[Rarerat]

Originally Posted by ckau

I don't know if the 3/8 heims will be strong enough. I used a 1/2-20 x1/2 with a 1&1/2 " long shaft. I did not want the shafts to flex or break. Order bungs too. I made my own but if i were to do it again, for the price and time savings, I would buy bungs.
Getting the heims positioned correctly is crucial to a good handling buggy. To get full advantage of the heims , there is some geometry involved.
First install the shocks and wheel/tires that you plan to use, front and back. Measure the distance off the floor the buggy sets. front and back. Raise the buggy so the wheels are clear and hang free. level the buggy so it sits at the same angle off the floor as it would normally sit. Level the front of the buggy with a 4' level side to side. The lower frame rail will be a Level straight line to take future measurements from. The a-arms hang down at some degree off this line. In my case it was a 15 degrees down angle. After the a-arms have been stripped of all the old mounting tabs they will get bored for the bungs. the idea is to position the bungs so the heims are approx 1 degree tilted down from level. I used a drill press with a tilting table to bore the 3/4 bung holes.I tilted the table at 14 degrees.
The bottom a-arm gets bored directly center. the bottom heim should point directly parallel with the frame rail. the upper a-arm bore gets moved back towards the frame. After the lower bungs and heims are in place, install your spindle on the lower a-arm. Tilt the spindle back 3 degrees at the top from center of upper a-arm. This gives the position of the upper bung. tilting the spindle back will give "Castor. This helps the buggy track straight. Like the wheels on a shopping cart, as it moves forwards the wheels automatically straighten. The axles will not turn on a radius parallel to the frame but rather in a downwards arch as they are turned in. In example: Turning the wheels right, causes the right front wheel to angle down/in slightly while the left wheel will angle up/out and vise versa. as though the tires are leaning into a turn. Getting the castor correct will make the buggy steer easier, makes a sharper turn reduces front "push and better traction.
tack weld everything in place and try it. check that both spindle have the same castor. the axles are parallel with the frame rail with the rack & pinion centered and there is no binding during suspension travel. Get the math right, it will work unless you have a bent or mis aligned a-arm.
only thing left is set alignment and camber. I set alignment with a laser light. this gives me a straight line off the rear wheel. you can draw lines on the floor or use some other form of straight edge to get same results. the laser light just makes it real simple and accurate. With the R&P centered, I measure off the beam to get one front wheel parallel with the rear wheel with a 1/16 th toe outadjusting with steering arm length. I then move to the other side adjust the wheel to give a 1/16 toe out. for a total of 1/8th toe, measuring front and back of the wheels
Setting camber is a personal preference . for trail riding, 3 degrees in on the top is a good set up for me.
hope this helps and is not confusing. PM me if you got question. Good luck and have fun.

Great info, thank you.