stator bad?

[supertoast92]

Well now that I've settled on a decent light kit (single 55 watt halogen H3 light on a switch, kit from Wal-mart) and upgraded to a BS-12 battery, I'm still having troubles with the battery dying. It seems to only last about a couple weeks, and the alarming thing is this is without running with the headlight much (maybe 5% of the total run-time during these couple weeks). Turned out the battery read 11.5V I let it charge overnight, put it back in the kart and checked the voltage again before starting. Read 13V.

Now, question is, when I run the kart, should those voltages rise on the terminals given the stator is charging the battery? I had my brother step on the gas a bit in neutral, and the voltages never moved.

If it's a bad stator, would I be able to order a stator designed for the Carbide, as it is a 6 pole rather than a 4 pole in the Helix from what I heard in earlier threads? Both engines are nearly identical, pretty much the same GY6 setup besides the air intake, if I'm not mistaken.

[Beefcake]

I know that in cars the voltage is supposed to be higher coming from the alternator so maybe its the same thing for stators

[olderthan]

you should be able to use any stator for your brand of gy6
example howhit
don't forget check your rectifier 1st

[supertoast92]

Originally Posted by olderthan

you should be able to use any stator for your brand of gy6
example howhit
don't forget check your rectifier 1st

Ok, where's the rectifier? Should I just test for voltage? And again if I'm not mistaken, is the stator behind the cooling fan?

[SYCARMS]

If the battery is at full charge and the rectifier is working properly than you will not see much of a voltage change however if the batt is down you should read 13.8 to 14 volts. As Olderthan stated check the rectifier first. Another common thing on our buggies is if they sit awhile the battery will discharge, I have found on many buggies that there is a slight draw on the battery this could be due to a faulty diod in the stater if there even is one since I have found draws even on new buggies. The diod prevents the backflow of current when engine is in the off position. I am installing battery disconnects on my buggies so as not to have to keep a charger on when not in use. All automotive systems have this diod in their charging systems to keep from drainning the battery when not in use. I suspect the chinese do not install these diods since this is a commom problem which has plauged our buggies for as long as I have been in the business. TOM

[BuggyMaster]

You need to put a volt meter on the battery while the machine is running and tell us what voltage it is reporting.

[supertoast92]

Ok, I did do this before posting but that was right after I freshly charged the battery overnight. Could mean the reason it wasn't drawing any more voltage. Will check again.

And just wanted to let you all know that we replaced the exhaust and muffler with a new one from the factory. Runs so quiet now I can hear the tranny whine (I hope that's a good thing, kart seems to still be working like normal!). Turns out the muffler was indeed falling apart - there was a metal plate just lying inside the muffler, rattling up a storm whenever I'd shake the muffler. No wonder my kart was making so much noise.

[BuggyMaster]

That is one of the things that crapped out on ours too was the muffler.

[supertoast92]

Ok, after spending a week on vacation at the Outer Banks, NC, I was able to get a good reading of the battery when I got back. Both before and after starting the engine, the voltage read steady at 12.5 V. Ran the kart for a good hour, and the voltage seemed to drop a tenth or so (hard to tell what exactly with the analogue needle), the needle did drop a bit though.

Also, when I gas it the headlight gets no brighter. Another sign to me that there is probably no charge happening.

So would the stator be the only thing I have to replace or inspect? Can I order the stator for the Carbide rather than the Helix from ASW? (I'd rather stick to stock parts.)

[olderthan]

check your rectifier first usually sticks out the front of your wiring box

[SYCARMS]

Ditto. TOM

[supertoast92]

Ah okay, what should I look for? (And what does it look like, I'm not quite the mechanic ha ha)

[SYCARMS]

You should have an electrical box in the back over the engine. This will contain the start soleniod as well as your cdi and also the voltage regulator. On the right side of the engine you will find wires comming out of the engine itself, follow these wires which will go to the regulator. Check first to see if all wires in the plug are making good contact or if one or more have worked themselves loose from the plug, also unplug from the regulator and check for corrosion of the small brass terminals on the plug that plugs into the regulator. Many times this is the problem which causes a no charging problem. TOM

[supertoast92]

Thanks again for the replies!

Checked the regulator as the service manual suggested, and went through step-by-step checking resistance. There are a couple of short circuits where they should be open on the regulator, according to the table in the manual. I'm guessing it's shot.

[SYCARMS]

Did you test the stator as well? It would be a good idea to check it as well . If the stator checks good than you know it is the regulator also did you inspect the wires and plugs for good contact. Poor contact and corrosion causes heat which burns components out. TOM

[supertoast92]

Didn't check the stator yet. Contacts all seem just fine, no evidence of corrosion on any of the wires/plugs.

[supertoast92]

Update: It was the regulator. Got a completely redesigned regulator, and I'm thinking that ASW redesigned it for the Carbide. The coolest thing is, the regulator not only includes the main 4-pin connector, but also the 2-pin for the choke. So not only did I manage to fix the charging system, but the idle now works like a champ! Something must've been up with the choke before. I killed (or rather fixed) two birds with one stone.

[SYCARMS]

Great to hear your back in business. TOM