[BuggyMaster]

Many people have wanted to know what's involved in doing this so I'll show you how. First things first, this is not a drop on and go mod. It does require some grinding. I use a 4" grinder. If the engine on your mini bike has a rear facing dip stick tube, you also have to trim it too. I am using a Comet TAV2 torque converter.

The first thing you have to take care of is one of the jack shaft webs on the back of the torque converter will need to be ground down to be able to clear the rear dipstick tube boss. How much you have to grind depends on whether or not you have an acutal tube in place or if there is just the tube boss. My mock up engine had the tube but the engine on my actual mini bike did not. Of course I didn't realize that until I was done with my mock up and went to install the converter so I ground a little more than I needed to but if you have the actual tube in place, you need to grind it down as much as shown in the second picture. So, look at the first picture for what it looks like before grinding, and then look at the second picture for what it looks like after the grinding is done.

If you don't have the actual tube, you only need to grind from the end of the web up to about the halfway point to the jack shaft. I ground almost all the way. Remember that these webs reinforce the jackshaft so leave as much meat on it as you can and still be able to clear.

The next piece of grinding will be the lower rear cover bolt boss. When this thing is in place, it fits right up against the frame. This boss is about 1/4 inches thick and will not allow you to mount the TAV flush so it has to go. Grind it off and even with the back of the TAV. The third picture shows what it looks like with that boss ground off.

To make sure the grinding is correct, we now need to pull off the old clutch and gear reduction system. Remove the side cover. Remove the front chain masterlink and remove that chain. Remove the bolt that holds the clutch on and remove the clutch.

For the existing gear reduction system, there are four bolts that hold it to the case and one bolt that holds the rear section of it in place. Remove those bolts and the entire reduction system will come off.

You will need to remove the heat shield around the head to be able to use the torque converter. There are three bolts that hold it on, one of them being a bolt that also holds on the lower left pull start cover. When that is off, place your TAV backing plate in place and loosely bolt it on. (you will need bolts that are longer than the ones that came out that were holding the original gear reduction plate in. I used 8mm x 25mm in length) There are two areas on the rear edge of the mini bike frame that need to have mild grinding done because of interference with the frame. One area interferes with the chain cover mount, and the other with the frame itself. Use a sharpie or something similar to mark those interfering places. Remove the TAV backing plate and gring those areas down to where they will no longer interfere when the plate is mounted. The fourth picture below shows how my backing plate looked after I did this and yours should be similar.

That should be it for the grinding. Now you will need to remount the TAV and re-check your clearances. If all looks good, go ahead and tighten it down. If all is correct, the tav will be butted up tight to the frame where it drops below the frame and the webbing grind should look similar to picture number 5 below.

Believe it or not, the stock chain will work find. Go ahead and put it on and adjust as necessarry. I will tell you that you should leave it on the loose side. I don't think my rear sproket is accurately round and my chain goes tight/loose over a full revolution. Check your tension over a full revolution of the back wheel and adjust accordingly.

At this point you are free to put the TAV together completely. I pulled the rear chain guard off prior to putting the TAV cover on so I could trim it. You will need to trim the TAV cover to allow clearance where the chain enters and exists from the rear. Once you have the cover on (remember it will only be held on with 3 of the four bolts since we had to grind one bolt boss off) you will then likely need to trim the forward edge of your chain guard slightly so it can clear the TAV cover.

Otherwise, that's it folks!