Electrical problem need help

[2SlickNick]

This is what happened. I was jump starting my buggy ( from my truck) to lawn and tractor battery in my buggy) and it was turning over but not firing. I realized it didn't have gas in it
Put in gas tried to jump start it again and ......Nothing.
Nothing at all. Dash didn't light up, starter didn't turn, nothing......
Could I have ruined something? If so what?

http://www.amsportworks.com/pdfs/LUT...al-14589R4.pdf
I have this for reference but still having trouble grasping it. (electrical is around page 66)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BSZ3t_oibeA
I watched and tried this but I don't have digital multimeter and my buggy is DC powered.

I did have continuity in battery, in solenoid/starter relay. Took off cdi and regulator and they appear fine.
I did ground multimeter to frame and then checked continuity ( with key switch on) from all the female ends that come from regulator/rectifer, and CDI. There was continuity.
However when using my multimeter on either AC or DC setting it didnt do anything. like in vid his read x amount of ohms. weird.
Electrical and I don't get along
Any help would be appreciated guys

[2SlickNick]

I even have continuity in coil wire too.

[Masteryota]

Ok, first thing you need to check is the battery. Some smaller batteries will burn an open inside if too much power is running into it, a kind of failsafe instead of blowing up. If you have over 10v from the battery, it should be ok. Make sure the terminals are connected well, and also check the jumper cable connections. Next, look for any and all fuses, and check them both visually, and for continuity. I have seen countless glass tube fuses blow at the very ends where you can not see the filament. While doing this, trace all the wiring by sight and touch and look for burned areas or spots with hard insulation.

I have to ask, was the truck running when you jump started it? It is never a good idea to use a large battery to jump a smaller system, due to the difference in being able to handle the increased amperage from the larger system. I hope for your sake, the battery bought the farm, but report back with your findings.

[Johnny 5]

My wife's blue 2004 dune 150 has a brake pressure switch that I have to jump with a screw driver to start if it has been sitting for a while.
You turn the key and push the brake and nothing until I jump the brake safety switch and then it will start. Once it starts it is good until we store it for a couple of months and I have to jump the switch again.

[x-bird]

some meters will require that you move the positive test lead to another input port to test for resistance.

first thing to do is check you're inline fuse on your main power wire to the system. I'm betting--and hoping for your sake --that all you did was blow the fuse.

[2SlickNick]

I do the fuse is intact and also has continuity.
Also I did have my truck engine running
I will check the other stuff on my day off. Thanks for the replies. I might just order Cdi and regulator and see what happens.

[2SlickNick]

Just double checked. Fuse is intact and has continuity.
Took out ignition switch and that is good.

Also tried to jump started relay/solenoid and it did nothing ( it has continuity ). also from what I was reading if you jump relay and it turns over, then relay solenoid are bad....

Tried to jump brake switch nothing.

Like stated earlier I did have continuity from all wires leading away or wires plugging into regulator and CDI.

Question:
Since I know ignition switch is good. And when I turn key dash does not light up, nor engine turn over mayb e it could be regulator?? CDI controls timing and spark so even if cdi was junk I would still think dash would light up. right??

Regulator does seem to control lights and goes to starter so maybe that right?
Also stator is only for a running engine right?

[351mustanger]

Are you getting voltage (not continuity) to the large posts of the starter solenoid? You should have voltage at one side, and then when you turn the key to start the engine, the other post should then get voltage too. Check from the positive post of the battery and the ground wire bolted to the cvt cover to make sure you are getting a good ground.

[2SlickNick]

351 I made a break through it may very well be a grounding problem somewhere somehow.
When I ground the multimeter to frame of buggy, then touch other lead to negative post of battery the dash lights come on.
Guess I will look for a faulty ground somewhere. Cvt ground appears to be okay but will check more thoroughly in a minute

[2SlickNick]

Found it, yes!!!!!!! I guess I had a bad connection in ground wire from battery to main wiring. I knew last year I should have used soldered it instead of elect tape. I will solder and start buggy tomorrow! Yes!!!
And thanks guys!

[2SlickNick]

I was not getting voltage anywhere, I should have known better. Always thinking the worst and in fact a simple fix.

[351mustanger]

The ground wire to the cvt cover is pretty lame imo. If you trace it back to the electrical box, you will find it has about 20 wires spliced to it. I think that wire should be a heavier gauge.

Slicknick, most of the time electrical problems stem from having a poor ground. Fuses and proper grounding are the first things to check.

[Johnny 5]

That is cool you found the problem, the ground is some times the last thing I check when checking electrical problems. I assume when there is no power it is a supply issue. Checking ground last has cost me a few hours of diag time in the past. But I am slowly learning myself when it comes to electrical.

[2SlickNick]

Originally Posted by Johnny 5

That is cool you found the problem, the ground is some times the last thing I check when checking electrical problems. I assume when there is no power it is a supply issue. Checking ground last has cost me a few hours of diag time in the past. But I am slowly learning myself when it comes to electrical.

same here...
Quoting one of my favorite movies " Stupid is as stupid does"