Enlighten me about...

[TheFauxFox]

ball joints. I know the BD joints are super strong, and i know there is a documented issue with the stocks, but if I'm doing some light trail riding with my spidy, how much better will the BDs serve me, and why? I understand it's "only" $30 more, but if it means $30 in my pocket or $30 towards something like plastic paneling materials, then I'll do it, of course, if its a safety hazard, thats another story.
So...

[Masteryota]

Take a close look at the stock joints. You will see that the joints are really only held in by the snap ring, and a thin casting of aluminum, er likely pock metal. There is really nothing to keep them in place once the snap ring or metal ring holding the snap ring in place fails. This becomes pretty dangerous pretty quickly.

On the subject of prices, $30 might seem like a savings, but in the long run, you might be buying more joints the replace the stock ones. Look at it this way, even if you break a set of the BD joints, you will get another set for free, less shipping I'm sure.

Another thing to consider is the sheet metal tabs that they sit in. Everyone has seen them fail, and if you choose to use the stock type joints, you are kinda stuck with the weak design till you upgrade. Might as well take the initial $$ hit up front and make sure it won't break again.

[TheFauxFox]

That's what I was thinking... Thanks for the reassurance. So, you think that even for light riding that it's still a hazard?

[Miamieddie]

I would make your ball joints more priority than your plastic panels. Just say in.

[x-bird]

Originally Posted by TheFauxFox

That's what I was thinking... Thanks for the reassurance. So, you think that even for light riding that it's still a hazard?

light riding once ol right foot gets happy, that goes away more and more CYA.

[TheFauxFox]

Originally Posted by Miamieddie

I would make your ball joints more priority than your plastic panels. Just say in.

They are definitely higher priority.

I am planning on purchasing the plastic with my points2shop cash (see my thread under the off topic area about points2shop). So far, I've earned $12 this week and I need to earn an additional $8 for the panels (getting 2 12x24 panels to make a good and center console thing).

Also considering getting some weatherproof nylon type fabric to make a roof. Any suggestions on here to buy/what fabric?

[Miamieddie]

Probably the same fabric they use on convertibles. Maybe

[Miamieddie]

I was thinking of sheet metal for a roof. And using those round stick on lights like the commercial. You stick it on the ceiling of the cab and depress it and the light comes on. Use 2 of them as a cab light. They run on AA batteries.

[2SlickNick]

Originally Posted by Miamieddie

I was thinking of sheet metal for a roof. And using those round stick on lights like the commercial. You stick it on the ceiling of the cab and depress it and the light comes on. Use 2 of them as a cab light. They run on AA batteries.

Sheet metal is probably the way to go. I did that. I did use my angle grinder and a ball pin hammer to help shape it. You could get away with tin snips and zip ties for securing.

http://www.buggymasters.com/forum/at...0&d=1379276589
You can see I used thin metal and zip ties too. No noise or rattling as long as you zip it tight. You can see where I did have this plastic paneling but it just doesn't look as good or protect like metal would. In my opinion.....

[Masteryota]

If you have some time and patience, I would try using a heavy nylon roof insert. A couple members here did this, and when done correctly, it looks good and last a long time. Basically you take a piece of fabric, fold over the edges 1" and sew them down to prevent unraveling, and then go to the hardware store and pick up one of those tarp repair kits, and grommets. The repair kit comes with the punch and die set for making the grommets permanent. Then you can zip tie them to the frame.

[TheFauxFox]

Originally Posted by Masteryota

If you have some time and patience, I would try using a heavy nylon roof insert. A couple members here did this, and when done correctly, it looks good and last a long time. Basically you take a piece of fabric, fold over the edges 1" and sew them down to prevent unraveling, and then go to the hardware store and pick up one of those tarp repair kits, and grommets. The repair kit comes with the punch and die set for making the grommets permanent. Then you can zip tie them to the frame.

That was my plan, but I might do some thin sheetmetal like the other guys said...it depends...

And as for the other guys, my only tool for working with metal is a dremel with a 1in (I think) cutting wheel. ironically i used it the other day to cut a notch in a stripped screw, so I know it works quite well on metal, I'll just have to find some REALLY thin stuff... I was looking at some stuff called Rhino Canvas on amazon, but I might look for some sheet metal to use!

[Masteryota]

Originally Posted by TheFauxFox

That was my plan, but I might do some thin sheetmetal like the other guys said...it depends...

And as for the other guys, my only tool for working with metal is a dremel with a 1in (I think) cutting wheel. ironically i used it the other day to cut a notch in a stripped screw, so I know it works quite well on metal, I'll just have to find some REALLY thin stuff... I was looking at some stuff called Rhino Canvas on amazon, but I might look for some sheet metal to use!

FWIW, if you are going to cut panels large enough for the roof and other sections, opt for a set if snips. The dremel discs won't hold up to that amount of cutting, ask me how I know. I had quite a few grenade on me just trimming some EMT a few months ago. You could also invest in an angle grinder like slicknick did, and make real quick work out it. BTW, HF has the best deals on cutting discs, again, ask me how I know, lol.

[TheFauxFox]

Haha, yota! I'm asking for an angle grinder for the holidays, so I can only hope (it's one of the least expensive things on my list [$25 from HF] so I can hope I'm getting one.)