[x-bird]

Reason i asked about the location is that looks a lot like a Florida member's crossfire--but a lot of people do the rack mod.

As was mentioned in another thread, 0 to 1/8th toe is good. you want a little bit of toe in to prevent toe-out from occurring as things wear and deflect. I'd disconnect the steering rods, get your a-arms set correctly with the heims, then center the steering wheel and re-attach the rods with the tires dead ahead or toed in a touch.

Your rack looks like it has enough teeth to allow the steering rod at the arm pivot to get pulled into a nearly straight line with the upper a-arm ball joint. when that happens it can deflect rearwards--really bad situation --- imagine hyper-extending your knee ... aside from putting a new rack in (then you'll be complaining about not enough turning radius) you could weld a stop tab in somewhere or open up the rack and put a filler weld in the last tooth on each side.

to check your camber, jack up the front, pull the shocks and run the suspension through it's full range up and down. watch how the camber changes as you cycle it. camber really comes down to riding style and terrain. i like none to a little cambered in up top. (i always forget which is pos or neg ...)

I'd open the rack up anyway just to make sure 'ol X is correct and it isn't some other issue with the geometry. You shouldn't need to replace it unless the added teeth (if any) are in really bad shape.


--also ...ditto CKAU ... you need front meats big time. kendas are excellent, i'm running kenda dominators