Yefr 3206 bad ball joints..replace??

[Sparkiewalt]

I have a yerf 3206. the passengers side upper and lower ball joints are just flopping around every where, the driver side seems fine. Can I beat out the old joints and beat in new ones?? or will I have to have them pressed out/In??
Also where do I order new ones.

[metalstudman1]

There's a "C" clip that holds them in.

[Sparkiewalt]

thanks a lot metal..I did not see the clips..I will order a new set..have a great day...

[metalstudman1]

I'm sure you're aware that the stock ball joint is part of the reason Yerfdog went under (lawsuits from excessive failures) Have you considered any other opportunities besides the stock replacement?

[Sparkiewalt]

I did not know that..this is my first cart, I am totally new to the cart world. Where should I go for a after market option???

[metalstudman1]

Not supposed to advertise for other sites-Do a search for HD ball joints for your Yerf-There are kits out there that you don't need to modify the A-arms.

[GX150]

Kart Mart, BMI Karts and Buggy Depot have Yerf specific parts.

[Sparkiewalt]

Thanks for all of the help guys. the google search turned up. the HD aftermarket set of ball joints are $100...durn I only paid $300 for the whole cart...LOL. I have already had to straighten the spindles and re-weld them..looks like these were the 2 weak points in the cart...it is a shame yerf did not put a little more research into the kart before they released it, a few weeks of hard riding would have revealed these weaknesses. I have heard positive things about the engines. maybe it will turn out to be a good kart now. are there any other upgrades that you would recommend??

[GX150]

Buggy Depot has many upgrade parts for the Yerf. Look at their upgrade offerings to see where the Yerf weak points are.

Yerf-Dogs use the Howhit GY6 engine that has better flowing stock head due to larger valves. The final transmission uses the lowest gearing available and the the frame is lighter than many of the others. This gives the Yerf a performance edge over any other stock 150.

The front suspension rides much better than any of the strut-based buggies, but is more prone to damage in an accident than something with shorter a-arms. Once you upgrade ball joints, spindles, shocks and front wheels, you have a solid front end.

Yerfs are the simplest GY6 buggies available. They only have a rear brake with no provision for a parking or front brakes. The headlights are powered directly off the stator and there are no other lights or switches (except kill and start) or horns. They do not come with reverse so you plan your turns or get out and move it. They have plastic molded seats with 3-point seat belts that can easily be hosed down.

[metalstudman1]

You got a good deal for $300. and it runs!!! Just so you'll know- the HD ball joints are what they say they are! I've yet to do a Heim up-grade because they haven't failed yet in 3 years of constant abuse-my wife drives her Yerf 3 or more days a week through heavily wooded trails. Search this site for additional upgrades that these forum members have done to weigh your options.

[Sparkiewalt]

thanks a lot guys. this buggy will be used in some semi-rough terrain..my kids are loving it so far...it actually runs really good.

[SYCARMS]

Let us know where you are and the terrain you will be mostly driving and we can guide you in tunning the cvt and or engine mods.

TOM

[Sparkiewalt]

I live just outside of Savannah GA. most of the terrain is sandy/uneven. I have a CDI coil that came with the buggy, the previous owner claimed it "burnt" something up. I am not sure the coil was his problem, it appears he took the buggy to someone who just started replacing parts. the parts I have in a box he gave me.. A complete carburetor, a small square thing that has a wire connection in the top, (not sure what it does but the engine runs fine with it disconnected, I think it controls the electric control valve on the carb.), chain, and the CDI coil. He said the mechanic put the old coil back on and replaced all this other stuff to get it running..not sure why he replaced the carburetor, they are pricey and usually do not go bad or can be just rebuilt/cleaned. I have been thinking about testing out the CDI coil to see if it really is bad or if it was some other problem he had.

[300cpilot]

I love getting those extra mystery parts! Sorry nothing really to add I hope these guys get you going.

[metalstudman1]

Take pic's of the spare parts- the fuel enrichment valve(elctronic control valve) on the carb is important for start-up, are you having to pump the gas to get it started?The simple test for your CDI or coil is to swap it out on your running engine- it'll either work or won't!

[SYCARMS]

The small square thing with wire attached, would it be more rectangular with a green wire ( some are red) being silver in color? If this is what you have then it is a resistor for the fuel enrichment valve. This sets a resistance value of 10ohms, which controls the rate at which the plunger extends. Without this you it will do 2 things, 1) shorten the life of the plunger and 2) close the enrichment valve too quickly before the engine gets to operating temp. Also if the resistor is eliminated by just disconnecting then the enrichment valve will not work since it will not be grounded. True is the fact that the Howlet engine is one of the best, but not due to the larger valves. Howlet was the origional manufacture of the GY6 for Honda. The GY6 used to be a 125cc engine in which the early Yerf Dogs came with. Later by increasing the bore and stroke this made them 149cc, but even Yerf Dog used the same smaller valve head as the 125cc. So if it is an early Yerf Dog it can either be a 125cc or even a 149cc with small valves.There weren't many of these made before the changes were made. Sometime in 2005 the larger valve heads were used. This is also true for 90% of the GY6 engines imported into the US. You will have to drive the buggy then let us know the weak points of performance for us to steer you in the direction you will want to go.
Most will mod the cvt with a yellow torque spring and clutch springs, 12 gram rollers. A performance variator will be a bit larger with differant ramping for better shifting and performance. There are many upgrades for the engine as well, eg. stroker crank, big bore kit, cam's 4 valve head. Any big bore larger then a 59mm will need the case bored.

TOM

[Sparkiewalt]

Thanks for all of the very helpful advice. I think I will be limiting my upgrades to simple stuff like testing the cdi coil, maybe trying to mod the exhaust for free flow and better air flow. I read that carb jet size needs to be increased when this is done, so I can play around with that, but I will leave the engine alone until it blows, hopefully it never will. I beefed up the front spindles my self with some extra welds, it still may need the upgraded ones but these will hold for a while. still waiting on the ball joints to get in. I will take some pics later. the rectangle thingy is for the fuel enrichment valve, I have it disconnected, seems to start/run fine without it. maybe winter time will change that.