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  #1  
Old 04-05-2012, 08:53 PM
zzbudzz zzbudzz is offline
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Default Broken left side crankcase on carter 150

I'm so pissed! I've had so many problems with my buggy (maxxum carter 150), I seem to work on it more than anything I have ever owned! My belt broke so I took off the cvt cover and CANNOT get the bolt off the clutch. I used an impact wrench still nothing. Then I noticed the crankcase behind the clutch is broken! Completely broken in half! I just got the motor out thinking I can replace the crankcase but I still can't get the clutch and bell housing off or the variator! WTH? Now I'm screwed I guess it looks like I have to buy a whole new motor because even if i get the stuff off, it looks like this is beyond my abililty and patience right now! What the hell do I do now just buy another motor? The motor did run pretty well when it did run!
  #2  
Old 04-05-2012, 10:39 PM
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Take the motor to a shop and see if they can get the nuts off for you, maybe your impact wrench just isn't strong enough.

Now, is it the gear cover that is broken or is it part of the actual case of the engine?

Also what engine is it the 4 bolt valve cover or the 2 bolt one? I have a spare of each one laying on my shelf.
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Yerfdog Spiderbox, Uni Type air filter with 6" intake, 130 jet, Orange no-rev limit cdi, Red coil, iridium plug, 1500rpm clutch springs, 1500rpm contra spring, 13g sliders, 22" rears, 21" fronts, aftermarket reverse installed, and Trailtech Vapor.
  #3  
Old 04-05-2012, 11:07 PM
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Unhappy

I just talked to a buddy of mine who has stronger impact wrench , He believes he can get the nut off. Yes the case broke about 2 to 3 inches in front of the clutch shaft right at the thinnest part. The Same buddy of mine said he could weld it. I don't know if I Broke it today or it broke awhile back but the break looks pretty clean and new.? :-( I think its a 2 bolt ..can't remember and ..its late and I'm beat . I'll check it in the morning. Funny I started this late after my other projects ,thinking this would be a easy fix...hahahaha hours later and the mottor on my work bench in 2 large pieces.
  #4  
Old 04-05-2012, 11:44 PM
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up some pics if you get a chance...
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T.J.
Yerfdog Spiderbox, Uni Type air filter with 6" intake, 130 jet, Orange no-rev limit cdi, Red coil, iridium plug, 1500rpm clutch springs, 1500rpm contra spring, 13g sliders, 22" rears, 21" fronts, aftermarket reverse installed, and Trailtech Vapor.
  #5  
Old 04-06-2012, 05:03 AM
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Old 04-06-2012, 05:06 AM
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  #7  
Old 04-06-2012, 05:09 AM
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sorry for the double post ..Had to remember how to post pictures on a forum :-) Now looking at this I'm not to sure this can be welded back together?
  #8  
Old 04-06-2012, 06:05 AM
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Always worth a shot if you're getting it done by a friend for trade or as a favor. otherwise, to take it to a professional weld shop to be tigged would likely cost nearly as much as a new one. I'd look at the break for duller looking areas. It may have had a crack started for awhile and the impact gun might've finished the "job". Also looks like it may have been caused by the single rear tensioner/mount issue if you do some jumping/rough riding.
  #9  
Old 04-06-2012, 06:36 AM
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Yeah, we have drove it like it we stole it!! I guess this is what I get in return. If he can't weld it ..I guess I'll buy a whole new motor from somewhere but I'll get him to look at it first. One question how do you suppose to take the motor out the buggy when its in one piece? Do you have to remove the axle? I also noticeed my the motor frame is cracked in the back. I wish I had the know how and tools to put a different motor in it.
  #10  
Old 04-06-2012, 02:47 PM
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IMO- welding this would be stretching out the inevitable. Even with what appears to be a clean break I'd be worried about pulley alignment. Most of these engines can be removed without removing the axle pretty easily. Chances are if you found one crack in the engine cradle there will be others- a break in the engine supports of the swingarm probably caused a small fracture in the case that led to your case breakage. I've bought several engines pretty cheap ($50.) off Craigslist, scooter motors fit the same but usually have the longer shaft. You're too many miles away to come pick up one of my used engines unless you travel this direction regularly and I have no interest in shipping one.
I understand your frustration- Learning how to dis-assemble and re-assemble is a must if you want to keep a buggy running!!! Take this opportunity to learn and get the skills needed. Take pic's of the parts prior to removal to aid in re-assembly (you have us to help if you get stuck). If you removed the swingarm, axle & other small parts you could take it to get it welded pretty cheap.
  #11  
Old 04-06-2012, 05:56 PM
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as far as complete engine removal, on the yerf subframe, i've been doing it as follows-- don't know if it will work for you

1. buggy on stands under the rear part of the frame. Disconnect all electric and fuel connections.

2. Disconnect shocks and swingarm bolts, roll it back and set stands or blocks under the reverse unit and front crossmember of the swingarm.

3. Unbolt the reverse lever or pop the cable off the handle.

4. Remove the tension nut. Drop engine tail down onto the stand, then pop the chain off the lower, remove the engine brace from the reverse unit.

5. Work the chain over the reverse unit and feed the cable/handle through it. chain stays on the axle intact and the reverse cable doesn't have to come out of the unit. You may have to loosen the cable elbow on the reverse unit and pivot it.


6 put a blanket or folded up towel in front of the swing-arm, rotate until the swingarm mounts are on the ground and remove the main engine through bolt/nut and take away the rear jackstand.

7. rotate and roll the swingarm back while working the engine out of it. Done.

Last edited by x-bird; 04-06-2012 at 06:12 PM.
  #12  
Old 04-07-2012, 08:23 PM
zzbudzz zzbudzz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by metalstudman1 View Post
IMO- welding this would be stretching out the inevitable. Even with what appears to be a clean break I'd be worried about pulley alignment. Most of these engines can be removed without removing the axle pretty easily. Chances are if you found one crack in the engine cradle there will be others- a break in the engine supports of the swingarm probably caused a small fracture in the case that led to your case breakage. I've bought several engines pretty cheap ($50.) off Craigslist, scooter motors fit the same but usually have the longer shaft. You're too many miles away to come pick up one of my used engines unless you travel this direction regularly and I have no interest in shipping one.
I understand your frustration- Learning how to dis-assemble and re-assemble is a must if you want to keep a buggy running!!! Take this opportunity to learn and get the skills needed. Take pic's of the parts prior to removal to aid in re-assembly (you have us to help if you get stuck). If you removed the swingarm, axle & other small parts you for a engcould take it to get it welded pretty cheap.
Yes ,I kinda figured it would crack again after I thought about it. I'll keep an eye out for a engine. I wish I had the ability to put a larger engine in it. Thanks for all your help!

Last edited by zzbudzz; 04-07-2012 at 10:03 PM.
  #13  
Old 04-07-2012, 10:05 PM
zzbudzz zzbudzz is offline
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I'm looking for a gy6 motor,the motor I need is the long case ,right?

Last edited by zzbudzz; 04-07-2012 at 10:10 PM.
  #14  
Old 04-07-2012, 10:09 PM
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T3beatz T3beatz is offline
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No, short case.
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T.J.
Yerfdog Spiderbox, Uni Type air filter with 6" intake, 130 jet, Orange no-rev limit cdi, Red coil, iridium plug, 1500rpm clutch springs, 1500rpm contra spring, 13g sliders, 22" rears, 21" fronts, aftermarket reverse installed, and Trailtech Vapor.
  #15  
Old 04-07-2012, 10:15 PM
zzbudzz zzbudzz is offline
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oh ..thanks. That would have been a big screw up! So, the longcases are for
scooters only?
  #16  
Old 04-07-2012, 10:19 PM
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pretty much, if you have fab skills you can get them to work for buggies, but for the most part they are for scooters, so they can run bigger wheels.
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T.J.
Yerfdog Spiderbox, Uni Type air filter with 6" intake, 130 jet, Orange no-rev limit cdi, Red coil, iridium plug, 1500rpm clutch springs, 1500rpm contra spring, 13g sliders, 22" rears, 21" fronts, aftermarket reverse installed, and Trailtech Vapor.
 


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