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  #1  
Old 01-08-2012, 11:23 PM
shootistpd27 shootistpd27 is offline
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Default Spiderbox oil changing tips and suggestions?

I got my 4209 running pretty well. I am waiting for my accountant to let me know if I can afford the aquisition of four new ball joints and two heavy duty spindles. I wasted the better part of yesterday trying to find a local parts provider so I could buy oil filters for both of my gy6 powered karts, when I found the supplier who sold them, he was out, but told me that all I had to do was clean the screens out and put the old ones back in. First, should I replace the screen each time, or will blowing them out with carb cleaner and letting them drive be sufficient? Also, on my yerf dog I found the oil plug and filter plug on the underside of the engine of course, but the protective plate several inches below the engine procudes a quandry of how to drain the oil without making a huge mess on the porch my wife is extremely irritated that I am using for kart central. I would appreciate any tips that you veterans have as to the servicing of these machines, and any tips on tuning them up while I am waiting to revamp the front end. Thank you all in advance for any and all suggestions. And yes, I know very little about these small marvels but I am addicted to them none the less.
  #2  
Old 01-09-2012, 08:24 AM
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satoys satoys is offline
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shootistpd27 - just a heads up on my oil change... Went to take out the drain plug, and the bolt head started stripping ! Sad to say it is now a round 1/2' nipple, even vise grips could not get it loose. When reading to try and find a solution, seems the aluminum threads inside also strip easy, so be careful. I might have been more successful if I had tried while the engine was warm. I had to remove the plate to get better leverage, and I'm thinking about just leaving it off. For now I'm draining the oil by sucking it out through the fill hole with my "cheap bleeder", a vet syringe from Tractor Supply.
Also, when you say "oil filter" I think you mean "oil screen" the little upside down screen cup, just above the drain plug? reason I ask is on my LM200, I have a oil cooler with a real filter. Try gokartrus.com Here is what I think you are talking about:
14330 : SPRING, OIL FILTER SCREEN - 150CC $0.86
Retail Price: $1.04
Your Price: $0.86
You Save: $0.18 (17%)

American SportWorks (Manco) Part Number: 14330
American SportWorks (Manco) Part Description: SPRING, OIL FILTER SCREEN - 150CC
American SportWorks (Manco) Part Category: IMPORT KARTS
American SportWorks (Manco) Part Product Code: KRT-PARTS
American SportWorks (Manco) Part Sales Code: ENGINE PARTS
  #3  
Old 01-09-2012, 08:30 AM
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satoys satoys is offline
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found a picture below
http://www.*************/item/Oil-Scr...bly-04845-5562
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File Type: jpg 5562.jpg (94.2 KB, 3 views)
  #4  
Old 01-09-2012, 10:27 PM
shootistpd27 shootistpd27 is offline
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Should I replace the oil screen, or is washing it out ok? I really like your siphoning idea. I think that would be the least work......well?, not the least work but the easiest to clean up. But are you getting the oil screen clean when you do that? Or are you siphoning out the gas, and then removing the oil screen?
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Old 01-10-2012, 07:03 AM
joekd joekd is offline
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Siphoning is the best way to drain oil, I bought this cheap one form HF which I use on my karts, mowers and snowblower http://www.harborfreight.com/multi-u...ump-66418.html

All I did was replace the inlet hose with smaller fish tank size clear tubing so it easily fits in the oil dipstick or fill tube on all the motors

Couple pumps and the job is done, no mess at all
  #6  
Old 01-10-2012, 07:30 PM
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satoys satoys is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shootistpd27 View Post
Should I replace the oil screen, or is washing it out ok? I really like your siphoning idea. I think that would be the least work......well?, not the least work but the easiest to clean up. But are you getting the oil screen clean when you do that? Or are you siphoning out the gas, and then removing the oil screen?
I'm siphoning mainly until I get the drain plug replaced, but that could be a while. I'm assuming this older engine has had several oil changes before, so most of the metal chips from "new-ness" should already be gone. This is the way many boat motors get oil changes, but then they have filters, not the screen. On a new engine I would change it the "right" way, but then on a new engine I would not have a stripped drain plug !
  #7  
Old 01-11-2012, 01:31 AM
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SYCARMS SYCARMS is offline
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You will just clean the screen and reinstall. I would not use carb cleaner for it may eat up the rubber seal. Insteaf use some brake clean, it will not eat the rubber and evaporates quickly. There should be another 17mm bolt on the lower side of engine (cvt side) this is to drain the oil.

TOM
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Old 01-11-2012, 11:03 PM
shootistpd27 shootistpd27 is offline
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You guys are fantastic. Thanks for your help. I'm stuck at Fort Gordon for the week but as soon as I get home, I pray that my new ball joints, and spindles will be there and I will get that oil changed, crank her up, give her some gas..............and then decide what to do about the next thing that I can find wrong with her.
  #9  
Old 01-12-2012, 07:42 AM
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Our pleasure, thats what were here for.

TOM
 


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