BuggyMasters.Com - An On Line Mini Buggy Forum and Go Kart Forum

Go Back   BuggyMasters.Com - An On Line Mini Buggy Forum and Go Kart Forum > Technical Discussions > FrankenBuggy Tech

FrankenBuggy Tech Unconventional and Home Built Buggy Tech Forum

 
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old 09-25-2012, 06:18 PM
ckau's Avatar
ckau ckau is offline
Heavy Contributor
 

Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: central North Carolina
Posts: 915
Default Swing arm heim conversion

Takijg X-bird’s idea of the swing arm heim conversion, I fabbed the following. The main difference between his and mine is that I did not want to increase the wheelbase. If anything, a slight decrease would be a plus for me.
First I got some rectangular bar stock 1-3/8 wide x 1” thick x 3” long. Standard width for the bar stock is 1-½ wide so you got to shave a 1/8 off one side in order for the bar to slip into the rectangular swing arm frame. I used a 5/8 heim so a 5/8 x18 hole was drilled and tapped in the bar stock located to place the heim centered in the original bushing tube location.
The swing arm was cut using a 4”cut off to remove the bushing mount and slicing the tubes to receive the bar stock. The tab that’s folded back gets folded back up and welded in place after the bar is securely in position. Because there’s not much area to weld in the bars as the bars were 2/3rds in the frame , holes were drilled for welding spots.
Tap the bars into the frame ,get the heim holes centered and weld it up! That’s it! Clean up the loose welding slag and your done.
Wheel base remained the same. Heims gave a smoother /tighter pivot. Adjustability to square the wheelbase and the ability to give some side to side offset by using different length spacers in the frame hanger. I may play with this side to side thing to see if it effects roll center whenever it finally gets on the scales. Replacing heims are a quick easy and cheap fix should something go wrong and because the bar stock internally bridges the original but joint in the frame some major strength has been added.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 141.jpg (90.3 KB, 82 views)
File Type: jpg 142.jpg (82.5 KB, 74 views)
File Type: jpg 145.jpg (86.1 KB, 82 views)
File Type: jpg 147.jpg (95.7 KB, 81 views)
File Type: jpg 149.jpg (84.1 KB, 86 views)
File Type: jpg 156.jpg (91.0 KB, 92 views)
  #2  
Old 09-25-2012, 07:10 PM
x-bird's Avatar
x-bird x-bird is offline
Power User
 

Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Penciltucky
Posts: 2,518
Default

Looks good, i like the "from the side" approach you took. Didn't even think of going that way. Fun putting a big lug of solid stock in there, isn't it? "man, this thing keeps getting heavier ... " LOL
  #3  
Old 09-26-2012, 02:27 AM
T3beatz's Avatar
T3beatz T3beatz is offline
Heavy Contributor
 

Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 650
Default

What made you go this route instead of just sticking a Bung in there?
__________________
T.J.
Yerfdog Spiderbox, Uni Type air filter with 6" intake, 130 jet, Orange no-rev limit cdi, Red coil, iridium plug, 1500rpm clutch springs, 1500rpm contra spring, 13g sliders, 22" rears, 21" fronts, aftermarket reverse installed, and Trailtech Vapor.
  #4  
Old 09-26-2012, 07:25 AM
x-bird's Avatar
x-bird x-bird is offline
Power User
 

Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Penciltucky
Posts: 2,518
Default

the way the frame side tubes angle off combined with the tubing dimensions in relation to a regular round bung makes it difficult to set and weld in place. A lot of air space around the bung and you have to set it crooked in relation to the tube to make it parallel with the mount. Each side is also on a different angle to add to the fun. Ckau's method is pretty sweet--definitely easier than what i did. (I just had my materials at no cost) Ideal for a stock or shorter length wheelbase. If you wanted to go longer, you could still do the same and bore the bar stock and insert the bung partially into it and gusset it.
  #5  
Old 09-26-2012, 11:34 AM
rich1 rich1 is offline
Contributor
 

Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 184
Default

This seems like a good idea...but...The problem i see with a heim joint is side to side stress. On a motorcycle ,the swingarm uses a normal pressed in bushing.There is more area with a bushing to absorb the abuse . There is also less weight, but a buggy has the motor/ trans ,reverse mounted to the swing arm. But the real reason they are not used is dirt, the low mounting position leaves it exposed to everything.The good thing is it will be easy to replace. However if you can cover it with a simple rubber boot that will help protect it .

Last edited by rich1; 09-26-2012 at 12:22 PM.
  #6  
Old 09-26-2012, 06:42 PM
ckau's Avatar
ckau ckau is offline
Heavy Contributor
 

Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: central North Carolina
Posts: 915
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rich1 View Post
This seems like a good idea...but...The problem i see with a heim joint is side to side stress.
Yea I have the same concern, The heims I chose were designed for the panhard rods in rock crawlers. and rated at a static radial load of 31,390 lbs. if I can bend one of these I'd be proud of myself!!! I'm willing to bet the frame brackets tear out first. The bottom line is .. it's a experiment. if it works .... Great! If not? back to the drawing board.
  #7  
Old 09-26-2012, 07:16 PM
rich1 rich1 is offline
Contributor
 

Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 184
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ckau View Post
Yea I have the same concern, The heims I chose were designed for the panhard rods in rock crawlers. and rated at a static radial load of 31,390 lbs. if I can bend one of these I'd be proud of myself!!! I'm willing to bet the frame brackets tear out first. The bottom line is .. it's a experiment. if it works .... Great! If not? back to the drawing board.
The panhard rod I installed on my Mustang uses the same heim joint. The job of the rod is to keep the axle centered under the body of the car.It is mounted horizontally so no side loading is used just L to R
The upper and lower control arms take the brunt of the body and drivetrain loading .
I did not say it would not work its just not designed for that purpose.There is very little water /dirt / mud protection either.It will be easy to replace them as you stated so dont get you drawers in a wad!

Last edited by rich1; 09-26-2012 at 08:40 PM.
  #8  
Old 10-07-2012, 02:48 PM
jmansracerocket's Avatar
jmansracerocket jmansracerocket is offline
Senior Member
 

Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: ny, long island
Posts: 1,342
Default

nice job!!
 


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:39 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.3
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.