New (to me) GY6 150cc Helix - Some ??s

[BrewCityMusic]

New to the Forum, I walked into a pretty clean ASW Helix 150cc the other day for a pretty sweet price, I believe ($200 and a 12-pack) ... The back story is that a buddy bought it new for his kids a few years ago, and after getting a flat tire it has sat in the back of his pole barn for about 2 years. I already had a tube for the tire, and I grabbed a battery, swapped out the bad gas and with just a little shot of the dreaded ether it fired right up.

At first, it would only stay running if You messed w the throttle, and it barely developed enough power to get around the circle drive, so I pulled the carb and WOW - what a mess, gunk, rust, etc. I went ahead and ordered a carb for it (I collect and build Golf Carts as a hobby, and I can't BELIEVE how cheap parts are for these, $24 for an entire carb? WOW - GY6 guys have it MADE, a carb for a golf cart costs half of what an entire ENGINE does for these, LOL) ... While I was at it, I picked up a coil and no-RL CDI box (should be here tomorrow) but now we get to the questions I have that hopefully some opinions would steer me on:

The cart is likely to be used by adults, so performance is a big area to deal with - I live at an old Ski Resort so I have a lot of great trails, but they also include a lot of incline. I think I jumped a bit fast ordering a stock CV carb, but that's OK for now to get her running - I'm assuming a 30mm would be a better move, but is the difference really THAT big? For s cheap as I got this, I figure I can afford to throw a few bucks at the CVT, etc to get her up to speed *so to speak* but I'd rather not throw good $ away so any pointers I could get would be greatly appreciated.

Second, the carb that's on there cleaned up fairly well, I didn't want to soak the body in the carb cleaner as I'm assuming there are a lot of seals, etc in there that as a newbie to these carbs I'd likely miss and damage - now it starts and runs fairly easily but as soon as I let off the gas it dies and it won't get over about 1500rpm. I'm guessing the new carb will fix this, but is there anything else I should be doing prior to swapping it? I ordered a new petcock (coming w the carb) and I have plenty of fuel line around to replace the vacuum lines, fuel lines, filter, etc prior to running it, and like I said I'm replacing the CDI and coil - am I missing anything obvious?

Lastly, the brake pads are pretty worn, but what's disconcerting is that the outer pad seems to like to "jump" out and bind against the caliper, defeating the brake. I have seen a question RE this same thing on a Helix all over the web, but the guy who seems to keep asking isn't getting any definitive responses to the question - I'm going to play with it today, but if anyone has any ideas I'd appreciate it, prob just order new pads though I would assume.

So what else should I do RE "Preventative Maintenance" prior to running this thing? Like I said, I would appreciate any pointers or tips, jopefully I can get this thing going soon and go shopping for another, LOL - these are the toys You just can't have ONE of, just like my Golf Cart addiction !!! Thanks, All

[x-bird]

if adults are going to ride, research what shocks others have used as replacements for the stockers. a decent set of fox atv shocks with the right spring rate will make a world of difference. Brakes suck on all of these buggies! Best route to go is to disassemble the calipers completely, do a light scotchbrite hone of the cylinder bores, replace the o-rings and flush and bleed the entire system. You'll find plenty of info here on how to reverse bleed them, which is the best way to do it.