Please help!! cater 150cc

[prosteveo]

i have a carter 150cc it used to run perfect then it has just sat around for a couple of years. I started working on getting it running again my only issue with it is. i cleaned the carb changed the gas lines bought a new fuel petcock and fuel filer put on a uni filer and new gas and new plug. My PROBLEM IS that it starts up right now and idles perfect but when i go to drive it at full throttle it seems to bog down and spit and sputter some times it seems to bee running fine i just dont get it !!! it seems to have good spark so i just dont understand.
PLEASE HELP ANY SUGGESTION'S PLEASE HELP

[olderthan]

welcome to the group-after changing to a uni you may need to rejet

[prosteveo]

can you recommend somewhere i can get jets

[EJ Mac]

The blue banner at the top of this page. You need to rejet real soon as your motor is probably super lean now, which can result in a toasted motor.

[BuggyMaster]

how did you clean your jets?

[SYCARMS]

You will deffinately need to rejet but you also need to open up the exhaust as well. Due to the carb setting up sp long you will probably need to soak it along with the jets than blow everything out with compressed air. Make sure to blow out the tiny orifices and passages in the carb as well. I keep the jets in stock.
Tom

[prosteveo]

well to answer your questions i cleaned the car by taking the main and low speed jets out float every thing including my chock cleaned every thing.The jets are clear i can see light when i hold them up to a light there clean.i used carb cleaner and compressed air. My exhaust has the silencer taken out also the muffler is broke where the pipe and exhaust are welded together. so the muffler just slides over the pipe but it ran fine after that i think like i said its been sitting for a while. It seems to run a lil better the longer i drive it. you can feel it. its got power then it loses it it weird i think i do have to rejet it but i took the main/highspeed jet out and there are no numbers on it how do you tell what jet you have? what jets do you think i should start testing with thanks alot guys for helping.
p.s the thing idles like a purring cat thats what leads me to think its jets

[prosteveo]

tom i was wondering if you had a strut for the passanger side of a carter 150r?

[prosteveo]

Just a thought i have been reading alot on this forum and i have heard similar storys. what do you think about valve clearance would somthing like that cuase it to bog down and just not have ANY power when give gas?

[SYCARMS]

Some times the jets are very hard to read and sometimes just plain impossible. The size is either stamped or scribed in the very top or side. The stock come with anywhere from a 108 to a 114 size jet. Depending on the carb you will go anyewhere from a 122 to 125 jet. Most require a 125. The jetting will deffinately cause a bog especially around 1/3 throttle since at this point is where the main jet starts to come into play. The valves will also cause problems. If they have never been adjusted before than they could be too tight. This is common on new engines for when the valve seats fully seat themselves in the head during the breakin process the lash becomes too tight. But usually this also effects idle as well. You should still check that the lash is .003" on intake and .005" on exhaust.If you give me a call I will need the year of your buggy as well as some measurements of the strut. Some of the early carters used the same strut as most other buggies using this suspension type.It all depends on the year and if it were made in the Hammerhead factory . Tom

[BuggyMaster]

Another thing to look at it how your vacuum lines are. There is a line that goes to the right side of the carburetor (when standing at the rear of the buggy facing forward) that allows your CVT slide to function properly. How's it look?

[prosteveo]

yea the vacuum lines look good and are not clogged. as far as the main jet goes i took it out and looked there are no stamp marks anywhere on the jet. what size jet would you guys think i should start with.
Thanks again for helping on this project

[SYCARMS]

A .125 main jet should be just perfect with a UNI and gutted exhaust.
Tom

[prosteveo]

ok thanks
tom ill try that then if that works ill call about getting a strut thanks again for all this help

[SYCARMS]

Glad to help.

Tom

[prosteveo]

well guys i got 120 and 125 jets didnt seem to do much felt a lil better but still has no power. The guys at the shop where i usually go to for parts and where the buggy was purchased . they said that they dont think its valves because it idles perfect. the original jet that i took out of the carb seems to be the same size as the 120 maybe a hair smaller but i dont think so. Theres got to be somthing else i am missing if you have any more suggestions that would be very help full thanks again. HERES WHAT IT DOES (starts right up and idles perfect just has no power under full throttle. it has open exhaust and uni cleaned carb new petcock, new gas lines,new plug and fresh gas)

[SYCARMS]

Check spark again making sure it is a blue color. If good than pull your cvt cover and make sure the belt is returning and not stuck, also check that a roller is not stuck or turned sideways. I you put it on stands and pull rear tires, with cover off you can run it accelerating while watching that the cvt is working. If you are stuck in a higher gear you will not have the power to get up to speed. Also look at the plug, this will tell you if rour running lean, rich or just right. Check these and report your findings than we will go from there.
Tom

[prosteveo]

how do i check the roller? Do i have to take the clutch apart to check that? also i am pretty sure its not that because you can feel and hear that its just not running right it pops some times thru the intake and back fires. iam going to go mess with it ill let you guys know.

[SYCARMS]

OK start the buggy and let it warm up, than drive say for a 1/4 mile or equivilent. Try to limit idle time except for warm up In other words drive it than bring to shop garage ect. as quickly as possible than shut it down. Pull your plug and observe. What color is the rim, porcelin insulator, ground tip. Note along with color, if black, is it shiiney or chalky. Connect plug to plug wire, ground the plug body to the engine not frame, have somebody spin the engine over and note the color of the spark, should be bright blue and consistent with rotation of engine. Put your plug back in the engine, start and run engine while spraying carb cleaner or starting fluid on and around intake, pay attention to the idle. Is there any change. You will have to regulate the pressure of the spray so that the overspray is not sucked in the filter for this will give you a false reading. I would also check your valve clearance for .003 Intake and .005 exhaust. This has to be done on a cold engine. If out of adjustment note which way either too tight or too loose if out. Post all the info you get from your results. This should give us enough info to eliminate certain areas and put us in the right dirrection.

Tom

[prosteveo]

i have done all that except the valve clearance. The pug is diffidently chalky which means its not getting enough gas. there is no air leaks in the vacuums line or the intake manifold. i did notice that the vacuum line that goes to the carburetor. that cover that the line connects to i took that off and i can barley get a bread tie threw there. Its not clogged its just the way they machined it so i am thinking that it might not be getting enough pressure to the gas tank to let the fuel flow right. On the other hand the buggie did run fine a couple of years ago with this same carburetor! The sparks seems to be pretty blue so i think iam good there. i will buy some feeler gauges tomorrow and check the valves. I did put the buggie on a stand and started it. It idles fine and when i give it full throttle it revs up you can still tell that it doesnt have all the power it could have but at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle it misses and sputters and pops back up threw the carb.
Thanks tom for helping me with this i really appreciate all the help from every one thanks!!!!

[metalstudman1]

Just guessing-Could the CDI or coil be failing? I had this same issue (backfire thru carb at higher rpm's) with a 110cc and a new CDI & coil is what cured it.

[SYCARMS]

If the vacune line you speak of runs to a valve on the right side of the carb(passenger side) that is normal to be small. That is the air bleed which purpose is to stabilize the air/fuel mixture when going from wide open throttle to idle. It keeps the engine from dieing out. You said that the plug is chalkey. Is it black in color? If so you are not running lean, but on the rich side. Now as stated in previous post, it could be the cdi or coil breaking down. Also make sure that the 2 wires that plug into the back of the coil are a snug fit. I have experianced problems such as yours if they are too loose and not making good contact. I have also had some that were just barely connected. Also what is your location?
Tom

[prosteveo]

I live in Wisconsin. The plug is half blackish and the other is white i can tell its not getting enough gas also i had thought about the cdi and coil already is there any way to test it with a meter. i went to napa today to get a feeler gauge so ill check the valves tomorrow it was just to damm cold today. AGAIN THANKS GUYS

[SYCARMS]

If you can explain which part of the plug is black and which is white. From my exoeriance if the plug is white this means it is lean. If you had a spark issue this usually leads to a black fouled plug due to the lack of spark at times or weak spark not completely burning the fuel leaving a black carbon deposite. I believe there to be a thread here for manuals which will have trouble shooting for the cdi and coil, if not send me your e-mail and i can e-mail something. What color is the rim at edge of threads? What color is the porcelan insulator? What color is the electrode and ground.this is what spark jumps. You can also give me a call @ 662-301-1563
Tom

[prosteveo]

Sure that sounds good my email is riddlesteven@yahoo.com send me an email with your email and ill send you pictures i have a good camera

[SYCARMS]

Cincider it done

[ckau]

One detail ,often overlooked especialy after a carb cleaning is the float level. too low will cause a full throttle miss and show a lean condition. too high a level will cause iradic idle, bogging down at part throttle but will run fairly smooth on top end. but will show rich.
remove float bowl , invert, hold level, let the float sit natural. float should sit paralel with the edge of the bowl. don't push or pull on the float it's self! slightly bend tab at the needle and seat to adjust. Don't push the needle valve into the seat!

[prosteveo]

thanks ckau i think that was my problem. now i did check my plug after i adjusted the float and it seems to be running lean. but if i raise the float to much it wont even rev up it just bogs down and dies now i have it running pretty good but it just seems lean does anyone know how i can get it to run richer. thanks for all the help guys i mean it
i couldnt have got this far with out you guys!!!

[BuggyMaster]

what size main jet do you have in it now?

[SWT]

One thing I didn`t see mentioned here is your stock intake manifold. They are bad for cracking. May wanna check that. Also, how did you attach the Uni ? The 150 seems to do best with a 6" intake tube.

[prosteveo]

i have a 125 jet in it now and yes the uni will be hooked up like that right now i dont have a filter on it just because i kept taking the carb on and off. that wouldnt make it run lean would it if there was no filter.

[SWT]

Yes, that would make it run extremely lean without a filter.

[prosteveo]

Well thanks for all the help sorry i didnt post anything for a while but i think i figured it out i have been messing with the float and i think i have it almost there still sputters a lil bit at 1/4 throttle but has good acceleration and speed. so im almost happy with it. thanks again guys