#1
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Noob!
Hello all. My name is Mike, I live in northest Florida, and I just purchased a well used Yerf Dog 3209. I am a Master Toyota tech, if the username didn't give that away. My Yerf came to me with broken exhaust, siezed carb internals, and of course a broken ball joint. I have the HD joint kit arriving in the mail today, and am currntly reinforcing the spindles as we speak, I have the thirg gen spindles, which is relieving, but still going the safe route. I look forward to speaking with you all, as I have some concerns about CVT's, mainly cause I'm a clutch and gearbox kinda guy, lol.
Last edited by Masteryota; 12-10-2012 at 10:09 AM. Reason: spelling, it was offensive the other way, lmao |
#2
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Welcome to the forum mike, sounds like ur off to a good start & most of ur repairs are fairly easy ones! if u do need parts or advice check with tom @ sycpowersports, he's the man!
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#3
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Welded the exhaust back together, and cleaned the carb out, carb still giving me trouble though. It sneezes every now and then through the intake hose(custom open air filter), think the air mix screw was missing an o-ring, will try again this afternoon.
What do you all think of the orange box CDI unit and coil kit? I have heard ups and downs to both of them, I want more pep, but not at the sacrifice of something else. I'm a big dude(~300 lbs), and I like low end grunt, so with that, anyone have recommendations for the CVT? I will be keeping the stock size tires front and rear for now, and above mentioned hop ups are possible. |
#4
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Welcome. Check these out.
Here's all the stuff I've done to my 3206 http://buggymasters.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2601 And here's a list of the mods I dd and the improvements they made in post #11. http://buggymasters.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2670 |
#5
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My suggestions for you are based on FLA being very flat. Are you going to be attempting any hill climbing?
1. buy a new carb They're like $30 for a new one off Ebay 2. Buy a new intake manifold, The rubber cracks and causes an air leak. Around $15 for stock type or $30 for performance. 3. UNI air filter and eliminate the OEM around $20 4. Install the "red neck" air intake tube $5 5. Rejet carb Try a 125 main jet $5 6. open up the stock muffler by removing the small 1/2" tail piece. FREE 7. Don't buy the cheap CDI and coil. Get the NCY orange (aluminum housing) CDI $40 8. Get a good coil like the Bando $30 9. Clean the CVT FREE 10. Install Dr Pulley 12 gram sliders $30 11. Deglaze the clutch bell and clutch pads with sandpaper FREE 12. Port match your instake manifold to cyl head. FREE 13. Port or at least "clean up" the cyl head FREE to ???? OPTIONS: If you can find a FMF muffler (12" or longer) that fits the stock head pipe for cheap, get one. They really do help performance. $30ish??? If your compression is low, install a Big Bore Kit. A 58.5mm or 59mm will drop right in. A 61, 62 or 63mm will require case boring. $70-200 These are just performance upgrades to improve the speed and accel of the Yerf, but they have some chassis issues that need to be addressed as well. Front ends, ball joints, motor mounts, spindles, and steering rack. This should give you some home work to do. And Tom at Syc Powersports is a great person to deal with. Last edited by xlint89; 12-10-2012 at 10:53 PM. |
#6
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I don't forsee any hill climbing in my my future, but I don't want to have to run away from them either. I was looking at the 9 gram weights and a 1500 spring to start for the CVT. Already eliminated stock airbox and replaced with 8-9" piece of rad. hose and home made cotton airfilter sprayed with left over K/N oil. Thought about the exhaust, but since I live in a development, I wanted to keep the noise down a bit, may still take the itty bitty tail pipe out though.
I was hoping not to get into the engine too much with the timing chain and all, if I go that far, I might start looking at 125-250cc quad engines to swap in, then I would have my gearbox and likely reverse also. |
#7
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9 gram is way too light. Stock came with 14 grams. Get the 12 gram sliders, or stay with the stock 14g rollers IMO.
Rip out the tail piece. It doesn't add that much more noise, but you will notice the boost. |
#8
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Before I get into the engine and CVT, I have some work to do on the front end. I installed the new BD HD balljoints last night, and I realized what everyone was talking about with the tie rods not matching the control arm angle, and I might need longer outer tie rod ends to accomodate the steering angles I want, perks and drawbacks to being a front end wizard, lol. What I'm ultimately looking for is how to drop the rack itself, seeing as it sits on an angled peice of steel right now, should I cut that out and fabb up a mount with slotted holes for fine tuning or additions later in life? I am also toying with the idea of extending the inner tie rod threaded sleeve about 3/4" longer to get some more toe in. I know the quick fix is to buy the stand off spacers from BD, but something makes me think those will only create another weak point in the steering system.
Last edited by Masteryota; 12-12-2012 at 10:34 AM. |
#9
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Welcome..
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