hello from tx - BuggyMasters.Com - An On Line Mini Buggy Forum and Go Kart Forum

speedster · #1 09-29-2011, 11:40 AM

Hello all, Going to pick up the son and mines first go Kart/buggy this saturday

got my hands on a nice 09 ASW helix 150. i only have a medium sized trailer and was wondering if any one knew the wheel base of the kart?Thanks.

metalstudman1 · #2 09-29-2011, 08:12 PM

Approx.5' x 7'

Chas91909 · #3 09-29-2011, 09:44 PM

Hello I have a 08 helix 150cc. I have never had to do any work to it and I just started having problems with it. When I turn the key the starter relay justs clicks. Is there a way to bypass this to figure out if this is the problem. Thank you

speedster · #4 09-30-2011, 10:07 AM

thanks metalstudman, looks like it will work!

speedster · #5 09-30-2011, 10:12 AM

im not sure if you can jump the solinoids on the buggy. i wont have mine in hand till tomorow afternoon. but will be in that area of the buggy couse who im buying it from said that the starter is bad. i wonder if this is common? im sure i will start at the battery and work my way back to the starter.

metalstudman1 · #6 09-30-2011, 10:03 PM

Of the 7- GY6 engines we've owned and thrashed- never had a starter go bad.You can jump the battery-starter leads at the solenoid to check if the starter is bad or battery lead on solenoid to starter terminal.(use something insulated as sparks will appear!) Welcome and congrat's on the new purchase, hope you and your son have some fun.

**SYCARMS** · #7 10-01-2011, 11:21 AM

Welcome to the addiction.

TOM

speedster · #8 10-01-2011, 12:08 PM

grrr!! 1st set back, buggy cant be picked up tii tomorrow afternoon.

speedster · #9 10-01-2011, 12:10 PM

thanks Tom, cant wait to get her in my hands

uthe54 · #10 10-02-2011, 04:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chas91909

Hello I have a 08 helix 150cc. I have never had to do any work to it and I just started having problems with it. When I turn the key the starter relay justs clicks. Is there a way to bypass this to figure out if this is the problem. Thank you

Lot of times when it just clicks, I have found its because of a low battery. You might try jumping it, our hooking it to a slow charger for an and see if there is any difference.

speedster · #11 10-02-2011, 05:03 PM

hey, i got our helix home this afternoon!!! found it to have a good starter, good solinoid,low battery, but on a charger turns over fine with the key. the problem it has is no spark. is this common on the helix 150? and is there a way to test if the coil is putting out? cant wait to hit the trail!!

speedster · #12 10-02-2011, 07:54 PM

just got fire back. cleaned conections , tightened spark plug boot, checked all wires, reinstalled, walla spark!! still not runnin. cleaning carb and tank now. any other sugestions?

**SYCARMS** · #13 10-03-2011, 10:22 AM

If the buggy sat up anytime at all the ethanol in the fuel will like crystilise and plug everything up. Do you have a bright blue spark? If available use only fuel with no ethanol added and you will be trouble free as far as the fuel system goes. I found stations who carry it by Googleing Non ethanol fuel with my zip as well as neighboring zips and got a list of stations that carry the fuel. It's about 20-30 cents more a gallon but well worth the money.When you tear down the carb just invest in some carb dip to dip the carb and let soak over night then you can clean with warm water and blow out all orifices with compressed air. Carb cleaners in the can won't always completely clean the carb if it sat up for a long time.

TOM

speedster · #14 10-03-2011, 07:34 PM

thanks tom, had to work all day, just got back to it. the carb is blowin fuel out of a opening on the intake side of the carb, and i think its the overflow or vent tube on the left side of the carb is pouring fuel out as well. sounds like i need a major carb cleaning. could there be a line in the wrong place cousing bypass or is it just a cloged passage? the needle is working properly as well. any other help would be great. thanks for the 0 ethenal tip ill look.

metalstudman1 · #15 10-03-2011, 09:20 PM

All the fuel coming out of the overflows indicates that the float may be in a bind or not floating, main needle jet is clogged or stuck. Tom is right it sounds like the carb is gunked up with fuel crystalization. Make sure you clean EVERY hole-verify you can see through it or air/fluid will pass through it.This issue will NOT go away with use/running the engine.

speedster · #16 10-03-2011, 10:47 PM

thanks alot, going to soak it overnight. will let you know how it works out.

speedster · #17 10-04-2011, 11:26 AM

bad news!! 0 compression, looks like a new jug and piston. what options do i have?

speedster · #18 10-04-2011, 12:05 PM

another thing, with 0 compression would this lead 1 to beleve it is a stuck valve or blown seal?

**SYCARMS** · #19 10-04-2011, 12:50 PM

First make sure throttle is wide open when performing compression check.Usually if you have no compression it would indicate bad open valve, or rings are totally worn. Try squirting 2-3 squirts of engine oil in cylinder then retest compression. If the compression rises rings are bad, if not valve is bad. After these checks pull the head to see how head looks and also inspect the cylinder for any scratched, wear or gouging. Let us know what you find then we can let you know what rout to take.

TOM

speedster · #20 10-04-2011, 01:37 PM

doing the oil test now. another thing is when in cranking it there is air blowing out of the carb... not sure. again a valve broke? ill let you know thanks for the help.

speedster · #21 10-04-2011, 01:46 PM

k did oil test. rose up to 60 lbs. but had oil spitting out of the intake where the carb mounts on. going to pull head now.

GX150 · #22 10-04-2011, 01:56 PM

Adjust your valves and check cam timing. Your valve lash may be set too tight and the valve never closes.

speedster · #23 10-04-2011, 02:56 PM

ok got it all apart, but everything looks to be in order as far as the cylinder goes it is smooth as silk, the piston and head have alittle carbon build up on them but all in all looks good. cam mark apeared to be alittle off though. what should i check next? thanks for the help.

**SYCARMS** · #24 10-04-2011, 03:38 PM

Take your head holding it parrelel and squirt some penatrant oil carb cleanner or like (must be thin) into intake and exhaust runner.Then watch for any leaks from the valves. Very slight seepage can be corrected by lapping the valve, heavy leak indicated bentor sticking valve. If you can post some pics of the piston, cylinder, and head, to determine if what you see is carbon or burned oil buildup. From your last comp. test it indicates worn rings. When repeating a wet test after a dry test shows low comp. if the pressure rises this indicates rings since the thick oil seals the rings, but cannot seal a valve. Usually you should get some compression checking dry if only rings are the problem unless the cylinder is dammaged. It seems as though you may have ring and valve issues, pictures will help determine. The timming being off a little should not affect compression. Let us know what you find and we'll get you back on path. Just one last question, how did you check timming? What marks were observed at flywheel and cam and explain just how much it was off.

TOM

speedster · #25 10-04-2011, 04:23 PM

to check timing i lined the t up with the mark for tdc then for the cam gear i referanced the large hole in between the two smaller holes it was off center a bit. i put everything back together and ajusted the valves to .004, redid the compression test with the same results..well for the most part it built up 10 or 15 lbs on the dry test this time. pretty sure it will be the rings, but everything looks good and clean on the inside. then again ive seen stranger. ill get it back apart, shoot some pics and post them up. till then im interested in all input on this. thanks again. would you let me know what a cylinder kit from you would cost? i live in houston tx. ill do the valve leak test when i get it back apart.

**SYCARMS** · #26 10-04-2011, 04:42 PM

If the cylinder looks good a set of rings run $20.50 + S/H. this will get you on the road.You can also upgrade to a 59mm drop in big bore kit. These are quality Taiwon made using a steel hardened cylinder sleve VS. the cast iron cyl. and has the chromium rings for $120.00 + S/H

TOM

speedster · #27 10-04-2011, 04:58 PM

thanks tom ill put the pics up soon just got it back apart

speedster · #28 10-04-2011, 05:47 PM

hey, i was lookin at the head fixing to do the valve leak test and noticed i can see light around both of the valves on the bottom of the head.. will this seat tight with combustion or could this be a reason for no compression?

**SYCARMS** · #29 10-04-2011, 06:53 PM

The springs should seat the valves. Put the head on a hard surface and with the palm of your hand sharply push down on the valve with as much force as possible, then letting it snap back, you may want to use a glove. Do this several times then check to see if the valve closes, if not chances are very good the valves are bent. What your checking for is to see if the valve is maybe stuck due to carbon or setting up for a long time.

TOM

speedster · #30 10-04-2011, 09:32 PM

thanks for all the help. i ran out of time this afternoon, but will have the pics of everything alittle after 9:00 am. im a boat mechanic, and work on alot of jetskies, and from what im seeing the cylinder walls look great and the piston and rings look good to. i will post the pics so i can get your thoughts on it. again i really apreciate all the help.thanks

speedster · #31 10-05-2011, 10:31 AM

ok so her is what im working with

**SYCARMS** · #32 10-05-2011, 01:13 PM

Although the rings look ok in the pic the fouling on top of piston is oil fouling, my guess is the rings are worn, cylinder looks ok, valves look to be slightly open and when looking at the piston crown in area of valve reliefs is appears from what I am looking at that the valves have struck the piston. If you give me a call 662-301-1563 I could better help you determine what has happened and why, but I would need you in area of engine as I ask questions.

TOM

speedster · #33 10-05-2011, 01:36 PM

k ill be next to the engine a little later this afternoon. would i be safe to just replace the head, piston,and rings?

**SYCARMS** · #34 10-05-2011, 10:06 PM

You may be able to get by with just valves and rings. Give me a call so I can ask some questions.

TOM

speedster · #35 10-11-2011, 11:17 PM

been a minute, but up and runnin now! i have sence bought a new head with valves(only option with local parts house)and replaced the rings, was missing the air box when i got it so i got a uni filter for it today. but... with the filter installed it seems to have lost power. is that becouse i need to re jet? if so what should i go to? running with no filter or box on it now for best results. cant get it to idle unless i hold my hand over the carb intake. starved of gas? also have to pump the gas to get it to start, would that be the electric choke?

**SYCARMS** · #36 10-14-2011, 02:08 AM

If your choke (enrichment valve) is not working you will run rich when the engine warms. It sounds to me like you have a vacume leak at intake manifold base or a timming issue. Go back and make sure you have it in proper timming then check for vacume leak. Yes you will have to rejet when adding a uni filter but it should not cause it not to run or start, this is why I believe you have either a vacume leak or timming issue.

TOM

speedster · #37 10-14-2011, 11:14 AM

thanks for the reply, i was going to pick up my jets today and from what i can tell i should go for a 125 main, if the filter was all i have changed. does that sound right? i will also check for a vac or intake leak today. and timing again as well. thanks again for the reply.