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Go Kart General Discussion Forum for general go kart discussion. |
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#1
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yerfdog torque converter
I have a yerf dog 3202 the chain was loose when i bought it so i slid the jack shaft back. but now i notice the torque converter belt is loose. and the engine won't slide forward
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#2
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remove a link in the chain and slide it back
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#3
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I was able to tighten the chain by sliding the jack shaft back.
But the belt is loose on the torque converter and it seam the engine and jack shift move together |
#4
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the belt is supposed to be a little loose so it will idle
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#5
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is says it should be a 1/8 to 3/16 past the shaft mine is like an inch
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#6
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probably the wrong belt
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#7
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so this should not have to be adjusted
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#8
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Can you post a pic of your engine and CVT system to see if all of it is stock? If the motor and jackshaft/driven unit move together then there is NO adjustment for the belt. I made a plate for my driven unit that slid under the motor that let me adjust the chain and belt seperately. I'll try and find an older post about this with the picture of it.
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#9
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http://buggymasters.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1039 post#14. 1st pic is of slide plate version
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#10
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If I remember right, the entire plate sliding will adjust the jackshaft and then the engine has its own plate too. Kind of like a plate on plate system.
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#11
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i will post a pic
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#12
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i think it has 2 plates but the jack shaft plate is so far back it won't let me move the engine
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#13
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so i checked and it has a single plate with th jack shaft on it with engine bolted on top of it.
IMAG0120.jpg |
#14
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also so how low should the frontend be i'm 200 lbs and it's a bear to steer
would new shocks help |
#15
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Can you take a pic of the back of the motor? and the front of the kart to see if it looks like it's supposed to, the shocks!!(pogo sticks) don't hold much weight. Are the tires angled inward when you're in it? Also the belt in the pic looks narrow and I don't see the brass bushing that sets on the clutch pulley shaft.
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#16
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there is a fitting on the otherside. is that where it goes?
The arms are level when i'm in it. was going to put square tube in there |
#17
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There is usually a spacer bushing (steel) on the engine side of the clutch.You should have a brass bushing that the belt rides on to eliminate excessive heat when idling. When you say square tube- Do you mean replace the shocks with tube?
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#18
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[attach]IMAG0123.jpg[/attach]
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#19
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Everything looks good and normal. Your jackshaft should have two 3/8" holes under or just behind the jackshaft and on the other end of the plate it should have two 3/8" slotted holes if not 2 sets of slotted holes. The welded engine plate in the frame should have 3 sets of slotted holes for the engine & jackshaft to slide away from each other. Is this what you have? Your front end looks really good and if the shocks as you say sit level while you're seated then you need to find a stiffer shock (but not TOO stiff). Easy to steer if A-arms are angled down or level but HARD to steer if from level to angled up.The ball joints have only so much angle of travel and with the A-arms pointing up they'll probably be maxed out and in a bind.
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#20
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new mech. shocks or air shocks?
i think the jack shaft is so far back it won't let me slide the engine forward, the bolt hits the most forward part of the slot. |
#21
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Hydraulic shocks should work well- I haven't ever considered air shocks for a kart or buggy,might work. If you could find a used set of 12" atv shock you'd probably eliminate the sagging frontend issue and greatly improve on it's drivability. Gas shocks are the top end solution but very expensive. Did you accquire the other Yerfdog you were looking at?
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#22
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checkout my 3202 rear shocks , from a shadow 500, too long engine at a angle , but rides fine ,
was going to put these, http://www.*************.com/item.as...catname=wheels , but the shadows ones were 15$ delivered , used triumph 12" on the front not sure off what bike, one thing I did to fix the steering was to set the fronts to harder settings , really helped handling. but ended up upgrading them |
#23
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http://www.buggymasters.com/forum/al...pictureid=1241 ,
checkout the front seat pull starter I made with a pulley from ace . My pull starter faces the front |
#24
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your pull start look great the wheel not so much
i just got my yerf and am doing some mod how do you like the 6.5hp i'm guess thats what yours is. mine is a dog still has the stock 6.0hp on it |
#25
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harbor frieght has the6.5hp on sale for 80 buck if you use the 20% coupon going get one today
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#26
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motors are great ,bought an extra one . modded pipe,jets.degoverned, I changed my sprocket to 8 tooth to get more power, but lost top speed, 29 mph ,
really wished was faster but dont want the belts to slip and wear out prematurely . the chassis squeaked and banged alot , I lossened and retightened all the bolts, like 10 or so and put rubberspacers between the pipes . no more clunking . best mod yet. gonna finish the fenders , cree flashlight mounts for night driving , hopefully bigger front tires . my brakes suck , im gonna try a new band , maybe switch to disc. let me know what you figure out ! |
#27
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the motor has a shorter shaft than the original , so you need a longer bolt to hold the driver unit .
also I remember having a slight misallignment after it was mounted so I used a few washers to get it straight . hooking up the throttle cable went easy for me , but ive seen troubles on forums . definately worth all the work though . get all the hardware in one trip ! good luck! |
#28
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just picked up a manco dingo single seater for my son great project for grandpa next week. and picku pa 6.5hp engine just in case
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#29
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both karts are running got the 6.5 hp on the yerf not as doggy but ok for now. the hf 13hp is calling my name
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#30
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The 13 hp means a few more bucks on the clutch system but means you'll have LOTS of torque.
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#31
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There no need for now my son is 7 yr old and still learning to control his kart.
So I can keep up fine. Will need more power if riding gets more extreme. |
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