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150cc GY6 and Under Engine Tech GY6 and Smaller Technical Discussion Forum |
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#1
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Just Bought a Raider 2 seater 150cc
I just bought this unit not running. Thought I would tinker with it a bit. Are there any engine upgrades/replacements I can put in to give it more power. It currently does not run, has not run in 3 years. I was told it was something electrical. As I am looking at this to figure out what is wrong, I thought about replacing the entire motor with something bigger. Does anyone know of any direct replacement 250cc or even larger motors that will "drop in" with out too many modifications?
Any other upgrades I can do to this existing engine that are worth while? Thanks for the help |
#2
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gonna assume it is a gy6 motor? first thing is getting a charge on the battery or a fresh one and see what it is doing or isn't doing to get an idea of the solution. pictures and more info may be needed. from what I know, whuch isn't much about swaps, I think the 150 frame may not handle a 250 engine, BUT I may be wrong
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a.k.a gndoc Vision Razor 2150R Proud Supporter of the 2nd Amendment Proud member of the Black River QC Team |
#3
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It will handle a 250 but with a whole new built carrier.
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#4
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Ah, thanks for the info. I guess I will get it running and then go from there. Looks like the motor was replaced once already. The oil cooler is not hooked up and I cannot see a place to hook it up. I have also been looking up performance stuff like CDI's and Carb etc. I will get it running and then go from there.
Thanks for all the help |
#5
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I am sorry, yes it is a GY6 Motor
Thanks |
#6
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Looking for parts sycarms is a top rate dealer.
Most of the time electrical problems start off with a loose connection just a plce to start. Some good places to start on mods after it is running. Air filter, pilot jet upgrade. Coil upgrade, spark plug.
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a.k.a gndoc Vision Razor 2150R Proud Supporter of the 2nd Amendment Proud member of the Black River QC Team |
#7
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i agree some times its just the simple things that keeps one from running.
i would check wire connections,grounds.key switchs go bad along with kill switchs. might have it up and running in no time |
#8
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Ok, So I installed a new CDI, shot the breather tube with ether and it fired right up. Now to pull the carb and clean it. It will run on ether so good. But if I pull the fuel line from the fuel filter, fuel does not run out of it. I would think it would. Is that the vacuum issue I have been reading about on here? I have a vacuum leak somewhere?
Thanks again |
#9
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There are 2 type of valves used,on the tank, one is just the normal petcock with an on/off lever. The other is a vacume operated pump. If that is what you have then you will pull the line feeding the carb then turn engine over. It should spit fuel from the line as engine turns over. If not then pump is defective. If fuel runs from line when engine is sitting still pump is bad as well.Everytime the piston moves down vacume sucks the diaphram down and allows fuel to enter pump chamber, as the vacume subsides a return spring will push the diaphram up forcing fuel through fuel line. Also there is a screen in the tank which will sometimes get obstructed from sediment. You can also pull the vacume line and apply suction to it and fuel should flow.
TOM |
#10
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Alright, I got the fuel flowing and rebuilt the carburetor. Started it and it ran pretty good. After running it around the yard for a while it was running even better. Pulled in to check some things out and now it will not start. It will not crank and the lights will not even come on. I can jump the solenoid and it will crank so I know the battery is good. I just downloaded a wiring diagram so hopefully, I will have this figured out soon.
Thanks for all the help. Mark |
#11
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Well since it works from the soleniod you know it's before it in the electrical path - push button if it has one, brake safety switch if it has one, kill switch if it has one and the ignition switch if it has one- could always be a bad connection on anyone of these
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#12
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Yea, since there are no lights or anything I am thinking ignition switch or wires feeding it. There are 5 wires on the ignition switch. One should be hot all the time. I briefly checked and I do not believe I was getting any power to the ignition.
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#13
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Is there a main fuse? most of the time there are two wires leaving the battery- one heavy gauge going to the soleniod and a thinner one going into a fuse box or holder. Check the fuse.
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#14
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Yea, I checked that fuse with an OHM Meter. It tested fine. Now for the next step. I guess I will pull every connection and clean it. Couldn't hurt anyway.
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#15
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Check your ground wires.
TOM Last edited by SYCARMS; 01-14-2012 at 10:19 PM. Reason: misquote |
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