Engine id location
 

I am trying to find the engine id #’s to order a bbk kit and parts on an asw scorpion.
I know it’s supposed to be on the front lower left, but it’s not. Completely blank.
Front lower right has “gy6 .7ltr”. That’s the only stamping I could find. Haven’t pulled clutch cover yet.
The engine was ran low on oil and locked up on the trail. I’ve pulled the head and jug to find some really nice scarring on piston and sleeve.
How can I check the crank for damage without pulling? Seems to turn ok.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks. :stupid:

Duh!!!!!!
 

I found them on top left center above the clutch cover under a thick layer of oxidation.
Turns out to be JL1P57F.
Will normal 61mm big bore parts work?
What about cam and crank?

First a 61mm cylinder will require the case to be bored. There are some kits out there claiming that they are drop in. Do not buy. On those kits they turn down the cylinder sleeve which makes it too thin and does not last long for the sleeve cracks. Stick with the 58.5 kit which is a true drop in cylinder. If the pin can be removed from the piston with ease the crank should be good. If the pin is difficult to remove like having to use a punch to knock it out than check the rod for any scoring. That engine with internal reverse uses a different crank than the common GY6 so they won't work.

Thanks a bunch. Saved me time and money.
What about cam? Will a normal a12 work? Probably not.

A12 cam is good, just depends what type terrain and how you like to drive. Where you located?

I live in south ga.
Not many hills, plenty of mud and sand.
My kids drive it around neighborhood and surrounding trails.
It will do 40 with me in it, wouldn’t mind loosing some top end in exchange for low end tire spinning torque.
Would like to put slightly larger tires on it seeing as all 4 are now slicks.

The A-12 cam will be a good choice with a 58.5 big bore. I would also say a good quality performance head with larger valves and runners. You can top the new head with a port and polish. This will increase power best for the money spent There will also be other things you will also want to tweak. Just to make absolutely sure you have the proper engine for the parts, pull your valve cover and measure two studs diagonally center to center. If you get 3" your all good but if it measures 3 1/8" than performance parts will not work in that engine. Feel free to give me a call 662-301-1563 and I can give you a bunch more information much quicker than me typing.

Many, many, thanks my friend!!!:cheers:

Would the carb need re jetting with the 58.5 mod?

More air needs more fuel, bigger cylinder means more air is sucked in

Definitely..

Got it all back together, turn key and nothing.
Checked all connections. No joy.
The engine turns over if I jump starter wire straight to battery.
Solenoid has juice but doesn’t click.
Any tips?
Checking solenoid harness between the red and yellow wires I have 4 ohms. Normal?

What buggy do you have?

Asw scorpion. 6150

Go to Americanlandmaster.com Click owners, manuals and fun karts. Chose 6150. You can download or copy the service manual. This will have step by step directions to check and repair the engine transmission and wiring schematics. Great manual.

Thanks. Think I found it. Had a burnt connector.
Got it running. A little sluggish. Waiting on jet kit and uni filter.
What’s normal operating temp?

I've been chasing those all over the place. I finally gave up "fixing" the factory ones and started replacing every one I can with waterproof ones. Leaving stuff like the engine replaceables (cdi, stator, etc) but swapped everything else.

Took an afternoon because I took my time, pulled the entire harness out, and went through it one wire at a time. Took the tape off everything, fixed the cold solder joints, heat shrink instead of tape, and moved on. I also replaced the main power wire going to my key switch with quality 12 gauge awg.

After I was done it seems to crank up easier and the lights are brighter. I swapped everything over to leds when I got the buggy.


I don't have a temp gauge installed yet but measuring the temps on the head (with a temp gun) running around the pasture I've seen around 212 - 280F. Been holding off running it wide open for a very long run until I get my gauge cluster finished and installed.

320-360 Degrees. This is why it is important to make sure the fins are clean and the shroud fits good

What size jets should I try first?

What all have you done to the motor?

58.5 piston and head.
Orange coil and plug.
New exhaust.
Uni and jets on the way.
Looking for a decent dc cdi.
Diving into cvt after its running right again.

.124-.126 main and 40 pilot jet. The stock cdi is designed for the heavier buggy. The stock cdi is best for the heavier buggy. Performance cdi's are all designed for the lighter scooters. Timing map is different in buggies compared to scooters.

Good to know about cdi.
Thanks for all the help.
Will let y’all know how she works out.

Finally jot it all back together. Starts great, idles great, torque is not there and a bit jerky and popping when running like its running out of gas. Can’t seem to get wot.
Any guesses?

Do a WOT run for at least 400 feet . AT end don't let off throttle, keep it wide open and cut engine off. Coast to side and when engine dies let your foot off the full throttle position. Have your plug wrench with you and remove the plug. What color is the tip and porcelain as well as the base of threads. If white it's running lean, if black it's running rich. Tan to medium brown is good and will not be the cause of the problem. Let us know what you find.

Was running a tad rich, but on a hunch swapped out the 6 month old orange coil for the original. She runs like a raped ape now. Totally different machine.
Next up is cvt.
And tires. Kids are slinging donuts.

Great to hear.