new owner in WV
 

hi, :cheers: i found this place after searching for parts online and i've been lurking the site for a few weeks because i just recently picked up this buggy from one of my co-workers. so i figured i'd go ahead and sign up. my buddy can't tell me what year it is and he 'thinks' it's a model 7150. the manual i downloaded looks close.

here's what it looked like when i picked it up:

http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2ac36fab.jpg

http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...ps86322644.jpg

http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0f4b1af8.jpg

http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...ps682c9377.jpg

it doesn't start. i put a new dura-last gold battery in it and it cranks. i pulled the plug and it has spark. i drained the tank and put fresh gas but i didn't have time to pull the carb yet. i'm concerned about the electrical system as the engine kill switch is completely gone, and this plug with the green and yellow wire have no where to go? if i have spark, is this ok? would there be anything electrical that would keep me from getting gas, or is it all mechanical?

here's a pic. the green circled wires will go to the kill switch. i'm not sure about what the red arrows are pointing to. one is the white plug with green and yellow wire. the other is a black wire with pink stripe. any help here would be greatly appreciated.

http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...psc4f38575.jpg

all of the rubber in the front suspension looks shot. so i want to replace bushings. the tires are pretty dry as well, so those will be replaced once the engine is running properly.

http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...ps73abb285.jpg

http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4cd994a4.jpg

http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...ps09c07070.jpg

and it looks like it needs an alignment once all the rubber is replaced

http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9825bed0.jpg

is this supposed to be connected somewhere or is it a breather of some sort?

http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...psa0f36194.jpg

we haven't negotiated a price yet, because i wanted to see how much it would take to get going again. any hints on a value on this machine would help!

i figure a good move would be a full ignition system upgrade from SYC TOM, but if i have spark now, i should be able to get it to run? i am missing gas. so the next logical step would be remove carb and inspect? i do want to upgrade the air filter and CDI/coil/and plug. i'd also like to add some bright lighting for nighttime runs, but it seems like some more electrical work is needed for that. still researching.

i'd like to get a shopping list together and order everything at once so i'd like to hear what you folks have to say about it. i hope to have it running asap, so i can surprise my son with it. he still doesn't know i have it. :D thanks!

thanks for any suggestions, i'm a decent auto mechanic, but this thing is totally new to me. i look forward to learning from the site!

Make sure the fuel filter is good and there's gas getting to the carb. If she has compression spark and fuel check those areas.... I'm no electrician but for more lighting you'll need to change out ur stator with more poles and ur regulator. But wait for others who know to chime in and give you suggestions.... nice looking buggy.

Oh yea once you get it running and made ur disicion of buying it then will make a list of what to get. One step at a time. First try and get it started. :)

thanks for the help! i'll check for fuel-to-carb, and compression when i get back home from work and update.

Welcome to the forum. I have a carbide and my kill switch in the back was bypassed by joining the blue and green wires together.

wiring diagram
 

If the engine is firing as it is, he shouldn't join the 2 kill wires together. As far as the yelow and green wire, I think those may go to his auto choke. If those are the auto choke wires and they are unhooked that would explain the no getting gas problem. I am going to include a wiring diagram here maybe it wil help. It is for a Helix also which is what I have and also who made your cart, I believe. American Sportworks :party:

thanks guys, so would the auto choke module be found in the electrical box by the engine or on the carb itself? according to that diagram zman posted, that looks like the only plug with a green and yellow wire. unfortunately i'm not at home and that's where the buggy is.

thanks again for the replies gents!

http://www.amsportworks.com/pdfs/gok..._pages2230.pdf
here is wiring diagram for carbide. IT IS THE LAST PAGE.
If the blue and yellow are not connected it is not a complete circuit, right. Connected mine and it bypASSED KILL SWITCH SINCE MINE BUSTED.

http://www.amsportworks.com/pdfs/LUT...al-14589R4.pdf
ALSO SERVICE MANUAL

your auto choke should be mounted on top of your carb., with 2 wires coming out of it. it should have a plug that would plug right into the yellow and green wire.

you guys are on it. i really appreciate the replies. as soon as i get back to the buggy, i will trace these wires to figure out why this is unplugged. i guess i'm confused why i was getting a spark without the kill switch wires jumpered. i did not check for spark with them jumpered. i have no problem ordering another kill switch.

http://amsportworks.gostorego.com/14...-assembly.html unfortunately I dont think they sell just the rubber bushing.

http://amsportworks.gostorego.com/ca...esult/?q=14137 for the strut seals.

http://www.buggymasters.com/forum/sh...=carbide+parts pdf of carbide parts list.

good luck.

that's what i want right there! thanks! :banana:

ya i got sent home from work tonight, since census is low at the hospital. so plenty of time tonight LOL

i guess that's a good thing when the hospital is slow. i'm a firefighter and today has been light for us too. i probably just ginxed myself though!

Just a chime in "fader" man, but you might also want to check ur valve clearance, to make sure its not to loose or tight!

P.s. that's about a 3 to $500 buggy not running, 7 to $900 if alls good! but prices vary according to different parts of the country!

That tube in last pic is .....
here is link I found for some one yesterday to describe it.

http://www.americansportworks.com/pd...6152/15193.pdf

page 22 is that thing (part # 14762 AIR INJECTION in to MUFFLER ). I was doing some reading and I think this is what it does.

The air injection system (AIS) is designed to introduce clean air to the engine exhaust as it exits the exhaust manifold or exhaust headers. Exhaust gases are at their hottest as they leave the combustion chambers. Introducing oxygen to the exhaust at this point allows continued burning of the fuel mixture as it travels down the exhaust system and ultimately out the tailpipe.

Got some info on it here.
http://www.smogtips.com/air.cfm

I think it is suppose to help burn the fuel more for cleaner emissions.
So I am guessing I goes from your air box (maybe in to exhaust pipe)

I am also thinking you can probably get rid of it some how and it will probably help performance maybe.
__________________

I got mine in great shape for $700 minus battery, broken fenders, and passenger seat needed reeled end at 4 points.
Yours looks like it was left outside and maintenance was not kept up on it.
Not running I would offer 200-300
running I would offer 500 just because you will still be putting money in to it even though parts are cheap.
Once it is ready to ride you will love it. Great trail riding machine.
The rear tires are cool too, if you swap left and right it turns tread around for a more muddy, loose sand, and snow ridding.

thanks slicknick and bear. i figured i should check valve clearances before i run it. i was reading a little about that last night.

i can see offering 300$ once i make sure the engine will run. obviously it needs some parts and general maint to bring it back up to working order which will only cost money. the ODO reads 77, so i'm assuming it has sat a lot more than it has been ran. i'll pull the carb and inspect/clean, and check out this wiring when i get back to it on thursday. again, i really appreciate all the help guys. :cheers:

EDIT: nick i think that first link to a PDF is broken :(

:banana: IT'S ALIIIIVE!!!

i removed the carb and disassembled and gave it a meticulous cleaning and put it back in. turned the key and started up after a few cranks! i let it run about three minutes and it sounded good. it changed rpm a couple times but otherwise smooth. i'm going to adjust the chain slack and see if i can correct the alignment a little bit and make a few runs in front of the house just to see what happens. i'm stoked!

well, i adjusted the chain and alignment and put everything else back together. started it up and drove it around the block. it went a block and died about 50 feet from my yard. cranks but wont start now. i'm gonna let it cool down and look at it again. full throttle got me to about 16 mph. i applied throttle slowly and after warm. engine sounded normal to me the few times i've run it today. mind you, i haven't put in a new spark plug yet, the air filter looks brand new.

You guys mentioned something about immission control system. I know nothing about that but I can almost bet it has something to do with that. My buggy don't have that. Maybe you can get rid of that epa bs. :)

Edit. Air injection system.

i just got back from the store with a replacement NGK plug and put it in. it ran for about 45 seconds and quit. the battery is getting weak at this point as well.

i'm not sure what to look for for the AIS. i haven't seen that tube circled in my pic above in any pics in the manual.

Does the engine start after you let it sit? If you have a multimeter, check the coil right after it shuts off. It may be failing intermittently internally once it gets a little heat in it.

sorry electrical is not my strong suit, but i do have a multimeter, what do i want to see on the coil after it shuts off?

i just took the carb off for a second cleaning just in case i knocked some debris loose, and it will start and run for a few seconds and shut back down. then it might do it again or it might just crank and no start.

you need to check right after it cuts off to see if you are still getting a spark at the spark plug. if you are getting a spark then you will know it is most likely a gas problem, if no spark then it is electrically related.

ok thanks zman. i'll have to charge this battery before i can try it again. it's too weak to turn it over fast enough to even try to start.

I should have been more specific, sorry. Checking for spark at the plug or with a grounded screwdriver stuck into the end of the wire. Checking the coil's resistance on both circuits will definitely condemn the coil. There are 2 circuits in the coil, so you have to check both, the primary circuit is the most prone to failure under heat and load.

If you don't have spark, and rule out the coil, you may have a CDI issue, or connection problem.

Like zman pointed out, fuel may or may not be an issues as well, be sure you have adequate fuel coming out of the tank, and filling up the bowl of the carb.

thanks man, the battery has been on a tender all night so i'll mess with it some today. appreciate the help.

it started right up this morning. it idles but it dies as soon as throttle is applied. after idling till warm i was able to give it throttle and it revved and sputtered like perhaps too much fuel. some black exhaust. as soon as i let off the throttle, it died. it starts back up.

is your air fuel screw uncapped, meaning you can adjust it? If so try that.

it's capped, can the cap be removed?

Yes.
Easy to do when carb is out.
Take a small drill bit and drill a little pilot hole in metal plug (silver, not brass cap). Then get a screw used for metal or wood start screwing it in. Once it is snug you can pull on the screw and the plug will pop right out.
If engine is boggy on the 0-50% throttle might just need air fuel screw adjustment.

sweet, i will try it now. thanks.

no problem.

ok, that's done. pretty simple, i just used some needle nose and carefully worked the plug out. no sweat. it was only an eighth of a turn from wide open so i went all the way closed and then back 1.5 turns. it idled well. put it in drive and made it halfway around the house before bogging down and dead. started after about a minute and drove it the rest of the way around the house and it died again. it feels like a fuel/air problem at this point. i still need to check valve clearances, and i might as well replace the coil and plug wire.

wow do i feel dumb. turns out the wires that go to the engine kill switch in the electrical box in the rear were shorting out and affecting my spark. i've got the carb A/F screw at 3/4 turn out, and the idle screw set to 'sound' good. idles like a champ and has smooth accel through the powerband. made two perfect laps around the block. it didn't die. and it started up immediately after i shut it down. top speed floored was 26mph indicated. i'm 215lbs, should i tweak some more to gain some top end or is that about what i should expect with my fata$$ driving?

The carbide should go at least 40 - 45.
You might have cdi rev limiter on it. Go to asw web site and look at their speed reduction options, you may be running one.

^yea these two look identical to me.
http://amsportworks.gostorego.com/ca...ev+limited+cdi

but i hit 26 and that stock one limits to 20mph. not sure. i should pull the plug and see what color i have. maybe the carb needs a little further tweaking?

Never a bad idea.

Check the part number on cvi. J will check mine at some point too.

Check ur plug or post a pic. 26 mph is slow even for a 150cc. The plug may tell us a lot.

In addition to working out/checking the electrical/fuel, pop the cvt cover and check to see what clutch springs and roller weights you're running along with drive and driven sprocket teeth count. A lot of owners intentionally sacrifice a lot of top end with drivetrain mods to make sure they have a buggy capable of pulling steep sections on the trails.

As stated in earlier post that buggy may have the childs cdi in it which limits it to around 25mph, but it should do 40. Also checking the valve lash and compression is a must to tell the vital signs of the motor. Adjust valves first then do compression check making certain throttle is fully open when doing compression check.

Oh by the way welcome to the addiction.