Swing arm heim conversion
 

Takijg X-bird’s idea of the swing arm heim conversion, I fabbed the following. The main difference between his and mine is that I did not want to increase the wheelbase. If anything, a slight decrease would be a plus for me.
First I got some rectangular bar stock 1-3/8 wide x 1” thick x 3” long. Standard width for the bar stock is 1-½ wide so you got to shave a 1/8 off one side in order for the bar to slip into the rectangular swing arm frame. I used a 5/8 heim so a 5/8 x18 hole was drilled and tapped in the bar stock located to place the heim centered in the original bushing tube location.
The swing arm was cut using a 4”cut off to remove the bushing mount and slicing the tubes to receive the bar stock. The tab that’s folded back gets folded back up and welded in place after the bar is securely in position. Because there’s not much area to weld in the bars as the bars were 2/3rds in the frame , holes were drilled for welding spots.
Tap the bars into the frame ,get the heim holes centered and weld it up! That’s it! Clean up the loose welding slag and your done.
Wheel base remained the same. Heims gave a smoother /tighter pivot. Adjustability to square the wheelbase and the ability to give some side to side offset by using different length spacers in the frame hanger. I may play with this side to side thing to see if it effects roll center whenever it finally gets on the scales. Replacing heims are a quick easy and cheap fix should something go wrong and because the bar stock internally bridges the original but joint in the frame some major strength has been added.

Looks good, i like the "from the side" approach you took. Didn't even think of going that way. Fun putting a big lug of solid stock in there, isn't it? "man, this thing keeps getting heavier ... " LOL

What made you go this route instead of just sticking a Bung in there?

the way the frame side tubes angle off combined with the tubing dimensions in relation to a regular round bung makes it difficult to set and weld in place. A lot of air space around the bung and you have to set it crooked in relation to the tube to make it parallel with the mount. Each side is also on a different angle to add to the fun. Ckau's method is pretty sweet--definitely easier than what i did. (I just had my materials at no cost) Ideal for a stock or shorter length wheelbase. If you wanted to go longer, you could still do the same and bore the bar stock and insert the bung partially into it and gusset it.

This seems like a good idea...but.:suspect:..The problem i see with a heim joint is side to side stress. On a motorcycle ,the swingarm uses a normal pressed in bushing.There is more area with a bushing to absorb the abuse . There is also less weight, but a buggy has the motor/ trans ,reverse mounted to the swing arm. But the real reason they are not used is dirt, the low mounting position leaves it exposed to everything.The good thing is it will be easy to replace. However if you can cover it with a simple rubber boot that will help protect it .;)

Yea I have the same concern, The heims I chose were designed for the panhard rods in rock crawlers. and rated at a static radial load of 31,390 lbs. if I can bend one of these I'd be proud of myself!!! I'm willing to bet the frame brackets tear out first. The bottom line is .. it's a experiment. if it works .... Great! If not? back to the drawing board.

The panhard rod I installed on my Mustang uses the same heim joint. The job of the rod is to keep the axle centered under the body of the car.It is mounted horizontally so no side loading is used just L to R
The upper and lower control arms take the brunt of the body and drivetrain loading .
I did not say it would not work its just not designed for that purpose.There is very little water /dirt / mud protection either.It will be easy to replace them as you stated so dont get you drawers in a wad!

nice job!!