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Old 12-05-2018, 09:56 PM
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xlint89 xlint89 is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: cleveland OH
Posts: 1,064
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Welcome to the site Heavyjeff.

Might I suggest you try adjusting your valve clearances first. There's a chance the valves may only need to be adjusted in order to regain some lost power, it's FREE and pretty easy to do if you're handy and have a set of feeler gauges.

You can go on youtube and it will guide you on how to adjust the clearance. Just look up GY6 150 valve adjust.

Secondly, since the buggy is new to you, it wouldn't hurt to go over the Constant velocity Transmission (CVT for short). This is also an easy thing to do if handy and usually very low in cost. It's also a common cause for drive ability issues.

1. Check your drive belt edges for glazing and/or slipping (replace with proper size if found to be the case)

2. Check your rollers for flat spots inside the variator (front pulley with the fan). You will usually need an impact gun to remove the nut. DO NOT use a screwdriver or pry bar against the fan blades to try and hold it in place as you attempt to remove the nut. You WILL break the fan blades.

Not a bad idea to disassemble the variator, clean up the internals, and lubricate the inside with a dry lube. DO NOT get any lube on the pulley faces as that will make the belt slip.

3. If you can, remove the rear pulley's clutch. You will need an impact gun and a large socket to do that. Be very careful when disassembling the rear set up though. The rear set up is under spring tension and you need to pay attention. (again, youtube the procedure)

Also make sure to use the proper socket to remove the large thin nut, and be sure it's squarely on the nut. It's really easy to strip the nut and cross thread it as well. So pay attention. (I warned you)

If you are able to get the clutch apart. Look at the friction material of the clutch arms (they look like mini drum brake shoes from a car) Often times they are glazed up and can be brought back to service by just roughing them up with course sand paper.

Then look at the clutch "bell" is what it's called, but is really like a mini car brake drum. Often it's glazed (shiny and slippery) or in worst cases actually "blued" from the heat.

Once again, can usually be brought back to service with just a rough sand paper.

4. Make sure all the air passages on the CVT cover are unobstructed and the air inlet and exits are clean. Lack of air causes heat, and heat is what usually damges the CVT components.

5. While you're in there, now would be a good time to drain and replace the gear lube as the previous owner most likely neglected this part of the buggy. You'll most likely need an oil can to fill the fluid, but it's not very hard to do. (again check out youtube)

None of the stuff I just recommended costs anything, except a quart of gear lube, and maybe an oil can and large metric socket to remove the clutch bell. Really not bad at all.

Don't be too concerned with the CVT cover gasket as it's not really preventing any fluids from leaking

I would suggest you try this stuff before you go buying anything for the buggy first. You may have a low compression reading, but find out one of the valves is not closing all the way and giving a false reading. So adjust them first before you do a compression test.

Good luck with the buggy. they are a ton of fun.
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My Yerban assault vehicle: 2.2mm stroker crank, 62mm Nikasil cyl, Taida large vavle head, American made valve springs, ported intake manifold, TM 28mm carb, stock CDI, Bando coil, TK exhaust, stock CVT except for the 14g sliders, 13/40 internal gears, 16T drive, 31T axle sprocket, 22" rear tires, and ONE BIG POTATO CANNON mounted on top..........
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