Roketa GK-13 Not starting
 

I was running the GK13 and week ago and then it just stalled and i couldn't start it. i think it ran out of gas. then a few day's ago i put gas in and it won't start. when i pump the gas it sound's like it want to start but it won't. i look at the electric box with the cdi relay Solenoid the replay when i shake it sound's like something is broke inside and i changed the fuse on the Solenoid cause it looked like it was blown. it still won't start i even put in another cdi box and coil i had and still nothing. so i started to adjust the valve's and gas started to come out of the exust. so now i quit i don't want to blow something or anything. here is a pic of the reply if someone can tell me if i can just go to autozone and get one from a car will it work and would that cause the buggy to not start? also the pic of the engine the green wire that plugs into something in the engine is broke the part that the wire from the carb i think just come's out with the wire still attached.

Does anyone has i wire diagram for the GK-13"

that looks like the starter Solenoid relay . and yes u can get one from the auto parts . most will have 5 pins but u can pop the center pin off if your connector doesnt have that pin . but this will only keep the starter from working . it sounded to me like your starter was working . the green wire at the head is the temp sender to the gauge . and if you have raw fuel coming out your exhaust. sounds like your float is stuck open u also need to check the oil b/c if u have fuel in the exhaust im sure u have some in the oil . witch means youll need to change it be fore running it .

ok i drained out the oil and put fresh oil back in and it sound's like it wants to start when i tap on the gas pedal So i don't know what's going on will have to save up some cash to take it to someone to check it out for me

Did u clean the carb ? If the float is sticking it needs to be cleaned . Also pull the spark plug and use compressed air or be care full and heat the tip of the plug it sounds like it mite be flooded while u have the plug out also turn the motor over to clear the cylinder before reinstalling

Couldn't make out your pics, they were dark and fuzzy. Try re posting the pics with some more light. I believe you said it run out of gas and you refueled and would not start after that. How old was the gas? Keep in mind fresh gas means it was purchased from a station that moves a good amount of gas and hasn't set up in the can for more than 2 weeks. If the gas is clear it's good if yellow it's bad. This is if your using regular ethanol branded gas. I will not use ethanol blended gas in anything carbureted. Last you had mentioned that after adjusting the valves gas started coming out of the exhaust. Sounds like you did not have the engine on top dead center. With piston at top of cylinder the lobes on the cam should be pointing downward, 2 slash marks on cam sprocket should be parallel with top of head and large hole in cam sprocket should point strait up. Oh and one last thing, if engine is cranking the solenoid is good.

Well i think why the gas was coming out was cause i was holding my had over the carb to see if that would start the engine. on the GK13 the valve adjustment are outside of the engine on the side. i would have to take the cover off to see the valves etc. I'm going to post a video of me trying to start it. the gas i put in was fresh i got it a day or 2 before i put it in the buggy and it was clear. the relay i think it goes to the light's on the top of the buggy and the front of the buggy. i can repost better pics if you think i should. i went to autozone and got one and it didn't seems to matter.

Here is a link to a video i took trying to get the buggy started

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=emxjF0mlFKQ

So nothing else i can do check? Guess i'll take it to the pro and have them see what's wrong

did u check for spark at the plug ?

Even though the adjustment is in the cover the engine has to be in time to set the valves. On the 250 there is a plug on the crank case cover. Marks are hard to see on flywheel so you have to look very carefully. Line the mark up with cut slot in threads plus screws into. An easier way is to bring piston all the way up to TDC. Pull valve cover and make sure cam is lined up as previously posted. If not either piston is not at TDC or timing chain jumped. I have seen tensioners go bad causing timing to jump. With cover on loosen 6mm adjusting bolts and move adjuster until resistance is felt than back off 1 mark. As stated above, make sure you have spark. Pull plug, connected to wire ground body of plug to cover and crank engine. Spark should be a bright blue.

Yep while i was holding the plug to a medal part :)

ok i'll give that a shot. i have to take the cv cover off correct?

yes that way u can turn the motor over by hand to line up the marks

Yes to removing cover , rotate engine using variator. The plug for timing marks will be on opposite side. Usually they are chrome. The slot will be different from the average screw since it will not be flat. I think a nickel is too wide but a penny will definitely fit the slot. They make a bit for that but not sure where to get them. I took an old screwdriver and ground the tip to fit. Sometimes they could be in there tight and a pain to remove. So an easier way would be to remove the spark plug, using something to gauge as you turn engine to show you when the piston is at TDC. I use a piece of wood dowel. Than remove your valve cover and check the alignment of the cam with piston at TDC to make sure the engine did not jump time. If you should have further questions please feel free to give me a call. Many times it is easier to just talk the problem out. I can talk much quicker than I can type.

dont forget the oil line needs to be loosen to allow room for the plug to be removed . here is some reference pics

Thanx DRAGONFIRE81M and SYCARMS's for the help i will check it out and let you guy's know whats up.

Well i tried but couldn't get it but i think it might of jumped. in the port i can see 2 straight lines how do i know if it's tdc between the 2 straight lines or before or after. i also saw what to look like something was rubbing on one spot on the side when i look in the port.

the best way to know for sure is to do what sycarms said and put something like a wood pencil . u may not hit it the first time but if you watch and feel for then then piston tops out then u will see witch line is the closest .

Note the rotation of the motor when cranking with key. With the rotation known as you rotate the engine the first mark is fire this is when the cdi tells the coil to fire. The second will be TDC.

ok so if the marking's on the cam don't match tdc then i have to fix the timing by taking the chain off and putting the cam so the lines match the case and the hole is in the middle

Yes but it may not be that simple . U could have a stretched chain or a bad chain tensioner . There has to be a reason for it to jump time

Agree: Grab the chain mid sprocket and pull strait up. It should barely move up on the sprocket. If loose check the chain guides and tensioner. Tensioners are known to go bad from time to time. Pull tensioner and check that it stays in the extended position. Also make sure the tensioner spring is not broken or missing. If tensioner is good then check the chain guides by pulling head. If they are good then the chain has stretched.

I check the chain and tensioner and everything is fine with it. i set the timing i think i might be off a tooth should that matter? and still can't get this thing to start.

Give me a call when you can 662-301-1563 if I don't answer make sure you leave a message. Or you can give me your number with a good tim to call and I'll call you.

ok i'll give you a call Sunday if that is ok with you. if not tell me what would be good for you

Sunday is fine after 1PM.

OK I went and got a compression tester and tested the 250cc and i'm only getting 40 i did it twice 8 times each with the gas pedal down all the way and it never went past 40. So i guess she is done? I think i ran the battery down so i might need a new one also

Now get you a squirt can with some motor oil in it and pull plug to squirt 3-4 squirts in the cylinder then repeat the compression test. If compression goes up it is your rings, if it stays the same it will be in the valves.

OK thanx will give that a try tomorrow

Ok i did what you said to do and it shot right up to 120. so that mean's i need new rings? while i'm in there should i just replace everything?

Rings are worn. on the cheap you could re-ring the old piston and hone the cylinder and get a little more life out of it as long as the original parts are in good condition. Or buy a topend kit with a new jug, piston, rings and gaskets and put it all in.

The cylinders are made of some really hard and durable cast iron so unless the cylinder is scored there would be no need to replace the cylinder. If you hone the cylinder all you want is to break the glaze and not remove any material. A new set of quality rings should do the trick.

Going from running to 20 psi seems like either a ring got stuck or a ring broke. Now that you have 120 psi will it start?

No it wouldn't start. i reset the tester and it went back to 40 psi

DO you know a good place i can order the rings at? or can i just get any kind for a 250cc engine?

Give me a call 662-301-1563 or e-mail me tom@sycpowersports.com. I have them in stock.

Ok so i went out and took the engine apart to check out the piston rings etc. below is the pics of what i found, looks like the couple side's is scratched.

pics continue.

Looks like lean meltdown.

Either that or grossly overheated. Most all these 250 buggies have either a buzzer alarm or a tiny overheat light. The alarm most times cannot be heard while driving, especially while wearing a helmet and the light could at times be hard to see. Nothing like a gauge which is why my 250's have them.

The PO must of took it out or it never came with one. So do i need to get the piston and cylinder? what would be a good gauge to get to install?

I only knew of one 250 buggy that come with gauges and that was the Blade. Everyone else uses either an alarm or a light on the dash.O'Reilly's or Auto Zone will have them usually around $20.00.