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  #1  
Old 06-27-2011, 09:31 PM
bwomack524 bwomack524 is offline
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Question upgrading my spiderbox 3206

I'm needing help figuring out how to up grade my suspension. My kart is running great, but the suspension is somewhat lacking, please help
  #2  
Old 06-27-2011, 11:55 PM
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Start by looking thru posts that say Spiderbox-What type of terrain? do you putt-putt or drive all out?
  #3  
Old 06-28-2011, 09:43 AM
bwomack524 bwomack524 is offline
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I like getting it. and the trails are like some motocross and through trees and a creek. I bottomed out a couple of times
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Old 06-30-2011, 11:21 PM
jetboy300 jetboy300 is offline
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Default Spiderbox Suspension

Buy some Yamaha Blaster shocks on EBay. I just bought two sets for $15 a set. Put them on the rear and put the rear shocks on the front. The shocks on the Spiderbox are not shocks they are just spring holders. This is what I have heard on various forums. I'm currently working on adapter brackets to bolt them on the front. The only problem with the Blaster shocks is you have to grind or file down the width of the mount as they will not fit right into the frame brackets. Let me know if I can be of any help.

Last edited by jetboy300; 07-02-2011 at 11:13 PM.
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Old 07-01-2011, 09:42 AM
bwomack524 bwomack524 is offline
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Thanks and what is the lenght of these. I had thought about that and was wondering if the rear would work on the front. I also was thinking of maybe putting my stock rear tires 20x10x8 on the front and alittle bit taller on rear.
  #6  
Old 07-02-2011, 11:08 PM
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Default Front Suspension

The fronts are 9 inch and the rear are 12 inch. You have to have at least a 3 inch offset on the front rims. The bolt pattern on the back is 110 mm. Have you changed to hubs on the front? I think the blaster shocks are 13 inch eye to eye if not a little more. I will have to measure when I get home from vacation.

Last edited by jetboy300; 07-02-2011 at 11:11 PM.
  #7  
Old 07-02-2011, 11:50 PM
bwomack524 bwomack524 is offline
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i know where i can get the stock tuff tires,rims and hubs for the rear of a 3206 fo 20 bucks apiece, so i'm thinking about getting them finding the 4/110mm hubs that will fit the front axle and us them, I then tought i would move my stock 11" shocks to the front and putting on some 14" at he rear. I was hoping this would work. Also while messing with it tonight it looks like you could turn the bottom A frame over and be able to put a little longer shock but I dont know if it would work
  #8  
Old 07-03-2011, 06:50 AM
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your cocept of using the rears on the front is a good idea except that the tire Tread/pattern won't hold in a turn. you will need a tire with a more agressive tread pattern. Scrap the tire and use a Kenda 248 20x7-8
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Old 07-03-2011, 11:35 AM
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your right but this way is in the budget and I can put kendra a little later and have spares for the rear later . I wish I could get on as a new parts tester for somebody
  #10  
Old 07-03-2011, 01:36 PM
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Default Front Tires

Check Craigslist.com for used ATV tires. I got a good used set for the front for $20. They where the 20x7x8. Northern tool has some for $40+ each. You can usually find good deals on EBay but the shipping cost kills the deal.
  #11  
Old 07-03-2011, 02:44 PM
bwomack524 bwomack524 is offline
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I'm watching craig's list for around here but nothing yet and your absolutely right shipping is as much as your item. Iguess that's where they make their money.
  #12  
Old 07-06-2011, 04:02 PM
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I drilled the 4/110 rims out to 4/100 and added heavy fender washers to make the rears fit. If you do not have the longer BD spindles, you will not fit the 4" inside offset on the the stock spindle.
  #13  
Old 01-22-2012, 10:14 PM
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When using the Blaster shocks on the rear, are you guys moving the mounting brackets?

The blaster shocks are 2" taller than stock and really raises the cage up, while the swing arm gets pushed down.

That makes the entire engine lean downward alot.

Is that going to cause me problems if the engine isn't level anymore?
  #14  
Old 01-23-2012, 09:48 AM
bwomack524 bwomack524 is offline
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I used 12" coil over oil shocks and didn't move my mounts. The engine didn't give me any problems. The only problem is when checking the engine oil. I also put the 12" shocks on front. My clearance now is about 13-14".
  #15  
Old 01-23-2012, 05:50 PM
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Did you use any relocation brackets to use 12" shocks up front?

You mention checking oil level issues.

I also read a post where your carb fuel float will be thrown off with the engie at such a sharp angle. Have you noticed any performance issues?

Do you use the stock carb? (might be more of an issue with a larger carb consuming more fuel faster)
  #16  
Old 01-24-2012, 10:20 AM
bwomack524 bwomack524 is offline
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No problem with my carb and on the front I didn't have to move anything but on my steering I had to put on some tie rod extension to try to keep the rack & pinion level with the kart frame. On my front I put on hubs and 20x9x8 tires and on the back I put on 22x11x8 and that really leveled out my kart. I haven't had time to try them out since I took it apart ( the new rear tires } and rebuilt it. Then I've gone to the dark side I bought a 04 yamaha raptor 660r and I'm dividing my time between the 2
  #17  
Old 01-24-2012, 06:15 PM
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Got any pics of it with the new tires and longer shocks? Thanks
  #18  
Old 01-24-2012, 10:35 PM
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here it is. still have to put back in the seats, hook up the battery box which has a 12v cig lighter for charging my phone and listening to my xm on my phone and its ready to rock and roll. You want to buy it?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg photo (8).jpg (40.2 KB, 47 views)
File Type: jpg photo (9).jpg (40.2 KB, 39 views)
  #19  
Old 01-24-2012, 11:30 PM
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Nah, got my own.....


Thanks for the pics.

Hard to believe those are 12" shocks up front. Are they 12" long overall? Or 12" center of bolt hole to center of bolt hole?

Doesn't look out of place considering they're much taller than normal. Hell, you didn't even flip the A arm over.
  #20  
Old 01-25-2012, 10:31 AM
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If the ball joints bind, they will not last long. Changing the angle of the tabs on the end of the a-arms will help.
  #21  
Old 01-25-2012, 11:40 AM
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These are 12" shocks (eye to eye) This is the mod needed that GX150 is referring to- The tabs need to be re-welded level with the ground to allow for proper travel, if they're left stock they'll bind and cause damage.
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File Type: jpg black Yerfdog 059.jpg (46.8 KB, 28 views)
File Type: jpg black Yerfdog 060.jpg (52.5 KB, 38 views)
  #22  
Old 01-25-2012, 07:22 PM
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Interesting......

You don't even use the tie rod stand offs (lifter blocks) with those 12" shocks.

You just flipped your mount. Buggy Depot includes relocation brackets to use 12.75" shocks with thier kit. And they put the shock eye closer to the spindle.

Funny how there's more than 1 way to skin a cat.


Now do you experience "bump steer"? I think that's what Ckau said would happen if you use shocks over 10" in length on these.


Thanks for the info guys, learning alot here.
  #23  
Old 01-25-2012, 08:07 PM
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No stand-off's because the rack-n-pinion is mounted down on the chassis for a better alignment/angle, travel & ease of wheel effort, I didn't flip anything- shock mount is stock location. The SC shocks it has now are 12-3/4" eye to eye without changing anything. No bump steer either even though it has a much greater turning radius by adding 2 grooves to the rack on each side.
The bump steer comes from poor ball joints, poor alignment, poor travel of the ball joints or Heims, poor alignment/angle of the steering arms. Tires can contribute to this too.
  #24  
Old 01-25-2012, 08:09 PM
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stock yerf shocks in the 3203s are 12 inches eye-to-eye. I thought they used the same on the 3206s?
  #25  
Old 01-25-2012, 08:13 PM
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stock Spiderbox shocks are 9-1/2"
 


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