|
|
|
#3
02-03-2012, 03:16 PM
|
||||
|
||||
Welcome
|
|
#6
02-03-2012, 07:37 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
it belonged to my dads neighbor kid. it has been ridden very little and never out side of his half acher back yard. I bought it for 150 bucks. it has sat for a couple of years. I drained the bowl and put fresh gas in it and finally got it started. It was trying to run at about half throttle on its on. I finally got it to settle down a little but it will not idle. I tried to take it for a spin around the back yard and the clutch seemed to only work at full throttle. when I would take off it smelled like i was burning the belt and it was slipping really bad. Im sure I need to get inside the clutch to clean it and get the mud dobber nests out but I know nothing about them. From the looks of it it looks like a golf cart type of cluth. The motor is a 6.5 with a manual choke not a pump bubble. So far that is all that I know about it. My boy had a chinese pace Three speed manual buggy but it has starting smoking and I have welded about every part on it at least two times. The thing is he isnt that rough on it. It is just so cheeply made. Any help or ideas for this cart would be a great help. I havent told him that I got it yet I wanted to get it running first. I have axcess to a complete machine and weld shop so mods shouldnt be a problem. The only problem is I dont know how to work on the carb.
Thanks Terry |
|
#7
02-03-2012, 08:11 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
the carb is pretty simple if it's the original. the bowl screw is also the jet, in addition to the primary orifices in the jet there is a very small diameter one that comes in on an angle near the top of the threads. make sure the jet and bowl are clean and carefully blast out all the other passages in the carb with the carb cleaner. also, the outermost of the two screws that hold the air cleaner also seals the primer passage, if it's missing or loose, it can cause issues with the primer bulb version--don't know if the smae is true with a manual choke. i seal the screw on mine with liquid teflon. the clutch/driven is a comet 30 series, (small version of a golf cart/ snowmobile) sounds like it's probably dirty, needing lube and the pulleys may need re-aligned along with a new belt. if you search "comet" on the forums here, you'll learn more than you need to know! lol. Hope this helps, Good luck
|
|
#8
02-04-2012, 12:19 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Honestly, if you're going to spend any $$$ on that engine, you might want to reconsider....
Those Tecumseh 6.5 HP sport engines have a pretty short service life. I want to say they are only rated for 150 hrs. That's terrible if you ask me!!! To get a new carb for mine (which I think it did need when I bought it) was going to be around $40 plus shipping. That's when I found the Harbor Freight coupon for a Honda clone 6.5 HP engine for $100. I installed that ($107 out the door) on the cart with only 1 issue. The new engine has a slightly shorter output shaft, so I made a spacer to take up the rest. Not a problem for you if you have access to a machine shop. It's a 2 pulls to start motor, has a low oil shut off sensor, and has more power than the Tecumseh of equal rating. Not to mention every aftermarket option available for it if you ever decide you need to go faster.  As for the Comet 30 Torque A Vertor (TAV for short) how rusty are the pulleys if it sat outside? Mine was rusty/pitted a little bit, and it chewed up my new belt pretty good. This will help explain how it works. http://www.*****************/tavapp.htm There is a bronze bushing that is on the smaller (driven pulley attached to engine) pulley that allows the belt to spin while in "neutral". If that bushing is frozen, I can see you smoking the belt in no time. Is the correct belt on it? Ity should be a Comet 203591 for around $20 http://www.ebay.com/itm/GO-KART-DRIV...item27bd1f0a20 Hope this helps |
|
#9
02-04-2012, 07:48 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Agree 200% with xlint89, go with the harbor freight.... they are "on-sale" for 99 about once a month, and sometimes the 20% off coupon works as well. I spent many hours on the techumseh, never got them to run perfect. The HF bolted right in, started first pull, works great. Leave the low oil sensor connected, some have removed it. I have found it is a great "roll over preventor" because as soon as the kids (or even me) get a little wild and a rear wheel goes airborne, it dies.
Clean the clutch (often !). Good link above, also look on youtube. I had a frozen bronze bushing, easy fix for ~2$, better than an expensive belt. Another good source for parts is ************* and - be ready, once you are hooked, you will be buying another ! |
|
#11
02-04-2012, 06:57 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
I pulled the carb off just now it it is horrable. All kinds of ugly stuff in there. Does that probably mean a new carb is in order or just a rebuild. Also the rubber gasket that is on top of the bowl fell apart. Is that something I can buy by itself? I guess all this should be in the kart section. Can the moderators change the location thanks.
|
|
#12
02-04-2012, 07:01 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
|
|
#13
02-04-2012, 07:37 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
|
|
#14
02-04-2012, 08:26 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Thanks everyone for your help. I pulled the clutches off this afternoon. I took the smaller one apart and cleaned it and lubed it. I havent taken the larger one apart yet.(I got to remember where my snap ring pliers are.) The part where the belt rides is a little rough so I think I will chuck them up in the lathe and clean them up with some sandpaper. They should look like new then. What does a clutch rebuild kit consist of? Also I need to replace the belt and spark plug. Any suggestions on what brand I should get. I hope I can get this thing going this week so I can suprise my boy with it next weekend.
Thanks again Terry |
|
#15
02-04-2012, 08:36 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Ditto on the above--and also search these forums as the 3203 is a common kart (i have 1) that many of us have fixed and modified and posted the pics and info here. (there's enough info in fact that us lowly yerf owners should have our own sub forum wink wink at BM .))))
Below is a link to a page that will give you an automatic download of a tecumseh factory carb ID and rebuild manual that includes a jet chart/part number listing. the carb you have is most likely a series 8. If you scroll down, the one you want is dated sept 2 2010 at 8:50 Click on that and once the download completes, open up "my documents" and go into the "downloads" folder to open it. There are a full tec series of factory manuals on that page for other aspects of servicing and rebuilding. http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/manual/ FWIW, Tecs get a bad rap that I'm in the tiny minority who feels it's unwarranted. While there aren't any real hi-po parts for this engine, its service life if treated decently, is pretty robust. As far as carb parts go, most of the primary gaskets interchange between the various different series. A rebuild kit should run you about 10-20 bucks shipped. The intake pipe between the carb and head can be ported with a dremel or grinding stone in a drill, tube headers are easy to fabricate and cheap to buy, as is a new carb intake air filter plate. Along with that, toss in a $4-6 adjustable needle assembly to replace the fixed jet/bowl screw and you've got a nicely hopped up Tec for all of 10 to 30 bucks. There are a couple guys who a few years back also did various "stage" performance kits including valve springs, cams etc, don't know if they're still around. if you want to go that route--more pricey ---search "Batman modifications" on the web and you'll find his site and contact info. or you could plunk down a Ben Franklin or more and bolt on a new clone mill ... Last edited by x-bird; 02-04-2012 at 08:43 PM. |
|
#16
02-04-2012, 08:52 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
If I can get it running good it will be for my ten year old son so speed is not that important. Not for me anyway? Im not asking him. I have read hear somewhere that some people place a smaller sprocket to give it more pulling power and less speed. I would consider doing that since we live in a hilly area.I just need to track down more information and where to get it.
Thanks |
|
#17
02-04-2012, 11:33 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Here's a link to your clutch,driven and belts- This tells/explains it !!! http://www.*****************/asymapp.htm
I too think the TEC motors are durable/solid power plants- I've had many a TEC outlast a clone and run well beyond the 500 hr. life span with only regular oil changes. When a TEC motor is running right they have plenty of torque, you're already on the winning side with the manual choke version carb for easier maintenance and starting ability. I know your son is only 10 and you want to keep the speed down at first- he will be looking for MORE very quickly if he has any common sense and motor skills. A test drive with you in the kart will give you the feel for torque and speed- Every kart is slightly different when it come to speed and torque. Tire size, sprocket size, body wieght all play an important role in how well it performs on your terrain. I suggest ************* for parts. |
|
#18
02-05-2012, 02:53 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Everyone has their experience and opinions it seems, but I was just making a suggestion that if he was going to spend $40 on a carb, might as well spend another $60 and get a brand new engine along with a new carb.
Now my Tec may have been near it's end of service life (and it's actually published in the serial number "break down" how long they are designed to last), even with port matching the carb/intake manifold and intake/head (which was pretty far off), I was only able to get 28 MPH out of the Yerf. Once I installed the HF "clone" engine, I was doing 31.5 MPH right out of the crate. No mods whatsoever. Not looking for arguement, just posting my personal results. Terry, there are adjustments for the TAV spring that will keep the kart in "low" gear longer as well as an optional stiffer spring. Those should help with hills a little bit better. Or there is a 9 tooth sprocket that can be bought to change your final gear ratio as you already read about. This link should help guide you. http://www.key-ideas.com/TC-Sprocket-Change.htm |
|
#19
02-05-2012, 03:08 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
I doubt you offended anyone!!! The clone is a killer deal for getting everything brand new and they're good motors.You can't touch a TEC engine for that price.We were just trying to let him know it's worth messing with (cleaning the carb) to see if it'll run.
|
|
#20
02-05-2012, 07:23 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
thanks everyone.Yall have been so helpfull. I hope to get the carb back on this week and see if it will run. Can someone give me the correct sparkplug number for this motor? Also where should I order the belt from?
Thanks again. |
|
#22
02-06-2012, 01:13 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
This should be the link to the manual, my 6.5 is OHH65. http://www.tecumsehpower.com/Custome...uals/index.php
I get a .pdf that covers 5.0 to 6.5 hp Also look at this manual - http://www.yerf-dog.com/manuals/3203A_T.pdf and then look here http://www.yerf-dog.com/service.gokart.html it shows an RN4C xlint89 - I still agree with you !  I had (2) 6.0 and (2) 6.5 Techumseh off various karts I bought (all in bad shape) and could only get 1 to barely run, after many, many hours. I did the carb clean/ new gaskets, etc., but I'm not good with engines. I finally took one to my local small engine shop, and 120$ later it ran ok, and I have no clue what he did. For those of us that are missing the engine gene, the HF $99 is the best way to go. (especially in my case with 2 grandsons saying "when papa? when papa ? ) I am happy to report that I just got my trashed out GY6 to run ! WOOOHOOO ! Maybe my small engine gene just needed keep reading this forum till I got all the wires right ! |
|
|
