Going to get my hands on a super duty flywheel puller. Then try heating the flywheel with Map gas this time instead of propane. And apply ice (maybe dry ice) or see if I can get my hands on a spray can of something really cold and see if that will do it.
If that doesn't work, cutting it off will be my only other option.
I think part of the problem is the flywheel is a 2 piece design. It has a 3/16" thick piece (threaded/reinforcement for pulling the flywheel) riveted onto the ring gear. I think that may be part of the problem. The heat isn't penetrating to the ring gear which has the long tapered portion that is Loctited to the crank. Pretty sure most of the heat it building up on the 3/16" reinforcement which doesn't really contact the crank or the Loctite.
Unfortunately on these engines, the Loctite is required. The woodruff key is just for locating the flywheel for timing purposes, not actual strength. These engines have a high impact rate on the crankshaft. Every time the boat leaves the water, the engine sees a "no load" condition and races. Then it re-enters the water and has a HUGE force placed on the engine. Remember you have all the rotational mass of the flywheel and the crankshaft counterweights turning almost 8000 RPM (no load) and then seeing a huge load when it re-enters the water. It does this over and over and over again. So if it wasn't for that red Loctite on the taper, there's a good chance the flywheel may spin on the crank and throw engine timing off.
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