[xlint89]

Again, I have never used an aftermarket clutch. I do find the stock clutch to work just fine for me. The key to them is keeping any glazing down.

As the bell "slips" the bell will "blue" from heat and cause a polished slick surface on the bell and clutch linings.

That slick surface needs to be roughed up for proper perfromance.

It's quite acceptable to scuff the bell contact area with sand paper to remove any glazing. Also the same thing can be done with the clutch lining.

Changing the clutch shoe springs (little ones) will change the RPM that the clutch engages. The higher RPM the clutch engages, the more take off you will have. But it will be more of a "hard" take off, not really a smooth and easy take off.

Once again, stock works for me and compromise is key to what works best for YOU. Everyone will offer their opinion, but that's based on their buggy, weight, and terain that works best for them.

You being a bigger guy with a heavy buggy (going by what others have said, I have no idea what yours weighs) you might like the hard accel. But if you have kids or your wife, it may launch them too fast if they want to just tool around the yard.

The contra spring, or the big one, will affect the shift rate of the driven pulley. A heavier or higher RPM spring weight will slow down the shifting speed of the driven pulley resulting in holding "low gear" longer. More torque applied to the rear wheels because the belt hasn't started moving the gearing yet. It will also start down-shifting the buggie faster because of the tension is stronger to force the sheaves back together. This results in having good low end power coming out of a turn.

You may like a stronger spring (most prefer the yellow that I believe is 1500 RPM more than stock) for your application if you have hills. The buggy will hold more torque longer for your hill climbing.


It's really easy to get caught up in buying all kinds of parts for these buggies, but you really don't need too as long as you set up your CVT properly.

For me the stock variator, clutch, contra spring, and clutch springs work well. But I don't have any hills and I do mostly flat concrete riding. I do have an aftermarket driven pulley though. Which I found to have a little better accel even though they advertised more top speed. (no speed gain, but bottom end improved, so that is a plus in my book too)


The key for CVT's is heat. Keeping them as cool as possible is the cat's meow. Heat is what destroys belts. Clutch slipping creates heat and destroys clutches and bells.

I've found modifying the CVT's air intake for maximum air flow works well.

Mine came with a small bottle neck snorkle that let in small amounts of air. If it got plugged up with dirt or grass that just amplified the problem. I removed the snorkle and installed a scotch brite pad as a filter over the intake. That opened up the intake about 100% right there.

I then cleaned up all the casting slag in the outlet openings to allow the most air OUT as possible.

Those are 2 FREE modifications you can do the make your CVT more reliable and last longer.