And now here's the issues I have with the reverse set up bought as pieces off Ebay
1. The shift cable was WAY too long. Think it's 65" and I only needed it about 48" (had to cut it and add a ferule to the end after I made that custom piece to fit the ball that came on it stock) Thanks for the pics you guys posted on the other thread, I knew exactly what I had to make in order for it to fit.
2. The output shaft doesn't have enough spline length for my liking. As you can see all the washers added to shaft reduced the amount of spline contact area. I'm lucky if i have 1/2" of splines inside the gearbox. I used the 197mm shaft.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Outer-Shaft-...4f6c91&vxp=mtr
3. I had to use a flat head bolt and countersink it into the engine mount in order to keep as much spline area available as possible. You can clearly see how close I am to the mount with the chain.
4. I do not like having to space the sprocket on the axle. The self centering hole is not used and I'm completely relying on the grade 8 bolts.
5. I've got the sprockets aligned spot on, but yet I get some chain bind at 1 point during each revolution. (yes, I have 1/2" of slop in the chain at it's loosest point)
6. It seems tougher to push the buggy by hand. Probably part of the chain binding issue, and part of the metal flakes.
7. The buggy still lurches forward when in reverse, but then it slams into reverse
8. It appears the metal flakes are from the 2 halves of the gearbox contacting when in reverse. (the cable pulls the 2 halves tight)
9. The output shaft retaining nut (back side of the gearbox) doesn't have a good way to keep it locked on. I drilled the nut and shaft, then slid some SS wires through them like a cotteer pin to keep it from backing out. Once again, all the shims on the front of the gearbox eliminated alot of thread for the nut to grab.
If anyone has any tips or suggestions on how to remedy any of these issues, please speak up.