Remember, you don't want the intake polished smooth. You want a textured finish to keep the fuel molecules suspended in the air. Not clinging to the sides.
Not sure why your starter is working so hard now? Makes sure your engine to frame ground is good and solid. This is VERY important
I,like INT at .003 and EXH at .005 valve clearance. Make sure your rocker arms are both relaxed when checking clearance. (on the lowest part of the camshaft)
Make sure your throttle cable isn't hanging up and causing your high idle. Might want to try spraying starting fluid around any mating surfaces looking for an air leak just to be sure.
You will most likely need to adjust your carb. If it's breathing that much better than before, you will need more fuel to compensate for the extra air getting in now.
Lastly, what I've noticed is with the cam. Did you align the 2 holes drilled in the cam sprocket with the cylinder head? Did you then release the cam chain tensioner and notice anything?
My chain use to be loose. I would align the cam holes with eylinder head like the instructions said. But when i would put tension on the cam chain by releasing the tensioner, it would rotate the camshaft causing it to come out of alignment.
What I then did was move the cam 1 tooth in the chain. So when the tensioner was applying tension on the chain, it rotated the cam to the correct alignment.
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My Yerban assault vehicle: 2.2mm stroker crank, 62mm Nikasil cyl, Taida large vavle head, American made valve springs, ported intake manifold, TM 28mm carb, stock CDI, Bando coil, TK exhaust, stock CVT except for the 14g sliders, 13/40 internal gears, 16T drive, 31T axle sprocket, 22" rear tires, and ONE BIG POTATO CANNON mounted on top..........
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