REAR AXLE CONVERSION
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Axle- Asuza flex proof,42” long,1” dia. 1,3/8”x2” step down from gokartgalaxy. #1411-42
http://gokartgalaxy.com/deluxe_flexp...teel_axles.htm
Sprocket and disc rotor hubs. 2 of these
http://www.*************/item/4-Bolt-...ub-AZ2286-5767
. A minimum of two of these
1” Bearings # H92010W and 3 hole flangetts for 1” bore # 400165
From
http://www.*************/shop/?shop=1&cat=260
These will make up the wheel hubs. 2 of these
Set screw shaft couplers #6412K45, 1”bore,3” long, 2”OD come from
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-sh...plings/=g2woku
You will need 8 of these
http://www.*************/item/2-Piece...20-600130-3236
And 2 of these.
http://www.*************/item/Wheel-H...box-05728-4852
Setting the axle and bearings/ flangettes is pretty straight for-wards.
Note: you may want to make up the hubs before installing axle. It may be easier to do the alignment and welding if the axle is up at eye level.
The 2 piece locking collars are used on both sides of the bearings and the sprocket and disc hubs. The collars serve two purposes, One- to keep the axle and hubs centered and positioned.(no side to side play) Two- to keep the 1/4x1/4 key stock positioned. It’s best to get lengths of key stock then cut them for the full length of the hub key-ways. Shorter lengths will move side to side and cause premature wear . The hubs will get floppy over time.
Hang the bearing, slide the hubs over the axle , hang the axle checking foe equal side to side distance, position the hubs for chain and caliper alignment and lock down the collars. Use red lock tight on all set screws. Make double sure everything is correctly positioned. Once that lock tight sets, you will have to heat the set screws to break them loose. Don’t forget to put in all the key stocks!!! Ask me how I know this!
Making the wheel hubs is the most involved part of this deal. (see pic. ) . Cut the stock hubs so you have 3” of flat area to weld against the shaft couplers. I used a cutting disc on a drill press. Adjusted the table to the correct hight, placed the hub flat on the table then spun it against the cutter to get a square cut. This gave me a reasonable square /straight surface to position the coupler against.. Drill out the center hole of the hub to ¾. (this simply removes all the splines). This also gives the shoulder needed to hold the hub tight on the step down axle. Slide the coupler and hub over the axle to get everything aligned then spot weld. Remove the assembly to finish welding. You don’t want to get that axle hot!
That’s about it! Clean up the welds, do a little paint, put the whole deal together and your set to go.
Shurlock nuts have held my hubs on fine for years.
Go one step further and get some 1” inner dia. Thick wall PVC pipe. Cut lengths to fit on all the bare areas of the axle to serve a spacers between all the locking collars. This will further help to keep the whole assembly positioned and also protects the axle from nicks and dirt. Even if you should sling a set screw, which does happen, the pipe keeps everything in place. I have had to take a file to a axle to smooth off nicks when trying to get a bearing to slide off. Get the PVC lengths correct ,you can assemble everything loose . Tightening the hub Shurlock's will take up any slack. Then tighten all set screws.
When tightening the flangettes on the hangers the flangetts can shift and tighten out of alignment .(the tolerances are not that close. After hanging the axle , spin it while tightening the flangettes to check for binding. You may have to tighten and loosen the bolts several times to get it spinning freely.
you can go further to totally bullet proof the system by boxing in the original hangers, adding another set of hangers and bearing out at the wheel hubs and also adding a center hanger. The outboard hangers support the ends of the axle . The center support aids axle flex and chain skip.