Suzuki 250 LT engine ... need some help

[x-bird]

So i've got this old beast from a mid-80s era quadrunner. Junkyard quad, chopped the front for the Sunl and am thinking about using the engine for the rockhound. Dug into it this morning. While i don't have a compression tester fitting that fits the plug (13mm thread i think) comp seems good. fiddled with the harness, which is mostly intact and took a 150 gy6 coil and gave it a pull.

I got one spark at the start of the first pull, then nothing.

Messed a round some more, hooked up a battery and got the starter to work

Can't get spark back though.

took the suzuki's plug and gy6 coil, plugged it into the rockhound and got good spark, so i know it didn't smoke the coil.

it looks like the suzuki has a "hardwired" cdi. the only leads out of the engine that i can find are blue wires coming off the back of the case, which i think are for speedo or tach.

This should have a stator and wires out of it for ignition, but i can't spot them, unless they are the blue leads.

If anyone has any experience with one of these old things, i'd appreciate any help on it.

[Masteryota]

Not too sure on the blue leads without a pic, might be the stator?? Are there any ID tags on the engine case, that might help track down a wiring diagram and for sure help with parts. In my experience with suzuki(mostly street bikes) they normally stick with a certain design for a long time. I don't see why they wouldn't do the same for quads. For what its worth, I posted a pic of a Wiring diagram, color codes might be different though if its a different year.

WOW, you can not read that once it's thumbnailed, lol.

[x-bird]

yeah, it's a little tough, but i can follow it. the blue wires out of the case have to be the stator/magneto. there's 3 coming out. was gone all day, just took a peek at it and the insulation on the wires is cracked right where they exit the solid material of the pickup "plug." Something tells me this thing should run, going to remove the plug, maybe it's just a broken wire. parts are really scarce for these things though ... and pricey for the few used ones that are floating around. Compression-wise it feels ok by the "finger on the hole" test. Other than the typical grime, it doesnt' look like this was a leaker and hte exhaust, while rusted out, is intact at the flange. plug end was dirty and kind of worn, but has strong spark. was hoping my brother had a compression tester fitting for it, but no such luck. as to id, the frame plate from what i recall id'd it as a 250 LTE, either 1984 or '85. the 250R is a bit of a different animal from what i remember. Amazingly it still had the clear plastic envelope with computer punch card wired to the back of the engine. all in one piece, but very faded.

[Masteryota]

Sounds like you are on the right track so far, its tough to check the stator without a decent multimeter. Be sure to add a ground wire from the coil to the battery, that might explain the single spark then nothing. If it were a CDI, I think you wouldn't get anything out of the coil, especially seeing as it is the sole supplier of voltage to the coil.

[x-bird]

would you believe i've got 3 multimeters ... and not one works! my "old reliable" one went dead on me since i last used it -- fuse is fine and new batteries--only gives me a continuity tone. (((( the other two are small pocket ones that need the watch size batteries and i couldn't get out to get any today. been thinking abotu the grounds. tried cranking it with the coil neg. side grounded on the frame along with the sparkplug with no luck. the harness/battery ground is still hooked to the frame. i'll try it direct though, as you never know with old rusty stuff like this. I also put an1156 lightbulb across the wires feeding the coil and got zip.

[x-bird]

found the pick-up wires, basically right in front of me, a green and an orange with a blue coming off a pickup that i think is a neutral safety switch. that item is a plastic oval with a ball-ended wire that rests on one of the transmissions shafts, which also has a spring loaded ball. cycled the gears and it only cranks in neutral, so that's also functional.

the blues must be speedo or tach as they come off the back of the trans area.

at the rear of the harness i have a mystery 4-pin plug (3 yellows and a red), a black/white wire with straight push round terminal end and a white plastic "plate" above the brake light that has a red and black separated by a 10A fuse on one side and two phillips screws that look like they'd take "U" terminal wires on the other. There's nothing to plug these loose ends into, but they all show wear as having been plugged into something at some point.

also ran a direct ground from the battery to the coil and no change.

[Masteryota]

Without jumping into an ATV forum, I can only guess, but that almost sounds like the CDI box(4 pin plug) with 3 like colored wires. Can you trace the wires to the other ends? I'm curious if they are from the stator, as they normally use similar colored wires from the magnets.

[x-bird]

i've been on atvconnection.com and elsewhere doing some digging. looks like the rectifier is MIA as well as a keyswitch might be a kill circuit complete along with the lack of the other items. Getting the feeling that i could toss a couple hundred into this thing real fast just to get it going.

[Masteryota]

Originally Posted by x-bird

i've been on atvconnection.com and elsewhere doing some digging. looks like the rectifier is MIA as well as a keyswitch might be a kill circuit complete along with the lack of the other items. Getting the feeling that i could toss a couple hundred into this thing real fast just to get it going.

Could you use a different rectifier? I know the 4 wire rectifier for my outboard cost a whopping $10 new in box. IRRC, it was a 25A unit. There are alot people using universal rectifiers/regulators in the outboard scene as the old factory stuff can't regulate effectively enough for newer electronics.

[Masteryota]

Looked on my local scrapyard site, and they have a regulator listed, but it appears to have a 6 pin plug

Here is the link:
http://cyclenetparts.com/listing.php?pid=19676

[x-bird]

thanks for the link and help. what's shown as a quadrunner is either a quadracer or quadsport (shaft drive). I tore a lot of this quad down about a year ago. since then it's been moved around my scrap pile a few times and had various pieces removed. last night i found a 4-pin regulator in one of my "bits" piles that matches the plug exactly --fit right in, including some tiny step notches, but it's way smaller than anything i've seen in pictures of complete quadrunners. No change with it installed. the one you show while 6 pin, also has the same color wires (except the orange/black) and includes the black/white wire that i still have as a floater with a straight round push-in end. while the harness looks original. I'm wondering if it was altered. I also don't think this had a key switch. only spare wires up front is a single pin block that i'm pretty sure is for the headlight. i've also read some threads that make me wonder if the light circuit being open might affect it.

[Masteryota]

Originally Posted by x-bird

thanks for the link and help. what's shown as a quadrunner is either a quadracer or quadsport (shaft drive). I tore a lot of this quad down about a year ago. since then it's been moved around my scrap pile a few times and had various pieces removed. last night i found a 4-pin regulator in one of my "bits" piles that matches the plug exactly --fit right in, including some tiny step notches, but it's way smaller than anything i've seen in pictures of complete quadrunners. No change with it installed. the one you show while 6 pin, also has the same color wires (except the orange/black) and includes the black/white wire that i still have as a floater with a straight round push-in end. while the harness looks original. I'm wondering if it was altered. I also don't think this had a key switch. only spare wires up front is a single pin block that i'm pretty sure is for the headlight. i've also read some threads that make me wonder if the light circuit being open might affect it.

Wow, how did I miss that? I should have known since this particular engine is regarded as a good donor for our buggies(chain drive).

Edit: When I went to the local scrapyard today, they had an intact running QuadRUNNER there, and it had the long case with the u-joints coming out of the sides, it appeared to be a mid-late 80's model too. I don't know if they changed the design somewhere in those few years, but I made it a point to inspect and verify it was a runner.

[MASTERBATES]

i have an 87 quadrunner, its out in the back of the woods. its the 2wd rear cv shaft independent setup. if u need me to look at any thing on it hit me up. the reason i scrapped it was the botttom end i believe has a bent shifter fork, and dont even want to begin pondering the disassembly of all those gears. since its a long case.

[x-bird]

back at it again;
managed to get the side cover off to visually inspect the stator. (nothing like the good old indian rope trick) all appeared fine and checked it with a multimeter today.

stator coil is not shorted. getting about 5 ohms between the 3 yellow leads off the coils.

I'm thinking the pickup/trigger coil is bad. it has continuity between ground and the magnet and ground and the notch on the edge of it. When i unscrewed it, it looked like there was a piece of a small metal tab that went from the exposed notch around the bottom edge. There is no continuity between the notch and the green or orange coil wires and no continuity between the magnet and the green or orange coil wires.

Do the stator resistance values sound correct? I have no manual or specs.

Should the magnet have continuity between it and the orange wire (what i'm assuming)?

can the trigger coil be replaced by itself or is it only available with the complete stator assembly?

Masterbates; any chance if i end up needing parts that you'd be willing to sell any off it? It'd likely be the coil and stator assy. flywheel bolt's a tough nut, gotta have an impact or really big breaker bar to get that puppy loose.