Sorry bad link, The bearings I bought are exactly like the ones in the link, but they are 5/8" ID, The flange is heavy duty unlike the crap bearings that come with the hubs.
The spacer should be between the bearings, inside the hubs... it will be a little over 2"... If you can find some 5/8" ID tubing you can use it just cut it to size. Basically when you tighten down the bolt that holds the hub on, that spacer will distribute the pressure from the outside bearing to the inside bearing, and from there onto the spacer that is next to the spindle wall.
Just look at it like this, between the bearings is air... with the bolt tightened down it puts pressure on the outside bearing, the spacer that is next to the spindle is putting pressure on the inside bearing. When you are driving and turning, that is extra pressure applied. After a while the inner race starts to develop play and eventually will give out. Now if there is a spacer between the Races it is lest likely for them to buckle inward, and it also takes pressure off of the Flange that holds the bearings in place, So now you can even run bearings that don't have the flange on them because the spacer is keeping the bearings where they should be. If you really want to get fancy you can run two bearings on both sides, one with a flange for the outside and one without for the inside.
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T.J.
Yerfdog Spiderbox, Uni Type air filter with 6" intake, 130 jet, Orange no-rev limit cdi, Red coil, iridium plug, 1500rpm clutch springs, 1500rpm contra spring, 13g sliders, 22" rears, 21" fronts, aftermarket reverse installed, and Trailtech Vapor.
Last edited by T3beatz; 06-30-2012 at 10:17 PM.
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