#101
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I cut a floor flange in half and grinded it to fit around the axle and drilled the bolt holes out to use as a shim. the sprokets dont line up from the factory. Then I had to get a half link to shorten the chain (520 chain I think) after I did that I havent had a problem. The tensioner bolts on the stud on the bearing housing and the chain rides between the 2 rollers.
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#102
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Should the chain be riding on the nylon rollers? And where do the ends of the tensioner spring anchor? Thanks for the help.
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#103
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This should help.
http://www.yerf-dog.com/manuals/34900_H.pdf |
#104
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I see the pic. But I do not see the spring tensioner or I can not make it out.
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#105
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I dont have the spring on mine and it has been working fine
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#106
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Does your chain eat up the nylon rollers? Do you have a pic of how you shimmed the sprocket? I hate to be a hassle but you are the only person I have found that has come up with a solution. Everyone else has seemed to just junked theirs and gave up. I am about there, but this buggie could be so useful if I could just keep the chain on. If you are standing in the rear of cart, my chain bends the roller arm bracket towards the left rear tire, to the point that on the original arm it has cut into the bracket itself.
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#107
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Is it possible your chain length is off resulting in the tensioner issues?
The idea of the dual roller tensioner is to pick up the chain slack on the non driven side, not to tighten the tension on the pull side of the sprocket. |
#108
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Quote:
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#109
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I bought the chain from BMI karts. I took out one link trying to reach the 1/8" slack that the manual said it needed. My nylon rollers were adjusted to the end most point of each arm of the bracket. I have heard I do not need the tensioner spring. If I do I have only found one way for it to go.
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