Big bore kit

[buggytime]

I have a HH GTS 150cc that I was thinking about upgrading with all the bells and wistles. What are the pros and cons of upgrading the buggy to a 200cc. Who has the best kit for the best price? I am pretty mechanically inclined but new to the buggy world.

Thanks,

Mike

[chuckorlando]

Tom Syc is the man for your motor work. The only down side to maxing out a 150 is the 250 riders cry cause your faster. Thats not a joke either. I have a fully built 150 that will beat my hh250 by 3 links in 300ft. I had Tom do a 180bb, large port head, a12 cam, and a stroker crank. I have sence gone with a port and polish head. It's hard to find a 250 that will spin 24in mud lites and my 150 will do it

[BuggyMaster]

Originally Posted by chuckorlando

The only down side to maxing out a 150 is the 250 riders cry cause your faster.

Tom is your man for sure. Tell him what you want and he can hook you up.

[buggytime]

Thanks for the info. How do I get in touch with Tom. I am in Arizona so I will have to pull the engine and ship it.

Mike

[EJ Mac]

Originally Posted by buggytime

Thanks for the info. How do I get in touch with Tom. I am in Arizona so I will have to pull the engine and ship it.

Mike

Right at the top of this page is a blue banner that says SYC Powersports just click on that and click on contact us. That is his site. Great guy who really knows his stuff on these GY6's.

[BuggyMaster]

You can also het him via telephone at (662)-301-1563

[buggytime]

Thanks for the info on Tom. I called and left a message. Tom called me back and we talked buggy for over an hour. Great guy with a wealth of knowledge.

Mike

[Pro Diablo]

i want a big bore kit for my hh also. how muc did he say it will cost for everthing? also. did u think of putting a cam on while he was putting on a bore kit. i like the a 12. it is for bottom end power.

[kliff]

If you're gonna do it yourself, and buying parts only, DON'T spend any money till you've compared prices between at least 5 dealers!

[chuckorlando]

While comparing the price compare the product. They are not always the same

[bige]

there are some kits that are cheaper but are cheaper quality. I have a 61mm slip in bb on my wifes hammerhead along with a stroker crank.

[kliff]

The biggest concern, is that the person doing the work, not only be proficient, but have the correct toolage to do the work. Like this NCY case boring tool, for installing the larger jugs on the 150 cases, and the knowledge to re-route oil passages, if a "break through occurs.

NCY 150 "kit" with a few extras...


But when it came to doing the 50cc cases, most everyone was hogging them out with dremel tools, not even dissassembling the engine. Later, blaming the crank bearing failures on the BBK, instead of their own inapptitude, and the foreign matter left in the cases to destry the lower end.

Since I had a 150 tool, I scaled it down about 7/8ths, and made a fixture and flycutter to do 50cc cases too.....


NCY150 on the right, homemade 50, on the left...



All's I'm saying, is be sure you hire a professional, that has the tools, and know-how.

[SYCARMS]

Kliff is right, the proper tools are a must as well as know how. When boring the case it is easy to bore off center or pennitrate the oil galley if you don't know what your doing. So many try the cheap route to avoid paying the price of boring a case only to be dissapointed when engine failure accures. The actual boring process does not take that long, its the setup that takes time and this is what you pay for. If not set up precicely you end up with a trashed case. The bore must be centered with the proper clearance between the case and cylinder to compensate for expansion due to the 2 dissimular metals which have differant expansion rates. TOM

[kliff]

Exactly, time and set-up, are what's costly.

Tom, you are the first I've seen even mention expansion rates, so I know you must have a handle on it. Those were lessons hard learned by a lot of us older guys when doing BBK kits on VW's back in the 60's & 70's. The amount of magnesium in their aluminum alloy was wild, with expansion rates, specially on racing(drag) engines. Where a full warm up temp and beyond, often wasn't seen until the engine shut down, and started equalizing. It was about then, we found heli-coils to be our best freind on the cylinder studs, as they gave a wider footprint in the soft alloy cases, and acted as a heat sink medium, or step between the alloy, and plain steel VW stud. They work quite well on GY6's too, same reason.

Later man, I'm sure anyone needing your services will get excellent work, done by a knowledgeable Mechanic.

[RedTeam]

someone pm on some rates and what it will incurr.. i am thinking about going this route!
thanks