ideas for better climbing
 

Hello guys.. looking for any ideas that can make my baja reaction 150 a little better at climbing hills. It loses complete power at even the smallest hill and leaves me stuck on the mountain. I have not upgraded anything on it. Any links and ideas would be greatly appreciated

look under this category for mods to gy6-150

and welcome to the club

Thank you.. will do

Look at my signature below... you can go to .... buggypartsnw.com... kartmart.com...kidnmeparts.com... an 11gram slider will help you climbhills go thru sand and mud ofcoarse with good tires without losing any top end. The lighter you go on your sliders the more torque you'll have but you'll start to lose some top end speed.. I don't know what you know but the sliders are in your variator. You'll also need to put a yellow clutch main spring to keep your belt from slippin. You want also more air to go thru your motot. Get a uni filter get rid of the air box. And gut your pipe. If you take this route with the u.I you'll need to rejet your carb....Eddie.

Thanks a lot miamieddi thats what I wanted to know about the sliders. I wanted to know what weight og grams I should use for climbing. What do you mean about gut the pipe? I have been loking at the kidnme wesite and it seems they have some complete upgrade packages.. thanks eddie

Do you have a welder?? If not take it to someone who does locally... cut the end of your exhaused off rip everything out from inside ur muffler weld the end piece back on and screw ur chrome piece back on ur muffler. Done.. you'll need to put a redneck intake on ur intake carb then put the uni filter on it because ur frame will be in the way. Probably 5to6 " of extended hose from home depot to take place for ur redneck intake its what I did. That's if ur setup is the same as mine if not then connect the uni filter streight to ur carb....Eddie.

I do not have a welder. But I do know someone who does and might be able to help me that..ill try searching for some videos on how to do that to get a visual.

Kidnme has a dr2 variator that gives you both torque and top end. Look into that.

Miamieddi where and how did u find attach the dual gad tank? I have been filling up my tank every weekend of using my buggy and I only use it sat and sun

I welded a cross bar on the back of the roll.cage. Right above the original tank that came with the buggy, on that bar I welded another gas tank exact duplicate tank onthere ran a gas line diwn from it too a y right before the fuel filter, now the top and bottom tanks fuel line are connected too that y. When I run the the buggy I run one tank at a time controlling it with the shutoff valve that comes with each tank. When one tank runs out I turn it off and turn the other tank on.

Thats a great idea. Thanks

Welcome br150 I would start with the 11 gram sliders and the 1500 rear yellow torque spring like miamieddie said. See how the improvement is first and it will only cost about 35 bucks. The parts aren't hard to replace if you have a 3/8 impact gun. I don't recommend a 1/2 impact gun because the nuts only need about 35/40ftlbs max.

Our 2004 blue dune 150 came with 14 gram rollers and when I put in 10 gram rollers and the yellow big torque spring it was a high rpm doughnut making hill climbing machine. The top speed was down almost 10 mph so the 11 gram sliders were the happy middle for speed and climbing. It all depends what works for you so start with a couple mods first. Also the lighter rollers/sliders will use more gas for sure, but well worth it.

Johny thanks for your input. I will be ordering the 11 gram sliders this weekend and the spring. I agree that is a good place to start. I do plan on upgrading the intake but I have been seeing that you would also have to rejet the carb? I have no issues doing that but I just dont know the size of the main jet replacement. I think the 132 would be ideal. But yes, I will be trying these sliders first and the spring

Johny would I have to upgrade the cdi if I do this?

Nope

Miamieddie is right the cdi doesn't have to be changed.
As for jetting what jet is in you buggy now? I tried a bigger jet in our stock 150 no major mods but uni 1.5 inch filter and sink drain pipe with radiator hose from carb to the 1.5 inch intake(home made intake) and with a stock 114 jet it ran okay. With a 120 it ran rich and with a 117.5 it was good.
I think A 132 is a big jump.
But every buggy is different and rich is your friend and lean is mean.

I agree .... mine came stock with 124 jet now I'm at 132 which its good.. whatever stock jet you have may not be the same as mine... unfortunatly when it comes to jets you can't copy my set up.. its going to be more of a guessing game (trial and error). On mine I went up 8 numbers. Ur stock jet might only be a 114 as mine was 124. Try and figure that out :) although we have the same cc... manufactures know what jett to put in for each state... elevation + climate etc....Eddie.

Welcome to the fray br150. Here is a link to a thread with a lot of mod info. Hope you enjoy.

http://www.buggymasters.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4191

One fairly easy and inexpensive mod for more climbing power would be changing to an A12 or A13 cam. This will give you a nice boost to bottom end power and more power across the board but most gain in the lower rpm which is where you want it on these buggies.

Thanks guys for all the input, really appreciate it.. one quick thing I recently changed the spark plug and been having problems turning it on. Pulled the plug and its burning it black? What can it be?

If its black, then you have a rich running condition. What did the old plug look like? If it was the same, put the old plug back in and see if your starting condition goes away, if not, might be time to look at the carb.

I changed the plug bc it started having that problem. But it continued to have the same issue with the new one. I am pulling the carb as we speak

Look and see what size is your main jet. You'll also need to go smaller on it ur too rich.

Would the main jet be something I would be able to get at autozone or an alike store?

If it is a starting issue, it may be the pilot jet, pilot jet passage, or even the electric choke, all are known issues that could cause hard starting and rich condition.

No.

It would have to be ordered from a GY6 distributor, like Tom w/ SYCARMS. See banner above^

The choke is the thing attached to the carb right? (1st buggy)

If it has an electric choke, then it will be a small electric solenoid on the side of the carb. They have a tendency to stick in the on position, thus dumping too much fuel after the engine is warmed up

What do I do to the choke? Remove it and clean it ?

114 is the mainjet...

Here what it does.. takes a few minutes to start... with the foot on the gas .. and ones it starts togoing its very slow no power.. after 20 to 25 minutes of riding it starts going normal.i have to carb of right now and cleaning all the small crevices with air

Seems like if it is running rich that those carb ports are letting that gas flow just fine. Your air filter could be clogged. Remove the airbox from the carb and see if it will run. Does it do the samr thing when its cold??

That's small. Use the same jet clean all jets tiny holes real good. If you have a sewing needle use it to clean out those pores in ur jets. Check ur choke by removing ur choke connect the two wires to the battery (+) (-) turn key on position wait 3to5 minutes and see if it oppens or closes if nothing ur choke is no good. If it does contract its good reinstall it try and see how she starts after cleaning.

And yes on the filter try starting it without filter to see if that's better. If so clean that filter.

No guy, same thing.. harfd starts.. I have done 3 things. Checked the fuel filter, cleaned the air filter and changed the spark plug. Also bought a new battery. Does anyone have any other ideas or know any good trust worthy reliable mechanics in tucson az?

Did you check ur choke??

Have you checked valve clearance? I run .003 intake and .005 inch exhaust.

Is your gas valve vacuum operated or a petcock style?

Also make sure the two slip on connectors to the coil are tight and free of corrosion. A bad choke would not hurt starting as far as I remember it would make it run rich after it has warmed up. The choke/ fuel enrichment is open with no voltage and when it warms up it slowly closes due to the charging system voltage from the ballast resistor and heat from the engine.

I figured like some lawnmowers you have to pull the choke in order to start it once it starts you push the choke back in, I figure maybe that's the same theory on these buggys if the chokes not pulling out the motor wont start... idk.

Did check the choke, does have a petcock and no corrosion on the coil

For the heck of it loosen up ur gas cap all the way and see if it starts easier. Idk.

Ok good idea.. ill try that

If it still hard to start then its your valves they're not adjusted right. You may want to try. 004/ intake and. 005/ exhaused.

Nothing with the gas top of. How do I adjust the valves?

Go to youtube and type in how to do valve adjustment on a gy6... or go to buggypartsnw.com. click on info center.

Ok cool just watched a video seems pretty easy.. is the exhaust the top one or bottom one?

Bottom the valve closest to the exhaused where pipe connects to the head..

Adjusted the valves like recommended... nothing. one was alredy @.005 just adjusted the other one. I dont see anything wrong with carb. Its clean and nothing clogged. All wires all free of corrosion . Air filter is clean but looks a bit old. Changed spark plug a month ago and battery. I am going to buy a new coil as it is a bit lose at the spark plug level.i checked kindnme and the ones they have do not look like it will be an exact fit. Has anyone order from motorpartsmax.com? Site looks a bit Chinese but they have the exact one for my buggy. . But the do look a bit sketchy

Buy the orange high performance coil.. try syc. Or buggypartsnw.com

Ok, to recap, your issue is hard starting, followed by 15-20 minutes of bogging and lagging on acceleration, and when you pull the plug, it is covered in soot. Am I correct?

If so you have a rich condition, as stated above. The following checks have been done or made: Carb is clean and free of any debris, air filter is not clogged, all vacuum lines are routed properly to and from the carb and crankcase, spark plug is in like new condition, and a proper replacement plug??, verified coil and CDI connections and has good spark??, verified proper valve lash, and verified the choke works. Let me know if I missed something....

This leads me to 3 possible scenarios, the least likely would be low compression, but I think you said it runs ok after 15-20 minutes?? If so, unlikely, although a compression test would rule it out completely, and let you know exactly the condition of the engine. Scenario 2: plugged or restricted exhaust, you could rule it out by unbolting the head pipe and running it, if it clears up, gut that badboy, although still rather unlikely, unless it was burning oil at some point. Scenario 3: my personal thoughts, the pilot screw is backed out too far, letting too much fuel in. These GY6 carbs that have the mixture screw on the engine side of the butterfly, regulate the fuel, instead of air, like most other small engine carbs with the screw on the filter side of the butterfly. Screw it in a turn or so and see if anything changes. I had a similar issue with mine, and once I got it close, it seemed to fire right up and run ok, except at wide open, or if you let off and punched it again, which I think was the needle/main jet( I bumped it 1 setting on the rich side for the intake).

I hope this helps :cheers:

Masteryota, correct as recaped. I did check the color of the spark and its a yellowish clearish color. I red somewhere that it needs to spark blue? And the coil seems pretty old so im am going to purchase a new one (orange like recommended) I saw on the kidnme site they have the coil, air filter and the mainjet upgrade. Oh and a ngk spark plug. Would you recommend buying all that and replace it the old stuff?

Ah, yes, the spark should be a solid thick blue arc, anything other than that won't fare well inside the engine. It is always a good idea to have at least 1 back up plug while tuning, and it will likely match the recommendation of the coil. Since the main idea of this posting is more power, then its definitely a good starting point and can be used in conjunction with most other mods, should you choose do them.

I agree with masteryota... do with what he mentioned.

What size mainjet would u guys recommend?

First get the buggy running so you can do a wot test. Then after you do all the upgrades mentioned above its going to be trial and error. But lets get this running first. Your guess is as good as ours on what main jet to use :)... we'll all work together on it as soon as we cross that bridge. Fitst do what masteryota mentioned and hopefully that fixes the problem...Eddie.

Ok awesone guys thanks a lot. Really appreciate the great feed back and help. I will he ordering this upgrade tomorrow and hopefully have it by monday. I will keep you posted.. thanks again

Ok guys one more thing... today I tried to turn on my buggy to put it back into the garage for the weekend and when I try to turn it on.... it cranks cranks cranks and does not turn on and then this clicking sound cones from the black box where the cdi is located. I opened it ajd it seems the clicking sound is coming from a small cylinder like battery with the red wire from the battery connected to it and other red wires also... what is that and can that be the problem?

That is your cylinoid. And you may need to charge your battery,as it ,any be too low to turn the motor over

Do the cylinoids normally go out? And should I replace it or just charge the battery

Should I replace it or charge the battery first? Thanks masterbates

Charge the battery first, if it still clicks then it might be faulty, more than likely its just run down from trying to start it.

Charge ur battery there may not be anything wrong with ur starter relay. After you charge it if it keeps on clicking and not starting check ur inline fuse if the fuse is good bypass the starter relay with a screwdriver. If she starts then its a bbad relay(selinoid) replace it. But charge ur battery first.

When bypassing ur relay with screwdriver remember ur ignition key must be on position.

Its 50/50. Them going out is not uncommon.but best just check the battery first

Bought a battery charger, charged it and nothing..I have given up.. now it wont even turn. It turns for a sec reving it and when the pedal is pushed all the way in it turns off.

Did you try checking the fuse and bypassing the starter relay???

Yes I did .. sorry I forgot to reply to that. I have super cleaned the carb agan. Checked the fuel line and charged the battery

Also when you turn your key on you said the motor turns slowly. And you put a new battery.hmmm you may have a bad starter.idk. try the screwdriver thing on that cylenoid and see what happens.

Ok give me a few .. im going to try it

No still the same thing. . I loosened tue main jet a bit bc I had tighten it too much. Now I have a blue spark but still does not turn on

May be a weak starter. Will wait for someone to chime in on how to check if starter is bad. Its still turning slow even with new battery then it must be a weak starter...

Ok thanks a lot eddi. Ill wait for a response

Make sure the ground wire has a good conection at the engine case and the electrical box. Also while someone cranks the motor lightly wiggle the carb to see if the intake boot may have a leak. My dune 150 we picked up for 400 bucks had two problems a bad intake boot that had me trying the good carb off my wifes buggy with same results, until I got it running and it would die with any throttle. I got it to run a bit with a choppy idle and for some reason I wiggled the carb and it ran better. The intake was cracked and you could not see it. Replaced the intake and it ran better but you had to punch the gas to get it to go.

It wasn't until I removed the head to port it I found when putting the valves back in that the intake valve was bent from the previous owner, because I would never over rev the engine. Maybe just one time, but after putting new valves in it runs like a champ.

I wish you had another buggy to test with, that is how I fix most our problems by having two alike buggys and lots of spare parts. Does any body in you neighborhood have a gy6 150cc atv scooter or buggy you can try a starter or carb?

Just for heck of it back ur buggy up to ur car connect jumper cables from car battery to ur buggys. Without starting ur car leave ur car off jumpstart ur buggy with car battery.... see what happens.

If your buggy turns fast as it should then your new battery is not up to par... charge it.

Hi Johnny. No unfortunately buggys are not common where I live. Everyone has rhinos and golf carts. I did check the intake for any cracks as some one else suggested but it didn't have any.i have honestly tried everything I can think of and many suggestions. I am not a mechanic but I am pretty handy and not scared to take something apart.i honestly dont know what else to check for.. recap. . Cleaned carb, adjusted valves, charged battery, full tank of gas, clean air filter, checked gas line, adjusted coil for better connection with spark plug and got blue spark. What really gets me is that I bet it is something really simple and I will have to pay someone 200+ bucks to come get it done for me. Really appreciate everyone's input and suggestions. ... still open to try anything and suggestions

Ok ill try that now

Hi guys! Hope all is well ..i think i found the prob. i took off the carb one more time and and left off the air filter completely! (had done that before) but when i was attaching the carb to the intake manifold and wiggled it a bit. It turned on without any problems, so i think the manifold might have a crack somewhere. So now I going to order the manifold and an updgraded airfilter.. THANKS FOR THE HELP

This might be the wrong forum but what do you guys think about joyner trooper t2 1100cc 2008 for 6k. How hard is it to find parts for it?

Start a new forum you'll get better help on that question.

yeah sounds good. Thanks for your help eddie!

Ok guys me again.. Its not the main instake manifold.. replaced it and it still doing the same thing.. Heres one thing tho.. i was able to get it to turn on only by removing the air filter and sparying engine started into the carb where the air filter fits. Do i need to replace the carb or could it just be dirty. I did clean it a lot of times and it was pretty clean . What can it be. But at least it turns on and stays on when i do that

and by the way its the old filter i have to remove in order for it to start, i have not received the new air filter

I'd start with taking it apart and cleaning and making sure all is well there! if it will stay running with starting fluid, it's definitly a supply issue!

thanks bear I will do that

Make sure all of the passages are clean, and remove the jets and make sure they are not clogged. I had issues with mine moving junk around and clogged the pilot again after I cleaned it thoroughly. Finally got it to idle the 3rd time I cleaned it....

Some swear by the torch tip cleaners to clean out jets, but be careful as they can actually open up the jet slightly, I use some 18ga electrical wire and strip it back about an inch and use individual strand of wire to clean the jet holes and pilot/emulsion tube.

Remove your fuel line from the carb and see if you are getting fuel through it. If so it could also be a stuck float needle or float adjusted too low. Just a few things to check because as mentioned if it runs with starter fluid then you are not getting gas.