Quote:
Originally Posted by SYCARMS
13 into 40 = 3:08,16 into 31 = 1:94. Add the 2 together for a 5:02 total ratio. Now if running different tires for every 1" larger deduct 1 tooth off large sprocket, 1" smaller add 1 tooth. This is how I have been told to figure total ratio.
;94:94
|
Oh yeah, sorry about that. 22" rears on mine
Quote:
Originally Posted by x-bird
Not sure if it's add or multiply to get to the final ratio. Always thought it was multiply
either way, he was running 21s or 22s on the back instead of the stock 20s (which was the point of his "test") and if you look close, they're aired up pretty hard, likely putting them an inch oversize. This in turn puts his final sprocket gearing at 16-29 or 16-28. That change along with the uni air filter, and custom exhaust and carb rejet could put it into the upper 30s.
|
Yeah, after reading that, he isn't totally stock. So that makes me feel a little better about a "stock" Yerf doing 40.
Just an FYI my CVT is completely stock (except for the 14g sliders) as well as Metalstudman's.
Which brings me to this Q:
What is everyone else running for a variator and clutch set up in theirs?
I have no issues with the stock parts in mine, just wondering if there is a noticeable difference in the aftermarket parts?
I did read the Dr. Pulley is supposed to be the best variator (and HIT clutch too), but when I tried the variator on mine, it didn't do a dam bit of good. I think I may have actually lost a bit of speed. That's why I sold it and went back to stock.
__________________
My Yerban assault vehicle: 2.2mm stroker crank, 62mm Nikasil cyl, Taida large vavle head, American made valve springs, ported intake manifold, TM 28mm carb, stock CDI, Bando coil, TK exhaust, stock CVT except for the 14g sliders, 13/40 internal gears, 16T drive, 31T axle sprocket, 22" rear tires, and ONE BIG POTATO CANNON mounted on top..........
|