door.
they will then make the front end sit 1" higher, can't see how that will hurt anything.
Is that ok to use them? I've not put them on yet.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5Y...w1200-h1200-no

No problem with using them.

Thx - I've had this go-kart over 4 years now and it's given us many great memories.
This site is a great resource for info.

I run 23x8-11 on honda atv rims on my buggy. Hard turning they rub but otherwise they work just fine. Thats a killer deal with rims. I think my tires alone were $111 (GBC dirt devils) for 2.

The wheels / rims fit fine and fortunately no rubbing on max turns either direction, just 1/4" or so clearance but no rubbing.

We installed the LH spindle, I had my 13 year old do most of it to learn.
Pretty easy actually.
It was cold, so used those infra red heaters and cardboard on floor.

The TX located distributor messed up and sent us 2 Left spindles, I'm getting the right Monday so will install that also, just so both are new and same level of usage.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WE...w1024-h1024-no

double - ignore this

Now - while riding it the 4 year old chain went, and my local guy won't be back at work till Monday Jan 6th!
Stopped by a motorcycle shop, they don't sell chain wide enough, I measured the sprocket at 9.2mm wide and chain 10.0 inner plate.
Pitch 11/16's (15.8mm), roller dia as 13/32's (10.0mm), pin dia as a "fat" 3/16's (5.0mm)
Is there online place I can buy from for chains?
I count 54 pins.

I have a 50 chain?
https://www.fbchain.com/fbkc-50-roll...35-ansi-b-29.1

and my local TCS has them in stock ... so buy it and cut to length??
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...t?cm_vc=-10005

Also, need shocks, rears are gone, the fronts work fine still.
Do I buy just the shock and swap the spring, or are they a set?

Local TCS had this, holy smokes my old chain sure was worn / stretched.
Now I'll put new chain on yearly, got enough for it.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JO...w1024-h1024-no

Well I'm going thru my owners manual to see what it says about bleeding hydraulic brakes, nothing.

I see this thread here
http://www.buggymasters.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2583

However I did notice the tire size listed for front is ... 23x7-10's , while mine came with smaller 21x7-10's ... why'd I never notice that??
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LE...h=w640-h640-no

Front tires won't make any difference in performance.

Tried the brake bleeding thing, etc, I just ordered a complete set of bleed brakes $150, what the heck why not.
The rotors are in good shape, I looked at the set with rotors but they were for 6-bolt rims not 4-bolt rims.
https://www.gopowersports.com/150-cc-brake-kit/

https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-q733...881546.jpg?c=2

rears with parking brake
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/SK...1=w800-h800-no

front left, yea some of the guts came out :biggrin:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/A8...D=w800-h800-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/78...x=w800-h800-no

Also ordered rear shocks, the fronts still fully rebound.
This buggy continues to deliver pure and simple fun, I'm 57 and grin ear to ear still every time I ride it.
My boys ages 14/15 and daughter 17 enjoy riding it also.
https://www.gopowersports.com/rear-s...150-6-000-006/

Just did some catching up on the site and love your TAOTAO buggy and it's progress. I'm another "older" kid that loves playing in the dirt! The thing that impressed me the most in this thread wasn't the hard work you've been doing but was the pic of your son working in the cold on it! How did you get that to happen?

Owen truly likes riding the go-kart, and to help fix stuff.
The infra red space heaters helped also ... him and me, plus the cardboard trick instead of cold concrete.

Need so advice here on how to remove the shipping blocks between the calipers.

I took the old brakes and hoses out.
Installed the brake master cylinder, put each caliber where it belong routing wise.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/r-...-=w800-h800-no

I can't remove the black shipping pad's that are on the pre-bled cylinders.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TY...u=w800-h800-no

I did not want to lose the bleed, but if the only way is for me to slightly loosen the bleed screw till that caliper pad comes out i can do that.

Remove master cyl. cap so that pressure has somewhere to go, then using a large pair of channel locks and compress piston. I've never run into this, they usually pull right out.

I tried the above, still grip too tight, or I thought, so I took a medium straight screwdriver and gently pushed on the black wedge, it came out.

Then I thought "cool, will be driving this tonight!"

but ..... the mounting plate is not correct for my front axle spindle, as can be seen on the picture markup.

I need a 1 5/8" pitch , the replace part mounting plate is 1 1/16", there was no choice on their website to check or spec that dimension, which causes not to mount as the brake rotor interferes.

I'd rather NOT take the caliper apart to swap the old one in ... will call the part supply company I ordered them from and discuss tomorrow my return / swap options with them.

Almost there, since were going snow skiing over MLK weekend I'll try and get the fix parts so we can then finish the job weekend of 1/25.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PY...b=w800-h800-no

Bringing closure to the brakes ...
I ended up getting another brake kit, this time from the dealer who sold me the buggy.

We installed them Sunday afternoon, and the buggy is 100% operational again.

Plus - we put new rear shocks on.

It's so much fun to ride, I should have taken an after ride shot showing all the snow in the buggy.
Reminded my son to get all that out before parking it in the garage.

My boys learning how to dis-asseble and assemble, how to use tools, proper torque, etc
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/OY...=w1204-h903-no


wide angle view ... we need a bigger garage :)
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ra...=w1204-h903-no

:party:

I'm happy that you got it working again! I'm still in a state of shock seeing your son working on the toy:hail: Can't get my son out of bed!!!

He actually enjoys doing go kart maint stuff.

Of course, it's working 2-3 times, and then the rear motor mount bolt breaks again, it last happend ... 2 years ago??

8mm 1.25 pitch x 110mm just gives me 3 full threads of engagement ... so I made the call and we are using it that way.
These from local tru-value store, as Home Depot / Lowes does not carry these.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Rt...U=w400-h400-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fI...I=w640-h640-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xy...o=w640-h640-no

But, I'm now looking for 120mm length, can't find the 8.8 hex cap screw so might just use the socket head cap screws....

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cz...0=w400-h400-no

I see Rural King is now selling these, my local one has 1 on display

It’s nearly identical to mine but actually seems some improvements.
I took pictures will post them later.

https://www.ruralking.com/yerfdog-16...-kart-bk200-yd

https://www.ruralking.com/media/cata...idth=&canvas=:

This has a Coleman label on it, it has a few upgrades to my 2014 model I'll point out in next post - muffler and engine cradle, below are general pictures.
IMO they made it more robust, a good thing.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Wa...-no?authuser=0

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yb...-no?authuser=0

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0R...-no?authuser=0

here's the Rural King ID tag, it's built smack dab during covid-19 ...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2K...-no?authuser=0

Brakes - this seems a weird master cylinder, can't see fluid level ..
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Jw...-no?authuser=0

I like the dual engine cradle mounts over my single one
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/es...-no?authuser=0

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mz...-no?authuser=0

The muffler is mounted to the engine, not the engine cradle, so it should suffer less vibration induced breakage like I experienced.
Plus it look more robust.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lV...-no?authuser=0

Rear brakes and chain seems identical layout to my 2015 model
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cz...-no?authuser=0

From my 1970's engine class:
Intake-compression-ignition-exhaust

She's been working fine engine wise all this time, sometimes in extreme cold a shot of starting fluid to get going.

Now, engine won't start, working fine one day, nada next day.
I pulled plug, did the clean the plug with bristle and it back in, no start.
Replaced plug around least 1 year ago, so I'm guessing plug still good.

Pulled plug, had my son crank it as I watched for arc holding against cyl head... no arc.
So I'm guessing something wrong with the ignition ..

I checked to make sure all wires/etc are firmly attached, they are.

I've not dabbled with the ignition on this engine here, so advice is appreciated.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0J...-no?authuser=0

Recheck with good known spark plug. Could be a bad plug.

Yep - agree I spent the whole $4 and got a new plug, just zero deg f here so will wait a few days and try it out... best case is bad plug ...
TIA

Surprised me, but the new plug worked!
Fired up immediately, I've never experienced plug completely Dead before.

Having fun again.

Sadly covid19 killed the local buggy shop by me where I bought the cart.
So if a part breaks/etc, it was nice to go there and get local service.

Well, fix something, another thing happens.
My son was having "fun" sluggin the buggy thru sloshy snow, then upon it getting stuck a few times, and him rocking it back-n-forth, the engine chain tensioner broke, rats :cussing:

Worse, the place I bought this from, and parts over the multi-year journey of owning it, went outta business end of last year :(

Help: Where should we now look online for suitable replacement?
I'm having my 15 year old son measure it, as learning what's important for fixing stuff to buy the right part.

slushy snow
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/b1...-no?authuser=0

Yep - it's broke
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4x...-no?authuser=0

Removed and he's measuring it now
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9D...-no?authuser=0

I tried the links to part providers on 1st page here, no luck.
Then I did a search on "go kart engine chain adjuster"; lots of similar devices.

Need to find one with similar geometry.
I also think the side-side motion stability is important, so it should nestle same way.
If not sized, then with bushings.

google search
https://www.google.com/search?q=go+k...APAOJ1elvTflRM

This one seems leading candidate
Kandi Engine Adjuster Assembly for 150cc and 200cc GoKart
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kandi-Engin....c100009.m1982

I sent him the below:
Hi - My 2015 Tao Tao 150cc buggy just broke it's chain tensioner.
I'm looking for dimensions on yours, do you have a spec sheet? I could not see it.
I want to make sure the bushing portion fits between mine, if needed I'll put washers or loose bushing so no slack.
My bushing is 65mm / 2 9/16" wide, 25 mm / 1" dia.
Also, what size bolt goes thru that bushing, mine measure 7.79mm / 5/16" outside thread?
And Whats the chain tensioner thread size, mine measure 15.89mm / 5/8" outside thread .
Overall length is 124mm / 4.9" from centerline of bushing to top of big adj bolt.

Take the broken one to a welder and have him weld it.

Also check that the engine bushings are not bad.

I found a local welder, its my plan B

they are fine, good point

Plan A:
I ended up getting the part on the right, similar enough I could make it work
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0k...-no?authuser=0

Installed
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/B_...-no?authuser=0

I used large hex nut and then plain washer to ensure just tight fit in between the engine cradle boss

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ke...-no?authuser=0

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lz...-no?authuser=0

There is zero slop, and able to tighten the chain.
The original had a bushing to lower the adj nut below the frame for easier tightening and wrench access, for this it was just too long so did without it.

Well - everything has been fine up to 2-3 weeks ago, then the engine started acting up under full throttle, then hard to start, then refused to start.

My son's 17 year old buddy, who knows engines a little, attempted to clean the carb, but the factory one float bowl is fixed, and the low speed fuel mix screw is missing.

So, I bought a 100% replacement kit
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Still would not start, so I went back to 4-cycle basics:
Intake, compression, ignition, exhaust.

Got a compression testor, and now appears it's low compression, says 60psi after a 1-2 seconds of cranking.
(edit after initial post: I see 125-150 psi is desired range, so definitely something amiss)
So ... what now? Take off valve cover and start from there?
Check valves seated, etc ... ugh, advice appreciated

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5Z...-no?authuser=0

Did you have throttle wide open when doing test?

Yes, throttle open or closed no change.
I’m preparing to take valve cover off and see while cranking over valve proper action and seating.

Definitely check the valve clearances. Everything you describe sounds like a valve adjustment is needed.
By the way-my HF compression tester started showing 60psi & lower on good running motors after about 6 months from purchase/use, I know it's not accurate now as I tested a new engine (it tested 175psi @ shop) and a known (hasn't been running engine) test that was 110psi. I can't explain it but a motor shouldn't run below 60psi very well!

Quick valve cover take off showed nothing broken, and the 4 bolts holding valve were tight

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/aU...-no?authuser=0

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Gm...-no?authuser=0

Here's a 5 sec clip of just turn over to watch

https://youtu.be/S800-onfLFU

Now I need to get engine at TDC and go thru the valve adjustment procedure, per the GY6 manual I downloaded from here.

Q: How to manually turn the engine, to get it to TDC properly?

I'm not a GY6 expert!Remove the CVT cover, I used the variator to turn the motor over by hand, the manual should show you where to find the TDC marks, the intake valves always seemed to get tight over time for me and caused a poor start condition.It's been so long since I've worked on one of these,sorry I can't be more specific.

With oil can squirt 2 squirts of eng oil in plug hole and redo test. If compression rises it is your rings and if it stays same valves.

Thx both metalstudman1 and SYCARMS, hope you enjoyed Fathers day.

Father and son mid-day project:
Followed this
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RC...-no?authuser=0

A good learning moment for my son, as we both turned the engine over manually he learned basic cam/valve operation.
At TDC there was no gap, so they were not fully seated by the valve spring.

I set them at 0.10mm gap, used the 0.127mm as a no-go gage.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8n...-no?authuser=0


The anticipation was there, as my son cranked it and it showed 140psi I shouted out for joy!!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Gh...-no?authuser=0

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/w3...-no?authuser=0

Went to Home Depot for some misc plumbing to route the new air cleaner past the frame
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Dm...-no?authuser=0

Final routing, zip tied to engine cradle frame to minimize any vibrations
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0z...-no?authuser=0

end result:
Started right up, hip hip horrary!

Bonus is I instantly could notice the better power/torque, yep.
Guess when something slowly goes you don't notice it, then back to spec and "hey, that's nice and fun"

I let my son have the first ride, then I took my cruise on our property and private road, waving and smiling to the neighbors.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5p...-no?authuser=0

Since I had the valve cover already off decided to confirm valve adjustment first, hoping that was root cause, fortunately it was.
Engine tear down I’d tackle if necessary, but I’ve been diligent on basic maintenance, oil changed and keeping dirt outta the intake, so hoping not. Fortunately the quick fix did the trick.

Happy Father's day- I'm so glad that was the issue & you managed to correct it.

Glad to hear it's back running again.

BTW - Going from zero clearance to spec clearance 0.10mm was about 5/8 of a turn on each valve.
Loosen the nut, the small shaft on top of valve stem has a flat on it, a really skinny flat, none of my ignition wrenches were small enough, so I took a 4" crescent wrench and used that.
Yea, if I knew the tpi could calculate it precisely...

Of course check once tighten also, well I snugged it, then check, then tighten it, then check.
No torque spec I found in the GY6 manual, so just tightened it to a experienced good tight w/o stripping the nut, via 1/4" ratchet.

All ready for upcoming July 4th gathering at our home, as were ready for a Post Covid 19 big gathering :D
Got 5 nephews and nieces in 3-7 year range who will want rides.

Well .. my GY6 has lost compression and won't start .. I thing this time needs a complete teardown and ring job... actually Summer 2022 it happened and been so busy sadly the go kart has been parked in the garage.
Glad to see this forum back ...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/U5...-no?authuser=0

Well the go-kart has sat in the garage too long! .. 2 kids off to college, son in high school senior, we have labor day weekend.

Still 60-ish psi .. did not magically fix itself
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0

So did tear down
Yep -same redhead boy he is 17 now, 18 next March
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0

Pictures, there is carbon build up on piston and in combustion chamber.
Yet, the cylinder wall feels smooth, no scorching, etc.

Is it possible some carbon is keeping the valves from seating 100% and that's why not 130psi?

I'm thinking this:
I'll clean the carbon off the piston and the combustion chamber, press the valves and clean with wire brush the valve seat.

Do a simple re-assemble and see if compression comes back up.

If not, then next step is piston removal and compression ring check/replacement right?

btw, I have never took the engine apart, no gasket at all.
Typically gasket between head and block I'm used to, these GY6 none?

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Owen and I cleaned the carbon off the piston and the combustion chamber and valves.
I pressed / held the valve open by hand, while Owen used wire brush to clean the valve seat.
Carb cleaner did a great job, sprayed it in each valve chamber, soak.
Next weekend will re-assemble.
Need to look at the GY6 manual for proper alignment of crank rotation, placement of cam, etc.

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Head gasket will re-use.
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Gy6 Manual .. seems basic enough.
Align F on rotor to crankcase mark
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Piston should be at TDC now.
Install cylinder head, install camshaft with T mark following page 17
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Finish with chain tension per page 18
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