Quick release steering wheel
 

I'm sure a few old racers will chime in here, but I am thinking about a quick release steering wheel for my new Dazon. As always, I see lots of info on the interwebs, but I would like real world advise and recommendations here.

This should be simple, no horn or anything, so no wiring needed. If something transpires and I like it, it will likely be going the Yerf as well.

If I can find / ask Ckau he will know where to get one ,hes got one on his Yerf.

IDK if this is just me not ALWAYS nitpicking my buggy apart and driving it 2 the limit, but why would you want this?

Obviously you are not a tall/big bloke, or you would understand. @6'3" and 300lbs, I need all the extra leg room for entry and exit into these buggies. The Yerf has a bit more leg room, but traversing over the frame with the centered seat has it's difficulties.

And I'm off to dig up his thread. I really would have liked to speak with him while I was up there, but oh well. I found some cheaper ones on sandparts.com, but I am leery of cheap steering parts.

I called and asked Van tonight , he said Charlie got the wheel from Summitt racing !

from what i found, you'll need to fab on a coupler/adapter shaft at some point to increase the steering shaft to the correct diameter. the few that i found that fit the stock yerf shaft (i use a spiderbox shaft) seemed too chintzy for offroad buggy usage.

I found some 3/4 and 5/8 couplers, both in hex and splines, I have yet to measure the shaft sizes, although I think it might be 1/2". I feel the splines would hold better, due to increased contact patch, but who knows. I am ok with making something if needed for the long haul, as you can see I'm no stranger to fabb'n.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/270-2017/10002/-1

LOL I'm actually 6'1". I'm just 150lbs and a teenager. That's the diff. Haha. I have had to do some contortionist moves to get it sometimes, but typically it's no prob.

i think the yerf is 5/8 and the better QR hubs are made for 3/4t. At some point along the shaft you need to make the diameter change or find a 2-size universal joint (3/4-5/8) for the rack end of the shaft if you keep the yerf rack.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Alumin...nch,29178.html

Well I measured the Dazon shaft today, and it is a hair over 3/4, so the 3/4 unit will work for that.

As for the Yerf, I was thinking of sleeving a portion of the upper shaft to get it to the thickness needed. Also thinking of adding an actual bearing or bushing at the top most column mount for added support. If I do the Yerf, I may also look at shortening the shaft and column while I am there, and making the column straight, instead of offset.

If said sleeve was made long enough to to go in the bearing and also the QR hub, I don't see that failing unless I start juicing, and I can't afford that. :banana:

Looks like you guys GOT THIS ! :swordfight: Sooo ... Im out !
But call if you need any parts. Later...:D

I think it is a great idea. Some of us like buggies and food. I put my old circle track seat in mine ,because at 6 ft. 300lbs spderbox is tight I still have the shaft for quick release steering,just have not got around to getting everything together.

great idea
tim

Oh yea , the quick release is definitely a handy item. Especially for those larger than life people. I'm 6'4", 235lbs. Plenty of room inside the cage but entry and exit are a tricky maneuver. I don't bend and flex so well anymore. There are several versions of the QR. one has a splines male end than welds to the column and another with a 5 side hex shape, . I chose the 5 sided over the splined because it's easier for me to align the steering wheel when I pop it on. I like having the wheel properly orientated. My steering wheel has a marker at the 12:00 position to show when the front wheels are pointed in a straight line. The QR's come with eithers a release pin that either gets pushed or pulled depending on the brand, or a 360 degree collar that is squeezed upwards to release the wheel. I chose the 360 type cause I can remove the wheel with one hand from any position by reaching through the wheel and squeezing the collar . No fumbling around feeling for that pin. Especially when you find yourself upside down. It's harder than you think!
Most all the QR's were for a 3/4 shaft. it's a simple fix to get a 3/4 to 5/8 steel bushing for the yerf column. If you already have a 3/4 shaft your set to go.
A lot of the QR's are model specific for a particular type of car. you wanna look for a competition universal type with a 3- 1/2", 3 bolt steering wheel pattern. The yerf wheel bolts right up and so do most all of the aftermarket wheels.

I see the pros and cons of both designs, hex has more play than splines, but like you said, I want my steering wheel straight, after all the front end work we are doing.

I was thinking the Yerf was 5/8", but since I don't have immediate access to it, I wasn't 100%.

I dug through your thread, and while not mentioned, I saw some pics with it installed, and it doesn't look like it gets in the way at all, which is nice. I was hoping to get a peak at your yerf in person last weekend.

It really is a matter of personal choice. The QR I'm using is machined well enough that play if any isn't noticeable. Most all of my play comes from the universals on the shaft. The worst culprit for sloppy linkage comes from those crappy ball joint ends on the tie rods. Replacing those with heims will take out a huge percentage of slack. I got maybe a quarter inch of play at the wheel and can feel tire sidewall/tread flex/resistance when on a hard surface.
The stock yerf shaft is 5/8, the QR was 3/4. it's a simple matter to get a steel bushing to fix that. The male end of the QR that gets welded to the shaft is about a 1,1/2" long so get a bushing at least that length or better.
The QR doesn't get in the way at all and there's zero restriction. There's been a couple of times I've tried, out of old habits, to climb out, forgetting it's there :D
I'm sorry I missed you, I didn't know you were coming. I would have made a point to be there. It would have been great to meet in person.

I am also using the QR that ckau uses but used to have the pin type. I'll tell you first hand the pin type works fine but it sucks. If you flip and the weight of your legs are on the steering wheel the pin is 1) hard to find when inverted, 2) hard to pull out with pressure applied to the steering wheel. I figure if I'm inverted and a fire should occur I want out asap. I also do not use a full size steering wheel but one off the 50cc buggies. Gives more clearance between legs and wheel. I'm 6'1" and also have the single seat buggy. They are more expensive than the pin type but when needed thumbs on the center of wheel with index and pointer fingers under the flange lip, squeeze, pull toward you and the wheel is off. No searching for the pin.

Protodie.com has Qr and hardware that may work for your application

I like Jodie's stuff, but he is a bit on the high side for my junker toys.

I hear ya masteryota, I also like his products but think most of it is a little over priced for what we all are tinkering with. I think his Qr is about average priced.I did buy a rack and pinion steering unit from him and have no complaints so far. As i have not got far enough on my build yet to hook it up lol