Carbide 150 missing after warmed up

[WDPRINGLE]

Any help will be very much appreciated. My sons 150 is starting up just fine and runs great for a few minutes then it starts missing and will not pull under power. I took the carb off and sprayed carb cleaner and run air through the holes. Put it together and the same thing. Runs great when first started and a few minutes later it starts missing again. Can anyone give me a clue what I should check or replace. Thanks Bill

[olderthan]

check your choke

[WDPRINGLE]

Thanks for the reply. It looks like it has an electric choke. Is there a way to check it other than just get a new one.

[metalstudman1]

It's not a choke like you think- it's an enrichment valve that let's fuel bypass at start and when warmed up it allows more fuel to enter the bowl.Without it, it will be really hard to start(lots of pumping the pedal) but run normal when warm. It sounds like it's working if it starts right up though.Remove the enrichment valve and turn the ignition on or add a power source, watch after a few minutes to see if the needle/plunger moves (it doesn't move out very quickly). Try unplugging it when warmed up and see if the buggy runs.If this doesn't work- check the float angle in the bowl.

[WDPRINGLE]

ok I checked the choke with the pictures I found on the search from buggy master. It was in when cold and run fine for about 5 minutes then started missing again. I took the choke out and the needle did move down. I let it sit there with the power off and it went back in after a few minutes. It looks like it is working, but not sure. I will try running it with it removed and see what happens.

[WDPRINGLE]

I got the buggy warmed up and took the choke/enrichment valve. It idled real high and would not run at all. Can you explain how to the check the float angle in the bowl. I took it all apart the other day and do not remember seeing an adjustment.

[olderthan]

you bend the tabs on the float

[WDPRINGLE]

ok thanks again. Usually dark after work I will check it as soon as I can too what it looks like.

[WDPRINGLE]

ok guys. I have been reading some of the older posts trying to come up with more answers. The exhaust was blocked with the packing and we did take the bolts off and remove the spark arrester. There is a plate/ring or whatever it is in there moving around and rattling. Would this cause the problem I am having with not running once warmed up?

[olderthan]

it shouldn't but the rattle will drive you nuts

[WDPRINGLE]

ok - looks like I am back to checking the float when I get some daylight to work on it again.

[BuggyMaster]

The float being off will cause a different kind of problem. My vote is that your jets are still clogged. You can't always get away with just blowing out the holes, you need to physically remove the jets and soak them in carb cleaner and run a small cleaning tool of some kind through them (but be sure not to enlarge the pilot jet). Did you actually remove the jets?

[SYCARMS]

When warm spray some carb cleaner around the intake manifold, if any change in rpm indicates a vacume leak. The intake is rubber over aluminum and if cracked in the right place will cause a vacume leak. Also there is a plastic isolator under the manifold which are known to crack as well as there are orings which seal the intake and the isolater which could have gone bad. Check your valve adjustment as well.
Tom

[WDPRINGLE]

I never removed the jets. I only sprayed some carb cleaner and blowed air through them. I will unscrew them and see what happens. How do I adjust the float. I understand bending the tabs, but what direction or angle should I be looking for. I will try the carb cleaner around the intake manifold too.

[SYCARMS]

Don't mess with the floats its not your problem, just remove the jets and blow them out.
Tom

[WDPRINGLE]

The float looked fine so I never messed with it. It is really buggin me so I went out with a flashlight and took the carb off. I brought it in and took it apart again. I could see through the jets held up to the light. I though some stuff come out, but not sure. I put it back together and it started right up after a couple pumps and idled just fine. It is a little cooler and I drove it for about 10 minutes and it was running like a top. I thought I had the problem fixed then it started missing again. It will set and idle just fine and only missess on a pull. I run out fo carb cleaner. I am going to pick some up and soak them like buggy master suggested Friday when I get off work. I really apperciate all the help and my boy will if I can get it back running right. Thanks again BIll

[SYCARMS]

Pull the spark plug and observe the color. How does it idle after the 10 minute run?
Tom

[WDPRINGLE]

ok - I pulled the plug cold and there was a little oil on it. It just got done raining and is pretty cool out. I rode it for about 15 minutes before it started missing. I pulled the plug and the tip was a grayish black and the inside was white. What is wierd is I thought it was the plug before and switched it. I put the old one in and it seemed to not miss with it. It there a way the plug would foul out after warmed up then be fine later?

[SYCARMS]

What gap did you set on the plug when installed? What is the gap on the old origional plug? You said he tip was grayish black and the inside white. Explin what you are referring to as inside, if possible can you send a pic of the plug?
Tom

[WDPRINGLE]

I don't have the original plug anymore. These are two different ones I have got from advance. Not sure if these pics will help, but here they are. I never set any gap. I just put them in. What whould the gap be at?

[SYCARMS]

The gap should be .026-.028. You are going to have to drive on the plug more to color so that it can be read. Did they match the new plug with the old by crossing the numbers or just by looks? From what you described earlier, in that it runs fine the first 10 minuted than starts to miss leads me to believe it is a lean mixture problem related to a vacume leak.The reason is that when you first start it you have a very rich mixture due to the ruel enrichment valve alowing plenty of fuel to burn, once the valve closes off the enrichment valve the engine goes lean. Three things come to mind.1) your valves are out of adjustment and too tight keeping intake and exhaust valves slightly open to where engine vacume never reaches operating vacume, check valve adjustmenr of .003 on intake and .005 on exhaust. This must be done cold.2) Intake manifold, isolator under intake, or the o-rings used to seal the surface of intake and isolator are sucking air causing vacume leak. This can be checked by spraying carb cleanner on intake while running looking for change in idle.3) some buggies use the vacume fuel pump which is screwed into the fuel tank. It will have 2 hoses comming from it, one goes to the carb fuel supply nipple, the other to vacume which will go to a T fitting with one line going to the air bleed valve on right side of carb and the other going to the intake vacume nipple. You want to check these lines for cracks. I you just have the gravity feed setup and not the vacume fuel pump your vacume hose will not have the T fitting only one line from the air bleed to intake. Also I see no reference as to what make buggy or year. Supplying this info can also be helpful in determining wheather you have any egr valves or other pollution devices.
Tom

[WDPRINGLE]

It's a ASW carbide 150 from tractor supply that I have had for about a year now. I just had them match the numbers up on the plug. It does have the vacume fuel pump with two lines and a tee on the one. I will try and check the lines and get some more carb cleaner to see if I can find a leak. Thanks BIll

[WDPRINGLE]

I checked the hoses and never found any leaks. I did unhook them and hook them back up. I figured I would ride it until it started acting up and take a pic of the plug. It is pretty cool out today about 50s. I rode that thing for 30 minutes and it never did act up. I guess I have to wait on a warm day to see if it does it again. Would the temp out affect the lean mixture problem. If it does it again I will get the guage and try to check the valves, but I have never tried that before. I did watch a video and think I could attempt it though. Thanks

[SYCARMS]

If I understood correctly your origional plug was replaced due to the missing, you installed a new plug and had the same problem, than you went back to the old plug and it was fine. From what you have described the carb is clean and the choke operates. I do not recall but did you replace the fuel in tank?
Make sure you have good fuel in the tank, two weeks is all it takes for the fuel with ethanol to start going bad, than check to make sure your plug is at the proper gap, than check your valve clearence. And check for vacume leaks at the manifold. Once all these are confirmed to be correct we can go on trouble shooting if the problem still exists. Their can be so many differant things to cause the problem you have so you have to start with the easiest first but it is important to make sure what you checked is good cause if you miss one thing and continue on it will all be in vane.
Tom

[Jtown]

The Carbide that my buddy bought this weekend was doing the EXACT same thing.
After I:
-Cleaned the carb
-checked the plug
-Checked the fuel filter
-drained and filled with good gas.

Same thing.

Then, I noticed that the inside of his gas cap looked like someone melted it. That relief valve was melted shut.

I put my gas cap on. Problem solved!

[SYCARMS]

Goon thought, I have heard of this before but personally have never run into it. Could be blockage in the vent hose or the ethanol has gotten to the plastic.

Tom

[suggsj12]

clean the air filter i had the same thang

[suggsj12]

the air filter get cloged up and couses to miss when you try to go hi speed