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Old 06-08-2014, 10:25 PM
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xlint89 xlint89 is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: cleveland OH
Posts: 1,064
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Cleaned up the head (casting slag) and polished the exhaust port.

Installed the American made valve springs. Quite a bit stiffer than any of the other ones I've ever encountered. I actually had to use a spring compressor to install these, as opposed to just using my thumbs.

Installed the new trans bearings into the case.

Installed the new engine and trans seals into the case.

Started to assemble the bottom when I realized 2 rookie mistakes:

1. I failed to sort and mark the bolts for their location. Normally not a problem, but when your rebuild drags into weeks, you tend to forget what went where. (never realized all the different length bolts these use, I thought the majority were pretty much same length)

2. I failed to chase all the bolt holes. There was a lot of crap inside the bolt holes that prevented them from running all the way in.



I clay checked the piston to valve clearance because I thought the larger valves may be an issue. Clay says there is no problem using the large valve head with the 62mm NCY piston.

Checked ring gap. I read .004 for every inch of bore size, and add another .002 for the second ring. 62mm is just under 2 1/2"

There was no need to modify. Top ring was a tight .010 from NCY and 2nd ring was .013

Adjusted the rocker arm to valve clearances to .003 Intake and .005 on Exhaust

Why I don't know? But with the cylinder spacer installed for the stroker crank, I have to use a longer (more links) timing chain. I was hoping with the taller Taida head that would work perfect. But no.

I had to add another 2 links (4 total from stock now) to my timing chain to accomodate. This sucks because I had to add a bolt to the bottom of my timing chain tensioner in order to make up for the excess slack in my chain.

At last she is all back together with new upgrades done. Just need to add some gear lube to the trans, and install the CVT cover.

Then I get the fun task of trying to shoe-horn the engine back into the frame.

I'm sure I'll need to modify the exhaust slightly to make up for the taller head.

And I will most likely be installing larger gauge wires for the starter and ground. The added bore size with longer stroke will put a hurting on the stock starter, so she'll need all the muscle she can get from the battery.
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My Yerban assault vehicle: 2.2mm stroker crank, 62mm Nikasil cyl, Taida large vavle head, American made valve springs, ported intake manifold, TM 28mm carb, stock CDI, Bando coil, TK exhaust, stock CVT except for the 14g sliders, 13/40 internal gears, 16T drive, 31T axle sprocket, 22" rear tires, and ONE BIG POTATO CANNON mounted on top..........

Last edited by xlint89; 06-08-2014 at 10:30 PM.
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