[plee911]

Ok i will follow that.

I agree that the driving hard in and of itself was not the only cause.

I have picked out multiple reasons that the gasket failed

1. I have already identified that the lower jug gasket that came with the kit was very thin. ( By itself would probably still have been ok)

2 I used a coating on the gasket when none is needed

3 the only coating i have ever seen recommended was the spray type copper coat with a 3 hour dry time before assembling and i did not use it

4 I used the brush on copper coat on that gasket. Even when allowed to dry for a bit is still slippery I didn't even give the stuff 30 minutes to dry and did not watch for push out on the gasket as i should have)

5 the torque specs i used were wrong (I did mine to 14 ft lbs and 16 ft lbs is recommended)

Driving it like i stole it just sped up the when the failure happened but was not the primary cause of the failure.

The new gasket i will be installing is at least 4 times as thick as the failed one.
All surfaces have been cleaned completely and the gaskets will be installed with out any coating. The surfaces have been checked with a straight edge to ensure no warping has occurred. Proper torque specs will be used with the 10 ft lbs then 16 ft lbs step up done in cross pattern.

After the first hour i will stop and let the engine cool completely and re check to ensure that bolts are still torqued correctly before running again and inspect all gaskets for push out/ failure

I will also change the brake in oil at that time.

I will then give it another hour following the same break in process and re check and change oil again just to be sure

That's when i will be putting a good synthetic for air cooled engines in it and it should be good t go.

If everything goes as planned and there isn't any reason it should not now that i will not be sabotaging the job before i start then i can move on to other things.