New trailmaster 150cc xrx
 

Hello all,

I just bought a new trailmaster 150cc xrx for my son for Christmas. I was only able to ride it 4 blocks down to my fathers garage to hide until then. I did notice that the brake pedal felt firm but didn't seem to stop that great. I know with emergency brake engaged I could still push it back and forth with little effort.

1. Is it common to have to bleed the brakes on new buggy and adjust emergency brake or are these things not able to stop as quick as I'm thinking?figured I would be able to lock the rears up on the dirt road. I really didn't have time to experiment just something I noticed.

2. When checking if it had gas in it so I could drive it to fathers house, there is no gas gauge. Figured even a fuel sight line at best. Have you guys found a gas cap with fuel gauge in it that fit? Would be better than taking cap off and looking Into a dark tank to see where it's at all the time until I figure out how good it is on gas.

I'll have some free time to go mess with it again Monday after work. Plan on checking brakes, changing/flushing engine oil and gear case oil, checking all the bolts and nuts, more zip ties on all the wires dangling around and just looking over good before Christmas Day.

welcome to the sight. From what ive seen the xrx model is the top model from trail master im very surprised it doesn't come with a fuel guage? maybe some one else can chime in. As far as breaks breaks do eventually wear in just like when you put new brakes on your car but wouldn't hurt to bleed them a little more yourself just to see if there's improvement

The emergency brake on these buggies are a lot like the ones on most 4 wheelers. If you adjust them to work properly, it causes the pads to wear prematurely. It should have an adjustment bolt with a locknut on the outside of the caliper. You loosen the locknut and turn the bolt in until it just touches the pad. Then tighten the locknut down. If you adjust it to work well, you will most likely find it will need to be adjusted often to keep it that way.

I will tighten emergency brake a little more because with it on , it was rolling back and forth in back of truck while bringing it home. I was surprised about no fuel gauge also. I will figure out something. I really enjoy DIY mods. Maybe a fuel sight line will be best. I'll see what other brands might have on them that might be simple add on.

First mods will be making the driver side fit my 7 yr old son. Could have bought the smaller buggy but then I couldn't fit in passenger side to keep an eye on him. I bought another set of pedals and plan on setting them closer for him while using push rods so they push on stock pedals. Thinking I can make them fold down flat when disconnected so that I can drive also. It already has adjustable seat that slides back farther than I need so might move that up as well. Have to wait for Christmas to size him up then my fun begins.

the modding never ends once u start on these buggies wish you best of luck

When adjusting the hand brake, use a .003" feeler gauge and adjust until you have a snug fit between pad and rotor. This will stop the drag and premature ware on the pads. Also check the pedal play at the master cylinder. You should have slight play when pushing pedal before master cylinder piston moves. If adjusted too tight, you will have a hard pedal but due to heat build up the brakes will fade. You will need to do a complete check of all bolts and fluids as well as checking adjustments. This is the main reason a reputable dealer charges more as compared to an online purchase. Expect to spend 2-3 hours to completely check the entire buggy out. Total time to set a buggy up for turn key sale to a customer is about 5 hours on average. If you take the time to do a complete job you will find a much more reliable buggy.

Thanks. I spent 3 hours today checking bolts and re routing the wires and a bag of zip ties. The place I got it from just threw it together. Had a few lose bolts. Next weekend I'll go through it with blue locktite. I found the adjustment screw by hand brake handle was very lose so twisted a few times and now the buggy harder to push while engaged. I'll check out what you said to do also. Tomorrow after work Im going to go through it again to make sure I didn't miss anything.

I had to install the top lights on it to. They tried to sell them to me when I went to pick it up. I just showed them the brochure they handed me the week before and said I paid for those already while pointing at the picture. Ha. They walked in the back and handed me the bag of parts and lights.

I'm not really seeing any info on a break in procedure. I just ran it slow a few passes up and down the road then parked it to work on it. Might do it a few more tomorrow before I change the oil. Figured on Christmas day ill change oil again after we park it for the night. Not sure when I can start getting on it to see what it can do. Any advice would be great.

To break it in you will want to drive the buggy for about 3-4 hours with some hard accelerations but not over 3/4 throttle. Many will say this is not needed but after building several engines the ones I run on the stand will show up to 10 psi more on compression as compared to no break-in time. During break in you will want the oil that come in the engine since it is a break in oil. After running it for the break in period you will drain the oil when warm letting it drain completely. Refill with a good quality 15W40 ATV, Motorcycle, or V-Twin oil which is designed for air cooled engines. I personally prefer full synthetic oil but a good grade non synthetic oil is all that is needed.

Thanks a lot. I'll try to get that done tomorrow.

I put 8psi a tire as manual says. They seem hard as a rock. Is this what you guys run in your tires ?

They probably have 6 ply tires on it which will be stiff. Make sure your gauge is correct.

Just got a new low psi gauge to make sure. I must say the seats are a little less than to be desired. I read many threads about not much luck on different shocks but I bet a better seat would help some.

Welcome to the fun!
I love my XRX, it ran great out of the box and the only real problem I had when it was stock was premature bearing failure on the rear axle. It's just my opinion that quality bearings should be THE FIRST mod done on these buggies..:biggrin:

Thanks. I'll look into that.

and yeah, the seats blow. I took out the passenger seat so I could put guns and gear there, but I'm thinking of getting a racing seat, but they don't look to comfy either..

When my vinyl started to tear in the seams I checked into having it reupholstered but turned out to be more than a new seat cost. I ended up going with one from Jegs for 149.00 free shipping. You can either buy the universal fit rails or as I had done , modify mine to fit. If your short and drive with the seat moved up you can take advantage of the seat back tilt. But one nice feature I like is the seat will fold fwd. which is a friendly option when adjusting valves. A stock Kinroad seat which were the best seats used in these buggies run about 90.00 but the shipping will kill you. I love my new seat whereas I will be replacing in other buggies as they either wear or break. Just make sure you order all vinyl. These will have the high bolsters for better comfort.

Is there enough room for replacing both seats with the jegs units? If you get a chance, I would like to see a pic. I would like to eventually change out the seats, but want something that feels good and looks good.

yes would like to see a pic also. That's sounds perfect. I'm definetly shopping for seats.

Sycarms,
Are these the seats you're talking about?
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...oductId=755323

Went to the link and seen the description but no picture of seat. Scrolled down and 3 seats were shown. The center one @ $159.00 is what I got but I bought it when it was on sale. The number on the center seat has a different P/N than the one at top with no picture.

That one states that it's a replacement for the "Dodge Drag Pack" so I assumed it used a different mounting system and the unpictured one was the universal.. I'll email Jegs and ask.. Thanks!

Not sure what the stock # of mine was, mine looks like the one pictured. They should have a pic on their site somewhere cause it's in their new catalog.

How the heck do you post pics? I started my double pedal creation. Thought I'd post some pics along the way

The only way I know is with a photobucket account. It doesn't cost anything to have one.

use the "go advanced" button below the message box, click "manage attachments", then "browse", then "open" and when the upload is finished, "submit reply" unless your using one of those smart phone things, in which case i haven't a clue ... my phone is so dumb, when i ran it over with the dump truck,it still came back to work ...

Your X-bird is showing.

Hey wild bob, how's the brakes on your xrx? I went though mine bleeding the lines and all but they really just don't seem to stop for nothing. More a slight slowing down is the best I'm getting. I even pulled a vacuum on the rear bleeder valve and pulled fluid through it while keeping the master full to make sure no air. im missing something or the brake setup on these really bad?

Got my second set of pedals installed for my son so he can drive. I'll try some pics in a few

Pics

Finished

I guess they're okay, it'll lock up the wheels. Mine need to be bled though

Wonder what's going on with mine. No way my wheels would come close to locking up.

dam came out good

Thanks. I hope he can reach them now. I'll find out tomorrow. I'm going to put the governor screw on gas pedal I added. That way it's slow for him then when I fold them down for me I have full throttle.

I don't know a lot about brakes. When I mash the pedal it seems very hard right off the bat. I wonder if something going on with mater cylinder.

Have you checked this yet?

I didn't do the feeler gauge. I checked the 2 rods that go into master. Slight play. I can't tell the difference when mashing brake pedal or pulling the hand brake. They both barely slow me to a stop. The hand brake being cable should pull that piston to the rotor even if I had air in the lines correct?

My petal is pretty firm, but I had to open the valves because "somebody" might have push the petal while the brakes were off the rotor.. :biggrin: and then needed to get the calipers back open..:cussing:as for the e-brake.. the cable connection to my rear brake assembly has been the recipient of so many kinetic impacts that I'm surprised it's still attached..

Nice.

Thanks. Tried it today. Was a success. He drove great. Might raise the seat couple inches for him. Shouldn't mess with me driving either.

Great job on the pedals!!!! I can see that huge smile right through his helmet.

Nice clean modification. Those pedals are a great idea.

Thanks!! Hey can one of ya tell me real quick. Just changed oil. Do I check dipstick not screwed in? I check not screwed in and about 1/16th above full. If I'm supposed to screw in I might need to extract a bit.

Screw it all the way in it should read full, if u just stick it in without screwing it in u want it to be half way.

Thank you sir. I better take some out. I went about 30oz.

when I change oil on anything I run it for a couple minutes so its warm no super hot. Then jack it up and jack up the one side higher so all the old oil really gets out, that's just me though. Once u fill it though get ur reading run it for about 3 minutes let it sit then for a little then check ur dipstick again!

Yeah did that. Idled it a few, let it sit then checked. I finally got to try that oil extractor I bought 5 yrs ago. Works good.

Was going to do the gear oil also but don't see the full screw. I'm guessing like an outboard fill from bottom till comes out the top. I'll check that out during daylight. Hope it's not behind that clutch cover. If that's what it's called. Still learning.

Draining the gear oil is easy it's directly under the rear gears, the fill is a pain as its on the rear but to fill it it's facing sideways, I use one of those little hand pumps from auto zone to fill it.

I have one of those for boat. I just didn't see the full bolt. Thanks again for the help on oil. Sittin back lookin at it over a cold one. Many ideas brewin!!

Lol I love that xrx model I wish they would make it in a single seater.

I use one I purchased ay WallMart , it's basically a syringe all plastic used for measuring the oil for mixed 2 cycle fuel. The 10mm screw will be on side at rear of cvt cover. You will know it for it has a either a red plastic or aluminum seal under the bolt. You will fill with buggy on level ground until it starts running out. Just like a rear end on most cars and trucks. You will want to use a low viscosity gear oil. I personally recommend full synthetic but any good grade of gear lube will do the job.

I can say so far pleased. It's perfect for riding along with my son and teaching. Let him drive me out in the woods today and took me off a ditch that puckered me up but it handled better than I thought. Him laughing was priceless. Ha. I definetly would like to get a fixer up though. To me that's just as fun if not more bringing ideas to life.

These things are addicting.

I bought 80w90 for gears. Didn't go synthetic yet figured a few more hours with that then go synthetic motor oil and gears.

Give it a few months and I'll be buggin ya guys with questions on performance upgrades.

Any pics of that seat sycarms? I searched Internet but most seem to be 21". Could only go 18" from what I can see.

I can't find my receipt, probably got rid of it. I did buy the seat from Jegs. It listed for 159.00 but I bought it on sale for 149.00. My original seat was 20" at widest part, the new seat is 22" wide and fit with room to spare about 1" each side between bolster and frame. I just had a coupon around Thanksgiving 20% off purchases of 150.00 or more, and that seat was shown in the flyer. It will ask what inserts you want either vinyl or cloth. Naturally you will want the vinyl. My seat has a recline lever which does me no good since my seat is all the way back up against the bars but seat has a natural incline to it. What I do like is the lever to fold the seat forward, helps when working on the head, no need to remove the seat.

Just looked online and come up with P/N 555-70240 $159.99 shipped. Widest part of seat is 22.5". Same seat and features as one I have except this comes with the runners to fit a dodge. You will have to look for the universal seat which comes without runners and with slight mod fit your runners to the seat or use the runners that come on that seat and mod to fit your existing seat mounting holes.

watch for overfilling your trans/gear oil. look for a capacity cast into the gear/engine case, should be the volume followed by "ml" (85ml) etc. It usually isn't much

Thanks I'll check into that. I never measured gear oil input. Always had a fill bolt hole to go by. Sycarms I wonder if they are measuring width of cushion or frame of seat? I was just measuring the room in mine from bar to bar. Had 36" to fit 2 seats in. If some of that measurement they sell as is cushion I might could squeeze it in but hard to say.

I found a bolt that says fill for the gear oil.75L. I guessing I woulnt fill from bottom till it comes out there. That would seem to be a lot. Is that just to fill with pre measured amount? I took a pic you can see an arrow molded next to it.

That is the correct amount to put in case .75L. My apology for when I posted last on this topic I was referring to the older style gy6 with the external reverse. The final drive is totally different on yours.

No problem. You guys been helping. I just measured out the amount and filled it. That fill bolt not easy to get to. Had to get creative filling also. But it's done and took it for a little harder ride. I'm definetly liking it. Except for that 1/16th padding seat!! Ha

Have a stupid question. I see the open air filters they offer to help air restriction. Couldnt water get into that? Rain, puddles etc. here in Florida it rains while the Suns out. Just curious.

You would use a waterproof outerwear.

Ahh. See I haven't seen that on Internet. Would have to re jet the main? Would that give a little more bottom end? My boy is attracted to climbing small hills but slow. It don't feel so good on the engine.

Wouldn't waterproof outerwear be same restriction as factory box set up?

NO it would not

to help with hill climb I recommend a 10 gram roller in the cvt gearing, it doesn't give more power which a lot of people miss understand, it changes the ratio of the pulley and clutch system giving a increase in rpms. Its like the cheapest and easiest mods to do. Some people also use sliders which i use also even a 10 gram slider would help you. After you do this mod and with the intake you want to do it will help a little. A ported head, cam, and ported stock manifold will really help. Theres so many cam options for this engines which is great which can really help with ur hill climbing and down low power. It never ends your going to keep tweaking. :cheers:

Ok do the sliders or weights just make it keep a higher rpm before it moves or while moving? The hills are not big. Just looking for some more go without straining motor

the rpms will be higher with a lower gram roller or slider, sliders do last longer. Theres aftermarket cdi ignitions also to help allow the engine climb higher rpms

So with that, I give gas but it don't kick in till later rpm? Same engine just rev higher before I roll? Trying to understand it

It's going to kick in quicker, take off will be increased, the pedal will feel more responsive right after the mod till u get used to it, go with some 10 gram rollers its about $15 bucks shipped for them, might lose 1 or 2 mph on top end but it's well worth it ! You will thank me later

I'll give it a try. Thanks!

Already got a noisy rear axle bearing! Guess I'm down till I get another. That didn't last long.

Reb read post #13 on here again.

Yeah I remembered that post. I sent him a message to see what ones he upgraded to. Figure they last more that about 5 days riding.

wow that stinks, no warranty on that since you just bought it? Order those 10 gram rollers or sliders while your at it lol

Yeah 30 day warrenty but I dont want the same bearings to put back into it. Is there a big difference in the dr pulley variator with sliders or just stick with stock variator? Going to order bearings and 10 gr sliders today. Trying to research it all.

I tried one aftermarket variator it was called koso and for some reason didn't work out at all for me. As far as my testing the stock variator works fine. I know some of them are made bigger but then they rub and hit the cvt case, and you have to trim here and there. Keep the stock variator and play with the rollers and maybe a clutch upgrade with stiffer springs.

Meant to also ask did you remove the stock air box and put a open filter on it?

No would have to order that also

the filter is a nice upgrade well worth the $$ along with the rollers

I was impatient and drilled my stock rollers to get them down to 11 grams IIRC. Hate waiting for something in the mail..lol I went up 2 index drill sizes at a time and weighed them on my kitchen digital scale. Don't tell my girl..lol

LMFAO! I rather spend the $10 bucks on new ones lol

I was riding later that day and had to have MOAR TORQUE :biggrin:

Got the new bearing in and the 10 gr rollers. Definitely liking the 10 gr but I ordered some 11 g sliders just to see. It seems I lost 5 mph on top end. I know there's a trade off but I'll see how the 11g ones do.

Sliders and rollers act different. A 10 gram roller wont engage at the same rpm as a 10 g slider.
I don't remember which one is higher or lower I just remember there is a difference.

it should pull off the line a lot better and climb the hills like u said u needed. 5mph top end sounds a little high but it is give and take so find your sweet spot that you like.

Yeah it's definetly better on trails in the woods and going up the hills. Was curious on 11grams but ordered the sliders not knowing they acted different than rollers. I just though maybe smoother transition. They came in the mail today. I'll try them out this weekend.

I saw a variator that took 2 sets of rollers. For lows and highs. Is that really the best of both worlds or was I reading it wrong?

The sliders do engage easier and don't wear out as fast as rollers.

Been out riding with my son and noticed a clicking sound out the right. Figured was that bearing since I didn't change it. I changed it out but still hearing it. Kinda a click click then pause then click click again if I push it around. Any ideas?

check brakes and chain

Yeah I was just checking that. I tried to upload a video. Trying to figure that out so you guys can hear it.

Almost sounds like it's trying to go into gear but it makes that even pushing in gear

the video would not work. it said it had been renamed or removed by you.

My antivirus won't let me open it.