My Hammerhead 150 GT is a Jackrabbit
 

Breakhard back again with another interesting problem/question. Just purchased a Hammerhead 150 GT (F/R transmission) that the former owner said that after sitting for two years, wouldn't start. Well duhhhh!! Bought a new battery and it started right up, but I cleaned the carb anyway, which it needed. After taking it for a drive of a mile at most I brought it home. During that drive it was very responsive to the throttle. A couple minutes later I decided to go out for another spin. Now all it does is jump like a jackrabbit when I turn the key to "ignition". Be it in forward or reverse, it won't start, just jumps forward or backwards up and down the driveway. It wants to start, but I think having no neutral, it can't. I plan to jack up the rear end to see if it'll start, which should tell me something. Previously when I started it I didn't have the chain on. So my first question is, how does only having F/R work (clutch engages as rpm's increase)?? Second, what do I need to look at now, as it seemed to work so good on the first test drive, though it did have a little jackrabbit in it then too?? Appreciate any suggestions.

idle may be too high causing the clutch to engage right off the bat.

Thanks x-bird, what should the rpm's be at idle??

Just idle it down by ear and test it quick see if that solve the problem... if not open ur cvt cover and clean and check ur variator weights also make sure ur clutch arm spring one of them ain't broken these are things that can Cause ur buggy to jump.

Miamiieddie, I'll try that. Hadn't thought about the variator weights. I'll keep you posted.

As noted...If the idle is too high that can cause it , stock idle is 1600 +- 100 rpm. It can be the variator weights are stuck ,lack of lube ..use a moly based grease. Also the weights are out of round or flatspotted ...replace them.

Its not a good idea to lube ur weights its attracts debree when off roading. That's ok for street use only like scooters just clean weights and variator real good make sure they roll up and down freely. Again check and make sure one of the arm springs aren't broken you have a total of three it only takes one to make it jump.

Just for the heck of it look at your clutch pads.

Miamieddie, I think I responded to your last message but can't find it so resending. Are you talking about the three springs in the driven pulley and clutch subassembly?? Please tell me you aren't. Isn't that where one could lose the top of his head when taking apart and it takes two grown men to put back together?? When I look at the clutch pads am I looking for even ware or completely worn pads?? Please tell me this isn't where you're wanting me to look.

Yes it takes two people a lot of experianced guys do it solo no help. Take off the small nut that holds the clutch assemb on the shaft first then grabb the whole clutch without taking it apart the part we all dread and shake it if you hear anything rattaling you have a brokin arm spring if not your probably good you may not have to take it apart. Do the variator first put it together without the casing jack the buggy off the ground rear wheels that is and test it for any jumps if no jumps then close it up. Do that before messing with the clutch you might have luck on your side from dealing with the clutch. :)

If the problem is in the clutch you'll have to take it apart check the three arm springs. And clutch pads on the pads ur looking for a broken or missing pad. :(. The good news is you can buy a whole clutch assembly for around $60. :)

Miamieddie, $60 is a lot less than my medical insurance deductible, so I may go that route if it comes down to that. Thanks everyone for all your help and suggestions. I'll start on all this first thing in the morning.

Another question I overlooked yes your correct our clutches are centrifugal when idled down it acts like neutral that's why we have no neutral if idle is high the clutch will engage and start to roll.

You do not use lube , you use molygrease . It does not attract dirt or dust since it dries when heated, forming a moly coating similar to graphite. It is recomended to use by Dazon and Honda in service manuals for these weight driven systems to avoid flat spotting the rollers.

ive never heard about that nor read about it thanks rich!!!

rich1, could I go into an auto parts store and ask for molygrease?? Is there a brand name or manufacture's name to look for?? I don't want to walk out with some generic bearing grease thinking it's molygrease.

Its really a paste...I got mine at the Honda cycle shop .Its called Honda moly- paste( cant read the part #) just ask they know.

All is well, idle was too high. Thanks everyone for all your help.

Cool.